Member Profile - Manaz

[shav]

I fitted my Forge BPV today.

It came with the blue (23psi - something higher) spring installed, I swapped it for the yellow (15psi - 23psi) spring.

Fitting wasn't an issue, nor should it be.

In good news for those with PW TMICs, it is shorter than the TurboSmart Kompact by about 5mm - enough that it would completely clear the bonnet I suspect (regardless, mine was notched already to give the Kompact breathing room).

I haven't driven the car since the change (I did it this evening after I got home), I will know how it is behaving tomorrow.

One thing for anyone with an aftermarket BPV/BOV to note - the Forge requires that you have the OEM BPV gasket (the Kompact has its own, which is different). I keep all my OEM parts, so I had mine at hand, but if you've thrown yours out, you'll need to deal with this.

Thank for the tips there Rob. If I ever get to change my BOV I'll be looking for something that will clear the bonnet hopefully.

[Manaz]

Thank for the tips there Rob. If I ever get to change my BOV I'll be looking for something that will clear the bonnet hopefully.

The Forge would be fine for this. The biggest issue now though is the expense - mine was over $350 by the time I had it shipped from overseas (also noting our shitty foreign exchange rates at present). This won't change unless a local distributor picks them up and gets better wholesale pricing and shipping efficiency by bringing multiple items in at once...

[shav]

Thank for the tips there Rob. If I ever get to change my BOV I'll be looking for something that will clear the bonnet hopefully.

The Forge would be fine for this. The biggest issue now though is the expense - mine was over $350 by the time I had it shipped from overseas (also noting our shitty foreign exchange rates at present). This won't change unless a local distributor picks them up and gets better wholesale pricing and shipping efficiency by bringing multiple items in at once...

whoa. Lets hope they come down otherwise I'll just replace the OEM version with another of the same.

[kiwigene]

Thank for the tips there Rob. If I ever get to change my BOV I'll be looking for something that will clear the bonnet hopefully.

The Forge would be fine for this. The biggest issue now though is the expense - mine was over $350 by the time I had it shipped from overseas (also noting our shitty foreign exchange rates at present). This won't change unless a local distributor picks them up and gets better wholesale pricing and shipping efficiency by bringing multiple items in at once...

whoa. Lets hope they come down otherwise I'll just replace the OEM version with another of the same.

If you've got the standard TMIC (or I'm guessing even the Mishimoto...) you can still have a "larger" but inexpensive BPV/BOV without it hitting the bonnet.
You might have to trim the engine cover though. See here - images half way down:

viewtopic.php?f=68&t=19094&start=15

You even commented on this Shav

[shav]

If you've got the standard TMIC (or I'm guessing even the Mishimoto...) you can still have a "larger" but inexpensive BPV/BOV without it hitting the bonnet.
You might have to trim the engine cover though. See here - images half way down:

viewtopic.php?f=68&t=19094&start=15

You even commented on this Shav

Ah right, thanks Gene. Now I remember. haha

[bigBADbenny]

I think mine has the blue spring installed as recommended by the previous owner.
It's fine apparently at 15-18psi max...
I used gasket paper to seal it to the stock tmic.

At any rate hit it with soapy water spray whilst your assistant revs the car to check for telltale bubbles.

[alexeiwoody]

If you've got the standard TMIC (or I'm guessing even the Mishimoto...) you can still have a "larger" but inexpensive BPV/BOV without it hitting the bonnet.
You might have to trim the engine cover though. See here - images half way down:

viewtopic.php?f=68&t=19094&start=15

You even commented on this Shav

Never had to rim engine cover with the AVO tmic and TS kompact bov. I'm assuming the avo and mishimoto are very similar in size, if not exactly the same. Also guessing the kompact might be shorter than the bov pictured, could explain the difference.

Finally, have not had issues running kompact bov with PW tmic, just needed to trim the PW air guide. If people want to spend $$ fixing these things - that's their business, but from my experience (and at least 2 others with the exact setup) - there are no major issues with this combination.

[Manaz]

I re-clayed and then sealed (with Duragloss) the car this weekend.

One thing it's shown up is that the paint needs lots of correction/fixes - there's several spots where the clearcoat has worn/been scratched off, and quite a bit of marking in the clearcoat in other places.

Sure does feel slick though.

