Member Profile - It's a nice day for a white wagon!

[bigBADbenny]

Sensational update
I’m definitely taking note of your “if I could do it again” points...

With your Pi and can setup, what’s the general schema?
Is it seperate to the ecu can?

[applegeek897]

Epic goodness as always!

[HardwareBoB]

Sensational update
I’m definitely taking note of your “if I could do it again” points...

With your Pi and can setup, what’s the general schema?
Is it seperate to the ecu can?

Pi and the arduino are both on the high speed CAN with the ECU - I put data on a couple of extra PIDs from the arduino and read it.

Picked up the right angle I needed:


Installed them (was actually pretty easy, aside from being too lazy to jack up the car so I was squishing in under it while it was ramps)



Went for a test drive... WHOOPS.



... That's not 22.6psi, that's just where the sensor ends. I've already got a 3 bar GM sensor handy, but I'm thinking a 3.5 bar sensor might be best for safety. That's also nearly maxing out the 76mm ID MAF, and 107% IDC isn't really in the 'safe' zone.

That's possibly about 30psi, and making big power, nothing blew up which is nice. I changed the hoses to be direct from the turbo, bypassing the EBCS entirely . Now makes a conservative 13.2 psi but it's much, MUCH better. The old gates leaked slightly at idle, but the GFB gates seal perfectly and are much better.

I have snapped more of the stupid studs off the fuel tank, so I'll be draining the tank, filling it with some water, drilling out the holes, putting in some bolts, and the using epoxy fuel tank filler to hold the bolts in, then draining the water and refilling the tank.

Once I've got all the maintenance items sorted out, time for a final tune!

[bigBADbenny]

Keep it up, man!
H20 more convenient than a CO2 purge?

Apologies, but is the ecu getting data via the pi, or the other way around?

I’m interested as I’d like to do something vaguely similar, eg get steering wheel angle or wheel slip abs data direct from the canbus outputted from a pi, as either 0-5v or eg switched ground for use with a dccd controller

[HardwareBoB]

Keep it up, man!
H20 more convenient than a CO2 purge?

Apologies, but is the ecu getting data via the pi, or the other way around?

I’m interested as I’d like to do something vaguely similar, eg get steering wheel angle or wheel slip abs data direct from the canbus outputted from a pi, as either 0-5v or eg switched ground for use with a dccd controller

Water is free from the tap, and I can leave it to vent for a while, especially with this hot weather, it won't be a problem.

The ECU doesn't get any data - it doesn't know about the extra PIDs. If you wanted that data for a DCDD controller you're better off using an arduino to do it - the pi is a 3.3V system. Attach it to an MCP2515 and you're done. Not even much code to do it.

In my system, I'm sending and recieving from the arduino (recieving to run the dash, sending all the extra data), and recieving only on the pi. If I ever finish the full setup, the pi may also transmit the time so it can be synced to the clock.

[bigBADbenny]

Thanks mate.
It’s staggering what you’ve achieved, and most areas are a definite inspiration for my own goals

Congratulations on the new twins

[HardwareBoB]

wow. I haven't updated for way, way too long.

So late last year my car developed a problem - it started missing on cylinder number 1, but ONLY when not in boost, so I more or less had to boost everywhere. This is the same cylinder that had the spark plug thread "repaired" with a helicoil.

This resulted in a speeding fine while I was on my way to a photo shoot. The photoshoot went well, and they turned out amazingly -



Full album - https://imgur.com/a/WW6gCfl

also this hilariousness:



So anyway, back to the issue - I suspected timing -



I removed all the timing covers and found ... nothing. It was perfect.

Some ID1300 injectors came up and I figured.. hey, why not, so I whipped these out:


and put these in:


At the same time I also upgraded to a 3 bar omni map sensor.

I obviously also adjusted the tune for both of these.

None of this made any difference.

I pulled stuff apart:



I even scoped the injectors (don't do this - it's a huge pain)


I removed the spark plugs - and the helicoil came with the spark plug, and it was fucked. It was also not entirely in the block. I researched alternatives.


50 from repco, if I remember correctly! This is the proper fix.


Undo the engine mounts, jack the engine riiiiiight up :


and you can get in straight to the #1 plug hole:


Pack the tap with grease. Run it in. Remove it. Clean it. Pack it with grease. repeat. repeat.

Terrifying but finally successful!



Stil the same.



So I'm probably 20+ hours of trouble shooting in at this point, and it makes no sense.

Fuck it, time to buy some unnnecessary dress up parts


This needed a SHITLOAD of work with a caramel wheel


But the results are TOTALLY worth it.

[HardwareBoB]

Ok.
So, I am sick of this at this point, so I drop it off to the experts and Got it Rex.



They spend 20+ hours on it, and test literally EVERYTHING, including a replacement ECU, and driving the spark plug from another car. Aleck recommends pulling the engine because there must be something wrong with the head.

In anticipation of that I grab an engine with a dead bottom end.



I realise I can't put it on the stand because I don't have bolts, so one quick trip to the bolt shop later..


Wait. This toolbox is shit. time to upgrade


Wait, that's only half a toolbox!


Ok, let's pull this down


Oh yeah this is absolutely dead - The rod moved all around on the crank, this engine was absolutely toast, despite 'running when wrecked'


Oh, and everything is full of metal. Fantastic. Not a dealbreaker fortunately, I just have to clean EVERYTHING thoroughly.


Time to rip the engine out. By the magic of the internet:


Just leave this hanging around


Pull the clutch off ... and the pilot bearing comes with. W T F. Thankfully I was pulling this anyway - it looks like it wasn't enough of a press fit and has come loose. I took this to the machine shop to have an insert machined and pressed in before it does anymore damage.


Another casualty - my Ryobi work light. RIP light, 2018-2019. You will be missed (but not for long because I bought another one)


Stripped a bolt hole, which is how it goes with a subaru block.


I also accidentally ripped my AFM plug off the loom after it got caught on the motor when removing it. I sourced a plug with a decent amount of wiring on it from a wreck and will join it further down.


OK, head off! Can see some minor FOD, but the spark plug actually looks not too bad - I'm impressed with my in-the-bay repair.


Oh shit. here he come. dat boy. Broken valve spring.


Pull it out:


Ben from Benny's Custom Works reached out and offered to source me some Kelford valve springs and retainers - i said yeah let's do that, and I got a whole new set. I also hit up partsouq and a few other places, as well as my parts stash and prepared everything I'll need. I also ordered a subaru specific valve spring compressor, because I got sick of my stupid around-the-head one, which at time of writing has not arrived.


The previous owner of this engine did NOT change the oil - my head on the left.


Cam journals are a bit scored - but not too bad. Will get the machine shop to give them a polish.


Off they go. As of writing everything is still at the machine shop



Got a few other things to go on the car while I'm at it - front under brace, steering rack bushings, 6MT reverse sensor, will also make a shield for the external gates, got some silicon radiator hoses, as well as the kap industries catch can.

Hopefully it'll all be back together soon so I can finally have it working properly. I can dream, right?

[marcus.bspec]

Your Profile is a great read Matt!

[jamescd]

Now we'll never see the end result

Hopefully the new owner can manage a forum post every couple of years