COILLL SHOPPPINNGGGG

[FishJr]

Soooo, deciding which coils i want to go with! I have been at a constant battle with which coils to get. I am tossing up with either Tein Flexs (which are used by multiple people with similar wheel setup) or the BC racing coils (which are known for great product). I am more worried which will suit my wheel setup (18x9.5+38 with 235/40R18)Im worried that i might need camber arms with that much tire etc, Brother is claiming that i will need a camber arm

[Adrian2627]

To do what you want to do you'll need to run coilovers to maintain some form of damping and control. Lowering your car to the level you are talking about using coils on your standard shocks is going to seriously compromise the shocks and therefore your handling and braking. Coilovers will allow you to lower the car while maintaining more of the dampers stroke allowing the damper to do it's job. Coilovers will also allow you to raise the car for roadworthy when you get defected by the cops. Just be aware that by lowering to extremes, and fitting aggressive wheel/tyre combos, you are essentially reducing the suspension's ability to do it's job and therefore reducing the turning, braking, and stopping capabilities of your car. You'll need to drive accordingly and be prepared to take what comes.

[FishJr]

To do what you want to do you'll need to run coilovers to maintain some form of damping and control. Lowering your car to the level you are talking about using coils on your standard shocks is going to seriously compromise the shocks and therefore your handling and braking. Coilovers will allow you to lower the car while maintaining more of the dampers stroke allowing the damper to do it's job. Coilovers will also allow you to raise the car for roadworthy when you get defected by the cops. Just be aware that by lowering to extremes, and fitting aggressive wheel/tyre combos, you are essentially reducing the suspension's ability to do it's job and therefore reducing the turning, braking, and stopping capabilities of your car. You'll need to drive accordingly and be prepared to take what comes.

Thanks for the info i didnt know that they affected that much! But reackon ill need camber arms on that tyre/wheel combo? i have a 06 lib/legacy and cant be bothered wasting money on Coils PLUS camber Arms. Im bit of a noob by the way

[WheelZ]

I run BC BR's on 50% dampening, pretty low and i couldn't be happier with them.

[Adrian2627]

This is why such extreme lowering and wheel/tyre combos are illegal. The suspension geometry built in to the car is designed to be a balance between performance, comfort, and cost. The engineers put a lot of time, effort and $$$ in to finding the best compromise given the restraints of the platform.

However, it is a compromise and can be fine tuned to a more specific need. Lowering can improve the handling of the car but going to the extreme will destroy it if not done properly. With the Liberty you don't have a lot to play with without investing good money. Sure you can buy some King Spring Supa Lows and drop it 50mm but the standard shocks, be them Kyb or Bilstein, will not be supple in the end of their stroke which means people end up with a hard, choppy ride that compromises bump complience and traction. To do it properly you'll need to correct the geometry of the suspension and fit dampers designed for shorter travel. As a minimum you'll want decent coilovers with adjustable height and damping, a caster adjustment kit as Suburus understeer badly when lowered, a roll centre adjustment to bring the roll centre back to where it should be, and then a good alignment by someone who knows what they are doing to bring everything to within spec. You may need to add rear camber adjustment, either a full arm kit or just upper bushes, as well. From there you could need body work, rolling lips, pulling/pumping guards, to prevent rubbing. It can be done. Mick's(Dr20t) car is rung the same spec wheels but I can guarantee he's put a lot of time, effort, and, $$$, in to it.

To keep the car legal you can only go down about 35mm Max as you need to maintain 2/3 of you wheel travel. Your wheel offset can go no more than +45 as you are allowed a track increase of only 26mm and your tyre diameter can't change by more than 12% as this will effect braking and turning. You can make changes out side these parameters and be legal but that when it gets expensive as it needs to be engineered.

I'm not saying don't do it I'm just trying to help you understand what's involved in doing it properly because to be brutally honest at 18 there's a good chance you've only been driving for a year or two and to start out in a cat that is compromised for the sake of fashion isn't going to help things. Sorry for such a long post and it's really only a very basic summary but you are asking questions and I wanted to give you more than just a "don't do it" answer.

[fedaykin]

Adrian wasted effort mate, he's going to do it regardless. He already has the wheels (which don't fit his car).

Second hand BC will suffice.

[HardwareBoB]

Adrian wasted effort mate, he's going to do it regardless. He already has the wheels (which don't fit his car).

Second hand BC will suffice.

You can fit 235/40/18 on a 9.5 +38, but you need to do it agressively roll and pull the guards, and get rear arms. and if you slam it, you'll need to go crazy and it will suck.

[FishJr]

This is why such extreme lowering and wheel/tyre combos are illegal. The suspension geometry built in to the car is designed to be a balance between performance, comfort, and cost. The engineers put a lot of time, effort and $$$ in to finding the best compromise given the restraints of the platform.

However, it is a compromise and can be fine tuned to a more specific need. Lowering can improve the handling of the car but going to the extreme will destroy it if not done properly. With the Liberty you don't have a lot to play with without investing good money. Sure you can buy some King Spring Supa Lows and drop it 50mm but the standard shocks, be them Kyb or Bilstein, will not be supple in the end of their stroke which means people end up with a hard, choppy ride that compromises bump complience and traction. To do it properly you'll need to correct the geometry of the suspension and fit dampers designed for shorter travel. As a minimum you'll want decent coilovers with adjustable height and damping, a caster adjustment kit as Suburus understeer badly when lowered, a roll centre adjustment to bring the roll centre back to where it should be, and then a good alignment by someone who knows what they are doing to bring everything to within spec. You may need to add rear camber adjustment, either a full arm kit or just upper bushes, as well. From there you could need body work, rolling lips, pulling/pumping guards, to prevent rubbing. It can be done. Mick's(Dr20t) car is rung the same spec wheels but I can guarantee he's put a lot of time, effort, and, $$$, in to it.

To keep the car legal you can only go down about 35mm Max as you need to maintain 2/3 of you wheel travel. Your wheel offset can go no more than +45 as you are allowed a track increase of only 26mm and your tyre diameter can't change by more than 12% as this will effect braking and turning. You can make changes out side these parameters and be legal but that when it gets expensive as it needs to be engineered.

I'm not saying don't do it I'm just trying to help you understand what's involved in doing it properly because to be brutally honest at 18 there's a good chance you've only been driving for a year or two and to start out in a cat that is compromised for the sake of fashion isn't going to help things. Sorry for such a long post and it's really only a very basic summary but you are asking questions and I wanted to give you more than just a "don't do it" answer.

Thanks heaps Man! You haven't wasted ANYTIME! I get what you are saying and I'm willing to put the $$$ into it as I want this to run as smooth as I can. So thank you so much! I guess I'll be saving a bit more for a draw mods! Cheers heaps man this has helped me get a grip

[Adrian2627]

Good luck. I hope it goes well.

I'm all for improving a car as everything about them is compromised to suit the average buyer but it needs to be done properly so you can enjoy the car. No point spending $$$ if it's a bitch to drive.