Custom Car PC with GPS, M.Media, Wifi, ECU & Internet

[CheesyMong]

Hey mate can u also confirm the dimensions of the Lilliput including the bezel it came in is it 165 x 106mm...reason being is I want a screen that can auto switch to the reverse camera and the lilliput's cant do this hence why I have been looking at the linITX ones however the diminsions for that 1 are reported as 179W x 128H x 27D mm

See my links

http://store.mp3car.com/ProductDetails. ... =TechSpecs
http://linitx.com/viewproduct.php?prodid=12031
http://linitx.com/viewproduct.php?prodid=10949

What sort of space are we talking about in the AVO console what is the max size screen you reckon will fit.

A lot to ask its just hard to visualise without physically seeing the bits.

Cheers

Joel

[CheesyMong]

Update:

I tried the WOL with no success...could not get my other work laptop to work either so I'm not sure I'm doing it right.

Cheers

Joel

[coyote]

Don't know if you've seen this:

http://ssm.codeplex.com/Wiki/View.aspx? ... umentation

But it's a piece of software designed to take the SSM data and display it within a CarPC program like Centrafuse.

I haven't tried it, but a guy on the Gold Coast has it working with Centrafuse (see link from pictures page) and it looks like it could be useful for you.

[tehx]

Hey, the dimensions are as follows:

# The Lilliput in it's original case is: 186mm (W)x 127mm (H) x 38mm (D)

# The Subaru console from AVO is: 185mm (W) x 118mm (H) 39mm - (D), with the mounting bracket supplied to hold the LCD at the correct depth. If you don't use the spacer bracket its deep enough to fit a full double din head unit.

The max LCD viewing size would be that of the Subaru console from AVO above. To the left and right of the screen area, behind the in the AVO console, is about 10mm (20mm total) of space, then you hit the tubes for the air vents either side. Height wise you have about 5mm (10mm total) top and bottom.

There are a few mods on the forums for getting the Lilliput to switch on reverse: http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/lcd-dis ... amera.html and this one with ultrasonic sensor support: http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/rr-plugins/122393-rrpdc-roadrunner-park-distance-control-extension-plugin.html I was going to try something like this later.

I have also had problems getting the WOL to work on my EeePC 1002HA. Seems it is not supported from a BIOS level although the network card supports it. To configure the XP side of WOL follow the screen shots here: http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/hardware-development/131396-rj45-wake-link-relay-switch.html I also set my advanced power options to default & desktop when I tried this. The Eeepc only had an option to enable/disable the internal network card so I made sure this was enable. On other PC's you might be able to configure wake on link/lan in the network adaptor settings of your BIOS. One thing I have not tried is sending "Magic Packets' - a system wake-up packet, to the network card. I might play around with a Linux box or a router I have here and see if this will work.

You may also have an option to 'wake on resume' in your BIOS --> Advanced Power Management section. This can wake the PC when external power resumes. The 900 series EeePC has this option on the BIOS but not on the 1002HA that I have.

The .NET SSM project looks good but I have not been able to run it to date. The Tactrix cable is version 2.0 and SSM only supports version 1.3. A bit of a bugger that!

[GTB Liberty]

Hey, the dimensions are as follows:

# The Lilliput in it's original case is: 186mm (W)x 127mm (H) x 38mm (D)

# The Subaru console from AVO is: 185mm (W) x 118mm (H) 39mm - (D), with the mounting bracket supplied to hold the LCD at the correct depth. If you don't use the spacer bracket its deep enough to fit a full double din head unit.

Could you provide a link to the console - where you bought it? I couldn't seem to find it in the thread.

Also on the left hand side of the screen in the console there seems to be an indentation? What was its purpose?

EDIT - Found it http://www.avojdm.com/product_info.php?cPath=26_54_60&products_id=109.

[tehx]

Not sure of the reason for the indentation. The AVO site mentioned they were originally made for a particular brand of head unit - Kenwood maybe? The enclosure is too big for a 7" head unit, without a bezel of some kind , so this looks be hidden in their photo's.

I need to slightly slide the Lilliput left just to cover that bit. You only have about 1mm to 2mm to play with, shifting the Lilliput right or left so its q bit tricky getting everything to line up. Making a custom bezel and mounting the Lilliput in that would make it an exact fit but requires more time & work. For now I’m just playing around with the software and rest of the hardware to wake it up

I might revisit the console install once I have some more time yea. I still have the Lilliput bracket for mounting it outside the standard Lilliput case sitting around. This would make for the best looking install for sure. It does void the warranty on the Lilliput tho, removing it from it’s case.

