If you need a sedan to test out any new photography equipment just let me know!
2006 Subaru Liberty 3.0R Spec B Urban Grey Metallic Tuned, Raptor Headers, K2 Gear Spec Neo Catback, HKS ES Premium Ti Limited Mufflers, Shockworks Coilovers, Rays 57 Pro w/ Titanium Lip, Advan AD08R, JDM Front End w/ Zerosports Front Lip, Corazon Grille, Deltaspeed Side Skirts, Custom Headlights, Stickered, and more...
Last piece of the supension puzzle was installed on the weekend, then a basic alignment for toe at the local Donellans... A big thanks to Owen for most of my awesome suspension upgrades, and Tuspeed for the rest.
AVO cro-mo H brace for BP/BL...
The last possible suspension mods I'd consider would be adding PROVA Rigi Colas ie: solid subframe bushes, and maybe Whiteline or HardRace rear toe arms.
JDM alloy trailing arms and rear upper arms with WL caster bushes, AVO 4 point rear braces, AVO HD RSB mounts (essential), Perrin adjustable caster links, tbSTi rear toe links.
On the alignment hoist at Donellans...
Next up, get the diff bushes sorted, and find some 56.1mm-75mm hubcentric rings...
Last edited by bigBADbenny on Tue Mar 17, 2015 1:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
The rear suspension mods are mainly for reducing a few kilos of unsprung weight and fitment- along with rolled guards. Very minor change in feel at the rear end from the reduced weight. The AVO caster offset front LCA bushes should increase straight line high speed stability and promote return to center when cornering; a little... The braces should also contribute (along with reduction in unsprung weight) to increasing the transfer of bump energy into the dampers. The Shockworks on stock sways are the biggest change to the handling, everything thing else either works in concert and or increases NVH
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I've been running my PROVA Enkeis w/o hubcentric rings, since I bought the wheels around the end of 2012.
So I thought I'd better get some for that 1% extra smoothness. I had thought the rims were stock-hubcentric but on closer inspection... No. TBH, I would have thought every alignment joint I've ever used would have let me know, but I guess its not even an issue to them.
Nothing done to the Lib last weekend apart from a wash and a few delightful drives. I did check and tighten all the suspension nuts n bolts.
Whilst it was on the hoist the mechanics started getting critical with the road-worthiness aspect of the mods. I said "bring it on, the whole point of the car is to be extremely safe, but fun and engaging to drive."
Coilovers: fail. Wheel width: fail (maybe a pass because the tbSTi came with 7.5" rims stock) Alloy suspension links: fail (maybe a pass because OEM/JDM)
Then general criticisms: "I would have spent all that money making it go faster" A: well now its ready to go faster. That zorst is as good as 2" all the way" A: we're already making around 150-160 atw, the stock muffs are good for 200 atw and the current setup sounds great without being tiring everywhere but WOT. "Feel your tyres, they're scalloping because the suspension is too hard" A: Unconvinced: second hand tyres, run on 3 different sets of suspension, not too worried...
So I let my mechanic buddy John (at Little Sams Garage) have a drive. He zipped around the block then said "get in, I'll show you how its done"... nek minnit: race shifts and triple digit speeds. "it handles well... nahhh 12psi is heaps... springs could be softer"
They so love to contradict themselves
I have a new project on the go: a rolling resto of Crumpler's 1985 Nissan H252 President. Here it is in a recent promo vid:
The car is in quite good nick, bar a some peeling paint and clearcoat, and some recent vandalism to the grille and drivers quarter window. I've enlisted the assistance of one of Melbourne's finest to help get us back on the road with parts and advice.
Its the former command car of the Osaka police chief, so its been debadged of most of the VIP and Soveriegn emblems and President badges. Most people mistake it for a ZIL
Currently its cutting out after 20 or so minutes driving, meaning the crank sensor in the distributor is possibly faulty. So we're looking for part numbers, similar parts or an expert in such matters to assist. Its a V8 iron block Y44 engine with alloy heads and inlet, iirc.
Next step is to take a peek inside the dizzy, hunt around for interchangeable or replacement parts, or source a new one from the enthusiast community or from Japan. Long shot but the hall or optical trigger in the dizzy might be replaceable. Another distant possibility is to convert it to electronic ignition using a kit for ford or chev.
We're going to try to do most of the legwork and research, before committing to spending the big money.