Member Profile - Peadya100

[peadya100]

keen to see the install adam, this is next on my list, just wanting to see what turns out better, a cusco unit or the grimmspeed!

I think it depends on whether you get a real cusco one which is many hundreds, or the fake ebay cusco ones. The eBay ones are rubbish.
My (and Alexei's) tuner feels so strongly that only the good ones work that he doesn't even believe our $370 one is good enough to work. But they'll work well enough for my needs I reckon.

[peadya100]

Those style ones do seem to get a fair bit of a bashing for feeding moisture and sludge back into the engine. Look at the more expensive ones, quite a few of them have coolant flow going to it too to try evaporate the crap off rather than sending it back in.

Could be just typical internet lies trying to get us buying the top of the line ones though.

Yeah I've seen that too.
however that sludge is a product of the oil, so I'd imagine it's not the end of the world if some of it gets back into the engine. Regular oil changes would clear it anyway.
you'd have to spend huge money to get one that has a coolant flow... even the 800 ones I've seen don't have that.

[THE SpecB]

Those style ones do seem to get a fair bit of a bashing for feeding moisture and sludge back into the engine. Look at the more expensive ones, quite a few of them have coolant flow going to it too to try evaporate the crap off rather than sending it back in.

Could be just typical internet lies trying to get us buying the top of the line ones though.

I have also read this online.

Get what you pay for ? This might be the case here.

Good work Adam for doing this but is this really needed?

[alexeiwoody]

Those style ones do seem to get a fair bit of a bashing for feeding moisture and sludge back into the engine. Look at the more expensive ones, quite a few of them have coolant flow going to it too to try evaporate the crap off rather than sending it back in.

Could be just typical internet lies trying to get us buying the top of the line ones though.

Yeah I've seen that too.
however that sludge is a product of the oil, so I'd imagine it's not the end of the world if some of it gets back into the engine. Regular oil changes would clear it anyway.
you'd have to spend huge money to get one that has a coolant flow... even the 800 ones I've seen don't have that.

Not sure where people are reading about the sludge and coolant AOS. I've also seen sludge threads. Here's my take on it:

1. The sludge that people see in catch cans is not the same stuff that gets developed in the GS AOS. Catch cans trap the oil permanently and tend to 'create' the sludge out of it, a bit like a self fulfilling prophecy.

2. The GS AOS just strips the oil out of the air and drips it back in.

3. I have seen some white sludge in my GS AOS, but I also run on E85. E85 is often thought to cause water condensation in the oil (E85 attracts water and it 100% gets in the oil, so far the theory makes sense)

-Accepted level of water % in my current engine oil is 2% max.
-After 5,000 kms - no water in my oil, not even 0.5%.
-After 10,000kms with included multiple dyno sessions, drag runs etc + E85 and the AOS - my oil tested at 1% water condensation. 10,000kms is double/triple what most forum gurus advise to use oil on E85.

As far as my own setup goes - CONS: there is no evidence to suggest any sort of substantiated drawback in terms of sludge or water vapour - AND PROS: my intake, turbo inlet, TMIC and TB hoses are spotless.

Just my 2 cents,
Cheers

[andy_mac]

There's the coolant one i was thinking of, probably just complete overkill really
http://perrinperformance.com/i-14908570 ... x-sti.html

Definately agree that most of the crap in catchcans is from just stagnating for weeks/months, and then the owner believing it would look just like that if it went straight back in the filler.
The reality is the oil i've had in my intercoolers over the years has never been sludgy so why would the oil picked up before it be sludgy.

[peadya100]

I don't think it's picking up sludge oil. I think it's a result of the oil or part of the oil building up in the baffle. As you said earlier though, the example shown online would be an extreme case and most likely E85. But if you're changing the oil every 5000-6000kms then a simple wipe would clear it.
I'm not running E85 though, so I'd be happy to report back with how it looks at 5000kms.

[alexeiwoody]

There's the coolant one i was thinking of, probably just complete overkill really
http://perrinperformance.com/i-14908570 ... x-sti.html

Definately agree that most of the crap in catchcans is from just stagnating for weeks/months, and then the owner believing it would look just like that if it went straight back in the filler.
The reality is the oil i've had in my intercoolers over the years has never been sludgy so why would the oil picked up before it be sludgy.

