Mo_GT's install

Stereos, amps, phone kits, Navi...

Postby Mo_GT » Fri Jan 11, 2008 11:00 pm

T-REXX wrote:MO GT

very impressive mate

but after seeing ur DIY u scared me off doing it hahah looks to hard..

also is there a Sub woofer standard in the Lib TB STi


Thanks :)

Its not that hard - just takes a little bit of practise.

There should be a sub in the t/b STi GT - the stereo should be the same as in the normal GT.

Bye,
Mo
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Postby GT25 » Fri Jan 11, 2008 11:37 pm

Hey Mo.

Why'd you put the tweeters in the footwell?

I'd've thought they'd be better aimed at the front passengers.

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Postby chriskan » Sat Jan 12, 2008 12:59 pm

Mo_GT wrote:
T-REXX wrote:MO GT

very impressive mate

but after seeing ur DIY u scared me off doing it hahah looks to hard..

also is there a Sub woofer standard in the Lib TB STi



There should be a sub in the t/b STi GT - the stereo should be the same as in the normal GT.


Yep, it's on the rear shelf.. you probably saw it but didn't realise it was subaru's idea of a "sub" :lol: :roll:
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Postby Mo_GT » Sat Jan 12, 2008 9:41 pm

GT25 wrote:Hey Mo.

Why'd you put the tweeters in the footwell?

I'd've thought they'd be better aimed at the front passengers.

Greg


Hey Greg,
With car audio its always going to be hard to have the speakers in a position that is going to be the best for all seats. But you can get it pretty good by trying to keep the speakers as far forward as possible so that the distance between the speakers and the listeners is somewhat equal (or the differences in distance is very small) and also keeping the tweeters and mids as close as possible (there are exceptions tho).

In most cars the kick panels are ideal locations and most (decent) car audio tweeters have a good off axis performance and this helps too.

Also, the tweeters in my car are kinda cross aimed(left tweeter is aimed at the drivers side and vice versa)- so that the point at which they would meet is roughly at the tip of my nose when i'm sitting in my normal driving position - i found that in the GT this was a good startting point to get a good stereo image.

hope my explanation makes sense - its kinda hard without being able to show you...

bye.
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Postby NoOzL47 » Tue Jan 15, 2008 10:40 pm

Hey mate with the front speakers,

When u were installing them, did you take notice as to weather the window curved in as it comes down or not? and how deep are your speakers? Im looking at a set but there is no way possibly to fit them in a WRX door cause the window curves as it comes down, just trying to find out if its the same in the lib before i go tearing it apart
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Postby Mo_GT » Wed Jan 16, 2008 11:53 am

NoOzL47 wrote:Hey mate with the front speakers,

When u were installing them, did you take notice as to weather the window curved in as it comes down or not? and how deep are your speakers? Im looking at a set but there is no way possibly to fit them in a WRX door cause the window curves as it comes down, just trying to find out if its the same in the lib before i go tearing it apart


Its the same with the Liberty as well.

What year WRX are we talking about? With my wrx (98), i had similar speakers and all you needed was to space them out by about an inch.

Its the same with the Liberty - if you look at my install pics you'll see that the speakers are about an inch proud of the door skin.

The mounting depth of the mids are about 2.5".
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Postby tangcla » Wed Jan 16, 2008 11:57 am

Tweeters in the footwell also have better sound staging and won't be overpoweringly bright as compared to when they are on the mirror corner.
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Postby Mo_GT » Wed Jan 16, 2008 11:06 pm

tangcla wrote:Tweeters in the footwell also have better sound staging and won't be overpoweringly bright as compared to when they are on the mirror corner.


Hmmm sorry i don't agree with the above.
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Postby CheesyMong » Fri Apr 25, 2008 7:03 pm

Hey mo does your steering wheel audio controls still work?

Also has anyone seen this before http://kanack.co.jp/fpc/f001.html trying to work out how it works.
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Postby Mo_GT » Fri Apr 25, 2008 8:39 pm

CheesyMong wrote:Hey mo does your steering wheel audio controls still work?

Also has anyone seen this before http://kanack.co.jp/fpc/f001.html trying to work out how it works.


Nope, my system is independant of all std wiring except for the ignition wire.