[GTB Liberty]

Not sure of the reason for the indentation. The AVO site mentioned they were originally made for a particular brand of head unit - Kenwood maybe? The enclosure is too big for a 7" head unit, without a bezel of some kind , so this looks be hidden in their photo's.

I need to slightly slide the Lilliput left just to cover that bit. You only have about 1mm to 2mm to play with, shifting the Lilliput right or left so its q bit tricky getting everything to line up. Making a custom bezel and mounting the Lilliput in that would make it an exact fit but requires more time & work. For now I’m just playing around with the software and rest of the hardware to wake it up

I might revisit the console install once I have some more time yea. I still have the Lilliput bracket for mounting it outside the standard Lilliput case sitting around. This would make for the best looking install for sure. It does void the warranty on the Lilliput tho, removing it from it’s case.

Tehx - regardless mate - it looks excellent and has got me inspired. Congrats on the efforts so far.

[CheesyMong]

FYI I got this email from evoscan.

Hi Guys I need a cable for datalogging only, not interested in flashing the ECU and was wondering which cable if any would work with my Subaru Liberty/Legacy GT 2007

Will this cable work OpenPort 1.3D USB?

Cheers

Joel

Yes, EvoScan Software will work great with your vehicle.
And OpenPort 1.3D USB will also be good for your vehicle you can get it from here http://www.limitless.co.nz/cables

Anyone looking for a cheap Tactrix clone cable that is v1.3 which is what works with the current SSM plugin for centrafuse might want to consider this at $60 USD from memory.

Cheers

Joel

[CheesyMong]

How is the project coming along Tehx?

Have u sorted the magnetic relay?

Cheers

Joel

[Hobber]

Cubby parts arrived from AVO - crikey, there are a lot of bits I won't need!

I got the info panel relocation too - I can't do without my Fuel Endurance etc information

[CheesyMong]

Nice 1 the avo console and the screen are the bits I still need to order oh and looking at the USB DAB+ receiver

So far I have

EeePC = $600
EvoScan 1.3D Cable = Bargain $80 shipped
Centrafuse = $80
GPS USB Receiver = $50
Nokia Mic = $20
Car Charger = $20
Garmin Mobile PC + Aus Maps
EvoScan 2.6
SSM Plugin

Cheers

Joel

[tehx]

Hi Everyone,

It's great to see a few pplz giving this a go - the results are very rewarding! I have been travelling a bit over the past few weeks so I have not been able to post updates or do much work on the car. I spent the last past weekend on the finishing off the install but have some tweaking to do.

Update: I found quite a few bugs in the method of starting the eeePC from the ignition and have build my circuit on a bread board to iron them out. Once I have everything working I'll post a circuit.

Take a look at this circuit as it is the basis for my power on design: http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/user-innovations/75071-laptop-auto-power-turn-module.html

The first thing I found is that the eeePC does not always power up when you press the power button (eg. turn the ignition). I found that at the time you turn the ignition the EeePC gets external power at the same time the relay triggers the to turn it on. It would seem the EeePC has to have external power & stabilise for a second or two, before you try turn it on. I can also delay the external power so it is not powered until after the power button is pressed and this works fine. With this finding I used a resistor / capacitor (RC) circuit to delay the application of external power to the EeePC by 3 seconds from the time you turn the ignition. The timeline looks like this:

...|IGN ON|....
...|Relay PWR ON/BTN closes (1.5sec duration)|.........
............(wait 3 sec).........................................|Relay External PWR closes (duration = while IGN is on)........

Another RC circuit produces the 1.5 sec pulse that triggers the PWR button. This is a parallel RC circuit (produces a pulse of x duration) where as the one controlling the external power is a series RC circuit, which produces a delay. Google RC circuit for details. In the final design I will be replacing the RC circuits with a 555 (or 556) timer IC.

I also don't like the idea of having a relay across the USB port as in the circuit above. The first thing to note is that you should put a power diode (1N4004 to 1N4007) across the +ve and -ve terminals of the relay as back EMF into your USB port might, and over time probably will, damage the PC. A better idea is to use an optocoupler to drive the relay on the USB port. The 5 volts from the USB port will drive an optocoupler, which provides electrical isolation between the EeePC and relay circuit, and the optocoupler will drive the 5 volt relay.