That actually looks really cool!

I like the extra surface area this has, but not sure about the coolant warmth reducing the sludge. The amount of visible sludge I got in my GS AOS is a few mL, taking up less volume than a small ball bearing, compared to the 5L of oil we're running, not an issue.

I imagine the coolant heat would 'help' to prevent the condensation of the vapour, but it's not hot enough to completely evaporate water once it condenses. Our operating coolant sits between 80-90 deg C and water boils at 100...The rest of the heat would come from the blow by air itself (not even sure how hot it would be?), which the GS AOS also takes advantage of.

Assuming that the blow by air is over 100 deg C (as it's carrying water vapour?), this very air will heat up the inside of the AOS arguably faster than engine coolant warms up. And the inner AOS walls are going to be coated with oil to prevent water from sticking to them...so the vapour never really gets a chance to get to anything in either AOS, perhaps only in the rubber breather lines (which is where my sludge was) - which are not heated by coolant anyway.

Not a 100% scientific thorough analysis, but I'm quite confident the difference would be very very small if any.

Note: also not sure why the coolant heated part is at the bottom, because as already pointed out - not hot enough to vaporise any already liquid water. If you're going to heat anything, heat the walls of the can.

[peadya100]

Just did some reading. Turns out it's cold weather that causes the sludge. All the American forums reporting on the sludge said it only starts to happen when driving at 30°F and colder. That's below 0°C which isn't an issue in Sydney.

[peadya100]

Had a few wins this week.

Finally got the correct bracket to mount my belt/pulley cover. Quite a basic mod and not hugely aesthetically pleasing, but i like having the belts covered.

Ordered a new clip for my headlight washer cover from partsouq... it arrived and was a complete kit including the washer cover, the clip and the plastic hose piece that holds it all together. Bonus!! Cant tell you how nice it feels to finally have that cover back on!!

Thanks to a few members i was able to track down the bonnet scoop i wanted from the states. It arrived today and ill do a test fit on the weekend. It looks like the picture included.. a slightly bigger opening (approx 10mm taller) to force more air over the cooler.

Now i still have the air/oil separator to install and ill hopefully be done for a while....... famous last words!

[shav]

its the little things that count. Nice job Adam

[peadya100]

So it's head gasket time for me... Yay!
I think I'm going to upgrade the turbo while I'm at it.
So that means 2 things. I'll have a VF52 with only 12000kms on it for sale, and I'm looking for advice for a nice upgrade. Dont want anything too big, just a slight upgrade like a blouch 380... open to suggestions

[KiDo_Tuning]

So it's head gasket time for me... Yay!
I think I'm going to upgrade the turbo while I'm at it.
So that means 2 things. I'll have a VF52 with only 12000kms on it for sale, and I'm looking for advice for a nice upgrade. Dont want anything too big, just a slight upgrade like a blouch 380... open to suggestions

XT380 or XT440
Fit a fuel pressure regulator, run 60psi rail pressure(yay for upgraded fuel pump) and scale injectors at 660cc instead of 550cc.
Make an easy 240Kw

[ferret89]

So it's head gasket time for me... Yay!
I think I'm going to upgrade the turbo while I'm at it.
So that means 2 things. I'll have a VF52 with only 12000kms on it for sale, and I'm looking for advice for a nice upgrade. Dont want anything too big, just a slight upgrade like a blouch 380... open to suggestions

That sucks Adam, seems like there are quite a few of us with issues the past 6 months or so...

I may be interested in your VF52 when you get rid of it though

[peadya100]

Not sure id want to push 240wkw on an auto gearbox... I want to avoid building a box at all costs haha

My tuner doesn't want me to upgrade the turbo if I stick with the cast pistons... but that's an extra 1500-2000k to upgrade pistons and rods depending on brand.

Ill see what my fund manager (wife) allows... but I may just be doing gaskets, bearings, rings and head studs to keep the money down. In that case ill have to stick with the VF52. But if I sell it youre first on the list!!

[dr20t]

Sorry to hear Adam

However unless building bottom end I would stick with the vf52 and max it out