[KiDo_Tuning]

Finally, have not had issues running kompact bov with PW tmic, just needed to trim the PW air guide. If people want to spend $$ fixing these things - that's their business, but from my experience (and at least 2 others with the exact setup) - there are no major issues with this combination.

Oddly enough Process West suggested it needs cutting on Peady's car. The BOV vacuum port hits the bonnet and it ends up breaking off the vacuum nipple.
Obviously manufacturing process allows some leeway on some cars setups if its 3mm shorter for the BOV flange adaptor.

Like always... measure 3 times, cut once when needed

[alexeiwoody]

Finally, have not had issues running kompact bov with PW tmic, just needed to trim the PW air guide. If people want to spend $$ fixing these things - that's their business, but from my experience (and at least 2 others with the exact setup) - there are no major issues with this combination.

Oddly enough Process West suggested it needs cutting on Peady's car. The BOV vacuum port hits the bonnet and it ends up breaking off the vacuum nipple.

I did write that the air guide needs trimming? It's right there in your quote

Never heard or seen the Bov vac nipple break off from this issue. Got some pics?

The highest point of the Bov is the bolt attaching the vac nipple to the Bov body. If it comes into contact with the bonnet/air guide - the bolt takes all the stress directly down the centre of the bov. This is called compression load. The metal that makes up the bov is well resistant to compression forces.

The only way we'd see the nipple break off is - if the bov is at such and angle that the vac nipple is higher than the top bolt.

However the PW TMIC holds the bov almost vertically, thus the vac line/nipple should not be touching anything, or we'd see the rubber vac line get cut through by the contact with the bonnet over time (rubber between two colliding metal surfaces tends to do that). I have not heard or seen anyone report the vac line rubber cut through. Rob, Adam, brian or myself haven't reported any such event. I've had mine for over 12 months, 30,000kms driven.

Your car-bro-science gets people spending $$ pointlessly. I sincerely hope you have at least some hard evidence to back up your comments

[peadya100]

Robert (manaz) told me his kompact bov broke due to contact with the bonnet. That's why he bought this new one. The cut PW made in my bonnet is just in part of the bonnet frame, not the air guide itself. It only just touched the bonnet framing, so probably wasn't a huge problem, but better safe than sorry.
The problem is that the bov isn't exactly vertical, so the point load isn't directly on top of the bolt. So closing the bonnet on it could put force on it in a direction thats not designed for taking load.

[alexeiwoody]

Robert (manaz) told me his kompact bov broke due to contact with the bonnet. That's why he bought this new one. The cut PW made in my bonnet is just in part of the bonnet frame, not the air guide itself. It only just touched the bonnet framing, so probably wasn't a huge problem, but better safe than sorry.
The problem is that the bov isn't exactly vertical, so the point load isn't directly on top of the bolt. So closing the bonnet on it could put force on it in a direction thats not designed for taking load.

Maybe he should post some pics then.

As pmed: I can agree that there's 'reason to be wary' but putting this thing under structural analysis - I can't see the bonnet developing enough force, acting on the nipple as a lever, to break the nipple - without visibly affecting the rubber first.

Again - I'm not saying it's not possible to break the nipple - but rather that we should see tell tale signs, of the nipple being in trouble before it ever snaps, on all our cars.

Edit: sorry rob, just read your previous post about the vac connection 'stripping' itself out. Seems like you've lucked out on that one.

I'm still of the opinion that if the cause is what matt says - I'd be looking at exactly where the bonnet was touching on yours and checking the rubber. Mine has lasted 12 months and yours only a month or two?

Just wanted to stand up for the poor kompact.

[peadya100]

Ill get a photo of what PW did for my bonnet. You can see where it would have hit the bonnet as there is a rub mark on the insulation under the bonnet.

[Manaz]

Alas, I don't have photos.

I was very happy with the Kompact - the only issue was the fact it hit the bonnet once I put it on the PW TMIC. If people have a more standard-sized TMIC, they're probably going to be very happy with the Kompact.

There's quite a bit of force acting on the BPV if it hits the bonnet (as peady mentioned, it's not the PW airguide that mine hit, but rather the bonnet support, which I've had cut now) - closing the bonnet itself is bad enough (you drop the bonnet to close it), and the engine moves around a bit. As peady also noted, the forces are then not straight down that top bolt, so you don't actually need a lot of force to cause an issue (particularly when you're talking about soft aluminium parts).

[THE SpecB]

Manaz nice build. Why are you running only 15psi? Is that S and s# is 18?