The second problem I have with the circuit above is that when the EeePC gets external power the USB ports power up for about 5 seconds. This open’s the USB relay and the IGN trigger never gets to power on the PC. Delaying the external power by 3 seconds solves this problem too.

I installed the magnetic reed switch into the EeePC and this is working great!. To trigger the reed switch I used a 12v solenoid (an electro magnet) from Jaycar. It's the type that does not have a spring so nothing moves when it is triggered. If you are wondering what a solenoid is they are used in many applications including car central locking to lock/unlock your doors.

Hey Joel: where did you get your Nokia MIC? I need something like this for the bluetooth hands free. Also try RomRaider from OpenECU - this is a pretty good package for logging / gauges etc. I must try EvoScan too.

Just browsing the plug-in section of Centrafuse and there are some pretty awesome pluging’s:

* TPMS is a tyre pressure monitoring system that shows tyre temp and pressure. CarMP3.com has the USB hardware for $350USD
* BOM weather maps (need's data connection)
* Sync tool for synchronising folders over a network. Keen to try it out - I am using SureSync right now, its a great package BTW.
* Garmin Mobile PC plugin - allows Garmin to dock nicely with Centrafuse and automatically presses the 'Agree' button on loading. Also has a great on-screen keyboard for entering addresses etc.
* Track/timing plugin which has maps of Sandown, Bathurst etc & a generic 1/4 mile. You can use this to time laps or do touring events.
* Scribble pad for taking notes on the run

I have also had some issues with WinXP hibernate. A BSOD from the bluetooth stack & the occasional crash coming out of hibernate. An external PWR switch is really a must in your PWR circuit above as there are times when you need to hold down the PWR button and hard reset the PC. A small price to pay for such awesome functionality tho.

I believe Centrafuse v3.0 (soon to be released) will run much better than v2.0 on WinXP Embedded (WinXPe). Im keen to try WinXPe if I have the time. You will need quite a bit of testing development with this as almost all the drivers are stripped out of WinXPe and much work is required to load them separately. This includes everything from Motherboard, SATA, bluetooth, network etc. If anyone is keen to go this path plz PIM me and we can work on this together hey! It will be no easy task.

A couple of things on the car install process. Have a think about what cables you need to run, before you embark on pulling the dash / console apart as you are bound to have it in parts a few times. For me these are:
* PWR to the PC
* IGN to the PC / Relay circuit
* Separate momentary switch to power / hard reset the EeePC
* VGA
* Audio to your MAC / Car AMP
* MIC from your PC to a spot above the drivers head for mobile phone / voice control
* USB: I ran 1 cable from under the drivers seat (where the PC is) to the console where the USB screen is. From here I installed a 12v powered USB Hub. This is because you need quite a few USB ports up front of the car. One for each of the following:
-- the Lilliput Touch Screen
-- Keyboard in the glove box
-- Tactrix OBDII under the dash
-- GPS which I installed behind the Lilliput in the dash (great location for reception BTW)
-- USB stick / IPOD access which I installed next to the cig lighter, behind the flip down cover, below the Macintosh.
On the EeePC itself two USB ports are used: the one mentioned for the above and another for the Relay PWR circuit.
I also ran an A/V cable to the Lilliput and put a socket in the centre console so I can plug in an Ext DVD player or Game Console later on.

Quite a bit of cabling so give it some thought & layout your cables on the ground before you run them. You can then loom them up - I used flexible PVC conduit to enclose all the cables to and from the PC to the dash. This will protect the cables and make the install professional & neat.

Under the drivers seat there is a small cut in the carpet (from factory) where you can pull cables out. I pulled the centre console out and used a coat-hanger to pull all the cables down from the console, past the drivers seat -under the carpet. I also found it useful to store in my electric seat memory a setting where the seat is far forward and another for comfortable seating. You will be moving the seat back and forth quite a bit to access & install the PC. With just 1 button press the seat moves fully forward & I can gain access to everything - pretty neat hey!

[tehx]

Want a custom CarPC built and installed? Know someone who might? Please see my post in the For Sale forum: Custom CarPC - M.Media, NAV, WiFi, Bluetooth etc.

Given the overwhelming response to this project I though I might embark on some research to see if it is feasible to build & install these things. I’m really enjoying the CarPC & look forward to seeing one of these pimp your ride too.