The FPC thing you posted up, from the broken translation on google - looks like it works by intercepting the wheel controls and then transmitting them to another unit like a remote control would.
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Postby CheesyMong » Sat Apr 26, 2008 12:48 am

Mo_GT wrote:
CheesyMong wrote:Hey mo does your steering wheel audio controls still work?

Also has anyone seen this before http://kanack.co.jp/fpc/f001.html trying to work out how it works.


Nope, my system is independant of all std wiring except for the ignition wire.

The FPC thing you posted up, from the broken translation on google - looks like it works by intercepting the wheel controls and then transmitting them to another unit like a remote control would.


Thanks I just I use the wheel controls quite a bit so it would be good to keep them. I know there are some decks out there that claim to continue to work, but I was looking at the AVIC-HD3 and I do not believe they will integrate without using a 3rd party item.

Cheers

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Postby CheesyMong » Thu May 01, 2008 4:18 pm

For anyone interested you can integrate the steering wheel contols with most HUs

There is a product sold by Stinger Australia called the PAC-AUDIO SWI-PS this is like a learning remote that is wired into the back of most HUs and can send the commands to your stereo as long as the HU and a remote control line in on the back of the HU.

If you do not have the line in interface then PAC-AUDIO also have a infrared sender that can do the same job.

Price is approx $250

Cheers

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Postby gtspec » Thu Sep 11, 2008 2:59 pm

just read this post and wow moe thats a crazy install.. well done

i would pay to have you do this to my car, interested ??? hehe

i want to attempt this project, i am already buying bits and pieces to give it a go on a weekend.. couple of questions thou

1. Did you leave any stock tweeters? if not did you replace them with anything.. i guess im after a overall final speaker layout because i dont know wot to do in regards to all those speakers in the front door..
replace them all or only put 1 speaker and tweeter per door?

2. This may sound dumb but do the libs have door mounted airbags.. my previous bmw did and was too scared to touch it

3. Im guessing you completely removed the Mcintosh amp

4. how does the sub sound being in the position? have you tested in being in the normal position facing the rear boot lip pushed up against the seat?

5. After sound proofing do you notice anything still rattles e.g number plate?

I appreciate your opinions

Thanks

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Postby Mo_GT » Thu Sep 11, 2008 8:24 pm

gtspec wrote:just read this post and wow moe thats a crazy install.. well done

i would pay to have you do this to my car, interested ??? hehe

Sure why not :) All i need is a 1st class ticket over and a penthouse suite :)

If you want to pay someone to do an install in nsw, look up Marty @ FHRX Studios.

1. Did you leave any stock tweeters? if not did you replace them with anything.. i guess im after a overall final speaker layout because i dont know wot to do in regards to all those speakers in the front door..
replace them all or only put 1 speaker and tweeter per door?


I removed all stock speakers and tweeters. I only have a mid and tweeter per side, thats it. My speaker layout is pretty much a 2-way front and a 12" sub. 5 speakers in total.

2. This may sound dumb but do the libs have door mounted airbags.. my previous bmw did and was too scared to touch it


No air bags in doors - as a saftey precaution, disconnect battery at least 30mins before working on the car. Last thing you want to do is to set off an airbag next to your face!


3. Im guessing you completely removed the Mcintosh amp

Yup, all std stuff was removed.

4. how does the sub sound being in the position? have you tested in being in the normal position facing the rear boot lip pushed up against the seat?

The reason i installed the sub that way was to minimise cancellation - ie you don't want the air moved by the sub being able to flow behind the sub and or sub box.

Having a sub facing the back of the car or the front will also work well as long as the front of the sub and back are seperated.

like this for example:
Image
(Random pic found on the web - www.puremovements.co.uk)

Also, my sub box keeps with the minimal theme of the whole install.

5. After sound proofing do you notice anything still rattles e.g number plate?

Nope, i'm pretty happy with the sound damping. In my previous cars i've always had to go back and add more damping or stick stuff together or shove foam bits, etc. but this was quite straight forward.

Hope this helps! And please feel free to ask if you have anymore questions.
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Postby suff » Thu Sep 11, 2008 11:34 pm

Hey Mo_GT

A stupid question, but since getting my MY07 GT the rattles are driving me bonkers, and I am considering getting some DynaMat or alike.. how ever I have never had any experience installing this product.. so I have two questions for you:

A) what have you / do you use

B) Would you be interested in helping me fit said matting? (beer and food offered as bribes!)

Cheers

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