Project Veloci

[brainy]

Have you considered a compression test?

I'll be perfectly honest, but i was at least expecting something near Gino's car in terms of results as i wasn't expecting the auto and manual difference to be that far apart.

Definitely been some great suggestions, check your back pressure in the exhaust. I recently had a discussion with my exhaust guy about whether or not to stick with the 2.1/4 vs going 2.5 at the rears. I think after that conversation we decided to stay at 2.1/4.

Best of luck Mark and don't forget to use the valuable resources and people on the forum.

Brian

[MH3.0R]

Have you considered a compression test?

I'll be perfectly honest, but i was at least expecting something near Gino's car in terms of results as i wasn't expecting the auto and manual difference to be that far apart.

Definitely been some great suggestions, check your back pressure in the exhaust. I recently had a discussion with my exhaust guy about whether or not to stick with the 2.1/4 vs going 2.5 at the rears. I think after that conversation we decided to stay at 2.1/4.

Best of luck Mark and don't forget to use the valuable resources and people on the forum.

Brian

Thanks Brian,

Yes, agree completely, and now have a list of stuff to review at my next service. Exhaust back pressure will need to be done by a specialist, so if there are recommendations for the SE burbs, happy to hear of them.

I have been thinking considerably about the sizing of the exhaust and the more I think of it, the more I am inclined to feel I have made an error, but I will go and get an independent appraisal.

[<GB>]

danny checked my back pressure on his dyno he plumbed it up to his boost reading then showed me what it was doing on the screen, it was going up with boost pressure perfectly to lik 7-8 psi... cat was causing my issue, id like to retest if I get around to making a shit gauge then go for a drive

[Tradewind]

Check exhaust back pressure

Maybe go for similar exhaust (cat and catback) system setup to G - known to deliver the goods (power wise)

Boost is lower than the 7psi or so it could be, check air filter

Do you have a dyno chart with boost line on it?

Matt would know by the airflow meter readings how much air is going into motor and consequently the expected output for that flow, but restrictions on the output side can screw that up.

[Tradewind]

Is the boost pressure measurement via a gauge or via factory MAP?

[KiDo_Tuning]

Check exhaust back pressure

Maybe go for similar exhaust (cat and catback) system setup to G - known to deliver the goods (power wise)

Boost is lower than the 7psi or so it could be, check air filter

Do you have a dyno chart with boost line on it?

Matt would know by the airflow meter readings how much air is going into motor and consequently the expected output for that flow, but restrictions on the output side can screw that up.

Dyno charts at start had boost grpahed but it was consistently in the high 6's which considering the heat was understandable but heat, trans temps and oil temps held back the dyno output. Compared to the NA RTR run with the broken gearbox belt, power output has risen substantially

[MH3.0R]

Dyno charts at start had boost grpahed but it was consistently in the high 6's which considering the heat was understandable but heat, trans temps and oil temps held back the dyno output. Compared to the NA RTR run with the broken gearbox belt, power output has risen substantially

The outside air temp was noted by myself at 22 degree C at the start of the dyno session and finished at 24 degree C. I made these observations from the iphone, so not sure how accurate they would be.

Transmission and oil temps were all within the normal range from my observations. Not sure what is meant by "held back the dyno output".

It is what it is, no excuses.

[Kekotic]

What is different between your car and Ginos?

[jaydece]

What is different between your car and Ginos?

The pollution of the west side Vs the clean air of the south east side

but on a serious note....the obvious one is the 6spd on brother G's vs no lag's auto...that's what I see as significant?

[MH3.0R]

Had a service done by Ivan on Saturday and we found a considerable number of leaks in the WTA system. Six of the water lines where they entered either the cooler itself, the entry and exits to the front radiators and all over the Reservoir, there were evidence of leaks.



This one was leaking from under the hoses but coming from the elbow connector where it screws into the radiator.



This is one side of the WTA Cooler Unit and you can see evidence of the leak running down from the join.



This is the drivers side of the WTA Cooler Unit and you can see the same evidence of the leak running down from the join.



This is the WTA Reservoir and it is leaking from everywhere!

And this is how we fixed the main leaks, with this stuff:



And a sample of how we fixed them, some on the outer thread, and some on the inner thread, then screw them all back together.



So some quick emails to Tim and some quick repair suggestions, but that Reservoir is going to go regardless of the temp fix. On opening it up, there are no seals on the top or bottom. Tim is send me a replacement without my requesting one, and looking forward to checking out how the new one performs. Will also consider mounting it with weekly maintenance inspections/top ups in mind, so bring it a bit further forward out from under the strutt brace.

There was also some postulation about the "color"of the coolant having an adverse reaction with the Loctite used at original install time. The version I am running is a 33% mix of water and a red coolant (cannot recall precisely, but it might be Redline Water Wetter, I will check with Ivan). Tim and others are running a "green" coolant of the same mix and have never had an issue with leaking.

So for this correction, we have remained with the red coolant and tried a silicone based sealant. Had 3 runs in the car since the service and so far, no further leaks. Will make a final call after about two weeks.

[MH3.0R]

Found this item lying around Ivan's workshop and he thinks it can be adapted to my 3.0R engine:



It is an Air Oil Separator that is a direct replacement for the Oil Cap. Like so:



This version is for a WRX and the thread is a bit too long. With about trim of about 2mm or one full turn on the thread, it should mount nicely on to the oil filler neck and then just a bit of rerunning the crank case vent hoses to fit it up.

Ivan reckons they should be under $150 devilered anywhere in Aust. currently for WRX/STI only, but may fit on the Liberty GT. I will let you know when the 3.0R version is available.

[MH3.0R]

What is different between your car and Ginos?

Basically what Justin said. Just the auto/manual thing.

Also, I think G may have a different BOV and clamps on the intake tubing. And his was tuned by Cihan versus Matt. But all cars are different regardless. Mine does have 290K kms on the clock, so much further done the line of engine life than others.

[kiahatsiu]

Give that oil air separator a swerve.
Stick to the catch can idea. All I have is internet hearsay; but it can allow water into the oil. Have a google, plently of boffins out there have good and bad things to say.

Good news on finding the leaks. I am pleased to hear it is going to get fixed without question too.

[brainy]

Who installed the WTA kit originally? Was it $van & Barry? I wonder why your installation has given such results when Gino's is leak free (and self installed from memory).

I always thought that copper cores vs aluminium required a certain type of coolant. Who recommended using the red coolant?

Mark, chin up mate, you're almost there! Hopefully you can get everything sorted and enjoy the car.

[Brunsy3.0]

Mark, first of all great effort mate its good to see there are still those trying new things and doing it THEIR way instead of how people want them to.
Have just read through the entire build and am amazed in the ideas and most of all the effort that has gone into this build. The quality of the work looks fantastic and its awesome to see you not putting up with less than perfect work
It's builds like this that pave the way for the rest of the community to learn from both mistakes made along the way and the 'pushing the envelope' ingenuity that has transformed the way the H6's are heading

Props