There are quite a few of us that are just too busy to dedicate weeks to configure, test & install both hardware and software. Others are just not skilled in the areas of Electronics and IT – just like I’m no doctor, cheff or pilot. Although sometimes I feel like a pilot zipping along in my Lib, touch screen & electronic gadgets feeding me real time data & flashing pretty lights

Your thoughts, ideas & suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

M@

[CheesyMong]

Hi Tehx thanks for the update that was great.

Couple of points/questions

1. How RU mounting the laptop with velcro etc???
2. I'll probaly invest in a kensington lock and loop it around the drivers seat to secure the laptop
3. With the Relay circuit u r creating is there any soldering etc done inside the laptop or you haven't go that far yet?
4. How much for you to make me 1 when you are done
5 I got the mic from http://www.techbuy.com.au for $25 del Nokia Replacement Microphone for HF-2-GO Car Kits needs to have an adaptor or plug changed to fit the PC mic port
6 I am running the GMPC plugin works a treat
7 There is another plugin that looks interesting http://forums.fluxmedia.net/plugin-deve ... gbook.html
8. Take a look at this USB cig lighter http://store.mp3car.com/Automotive_Mari ... om-040.htm
9. I am going to install this camera http://shop.gizmosis.com.au/productcart ... -18p70.htm
10. Where did u get the 12v USB hub from?
11 Have u had any issues with the SSM plugin, on full power It is losong connection and I am getting a "danger to manifold" error LOL which is just the sign it has lost connection

Keep up the great work.

Cheers

Joel

[tehx]

Hey Joel,

I just purchased a Nokia Mic, cheers for the link! Some answers to Q's

1. I'm for Velcro - hey did you notice that there is a recess in the carpet / floor under the drivers seat that is almost identical in width & length to the EeePC? My PC is just sitting in that recess right now, upside down and fan vent facing forward so the cooling vents are fully exposed.

2. Ebay'd one of these, think that’s going to be a good solution.

3. Yes, some very careful soldering to the PWR switch which is a surface mount device. I used a multimeter to test connectivity of the pins - see the PIC below for details of what to solder. Use a fine (surface mount) solder tip and as little solder as possible for a clean weld. Tin your wire first, clean your solder iron tip real good, then lube it up with just a little fresh solder & quickly solder the wire to the pin, before your flux burns off.
To get to the switch I had to play around a bit & work out how it is put together, this is what I found:
- Remove all the screws on the back of the EeePC
- Remove the battery and all screws behind it
- Remove the HDD and all screws behind that
- Remove the cover where the RAM is installed and pull off the two WiFi antennas from the add-on board.
- The keyboard can be removed by using a flat head screw driver to push in the 4 clips holding it in place - closest to the LCD (near the F1-12 keys). They are just tiny little things. You can then pull the keyboard out by lifting the top first.
- Remove the keyboard connector/ribbon cable by using a flat screwdriver and levering up the white clip. It leavers up just like a car boot lid would and you can then slide the ribbon cable out. Do the same for the two connectors on the far right near the LCD.
- Remove the ribbon cable to the LCD (top left) by pushing the connector out, a little bit, a corner at a time, until it is completely free.
- Remove all the screws holding the faceplate onto the motherboard
- Now you should be able to access the switch

Note that in the photo's I placed the magnetic reed switch on top of the WiFi plugin-board. I moved this later, just to the left, as there is foil RF shielding on the RAM / WiFi cover you removed. This will shield the reed switch a little so you need to install it where there is no foil shielding.

Also, you need to remove the bezel around the screen (screws behind the rubber plugs). Get the bezel off by pulling it from the inside area, closest to the LCD, not the outer area - a corner at a time. Now remove the rare-earth magnet in the lower left corner - its silver. When the lid is colsed it will not power up with that magnet in place.

4. Around $50 - case, relays, 556 timer IC, caps, resistors, plugs & sockets, heat shrink. I just need to perfect mine first, will need a couple of weeks due to work eating my mon-fri and uni assignments busting my weekends.

5-8. Cheers for the info, looks good yea. Do you plan to use the composite video I/P on the touch-screen and trigger/switch the touch-screen from your reverse sensor? You could use a USB camera and the centrafuse camera option but not sure how to trigger this automatically when reversing. There is no doubt a plugin / method to to so - just needs some researching.

9. 12v USB Hub - MP3Car.com. I had one I was not using that I got off eBay some time ago. It had a DC 12v plug pack so I used a regulated 12v supply to power it. The power supply was just a cig lighter adaptor I also had, gutted the circuit board and put it in one of those little jiffy boxes from Jaycar.

10. I have the tactrix v2.0 cable so no support for SSM right now.