EGR & Secondary Air Injection Valves

[klam]

Guys, could you please advise on what are the hoses running from / to EGR valve here on the picture (full circles), and whether I can safely detach them. Also, to remove the parts in the hollow circles it's freaking difficult, any ideas how to access that bolt on the right... also, is that common for a car to have 2 EGR valves? the one on the intake duct is even worse in regards of accessibility... thanks

UPDATE: After being corrected by a member of this forum, the part on the picture is actually a secondary air injection valve. So I've missed the EGR, but at least I've inspected Air Injection valve hehe

[Deep Heat]

Bolt on the right I used a 1/4inch socket ratchet and a extension. Metal hose goes to exhaust, plastic is intake.

Why do you want to take it off anyway?

[klam]

well, resorting to the clean up of egr as one of the last options to try to fix the flatspot/hesitation my car keeps developing..especially after a longer drive or under heavier load.
So I intend to clean it up. If there is another way without disassembling it, just let me know please. Thanks

[Deep Heat]

well, resorting to the clean up of egr as one of the last options to try to fix the flatspot/hesitation my car keeps developing..especially after a longer drive or under heavier load.
So I intend to clean it up. If there is another way without disassembling it, just let me know please. Thanks

It's easy to take off to clean it properly though I think you would have to take it apart. There are four torx screws holding it together from there you could give the inside a good clean so its not that hard a job.

Out of curiosity what oil are you using?

[klam]

It's easy to take off to clean it properly though I think you would have to take it apart. There are four torx screws holding it together from there you could give the inside a good clean so its not that hard a job.

Out of curiosity what oil are you using?

that's something I would love to know as well as I had it serviced by mechanic and never took any interest in that, but now I'm paying an attention. Any tips for the best of the best ones?

the egr on the air intake hose side looks less accessible the the one on the battery, but will try my best as I don't have the best of the tools here. Thanks!

[EDIT] Just found the sticker that the mechanic is using and it bears REPSOL. but nothing more specific...

[Deep Heat]

It's easy to take off to clean it properly though I think you would have to take it apart. There are four torx screws holding it together from there you could give the inside a good clean so its not that hard a job.

Out of curiosity what oil are you using?

Any tips for the best of the best ones?
[EDIT] Just found the sticker that the mechanic is using and it bears REPSOL. but nothing more specific...

I just gabbed a bottle of 10w-40 magnatec I normally use whatever penrite/motul is available, magnatec is not the best oil but since I swapped it I have had the hesitation once in 3,000km's. Might be a coincidence but idk.

[klam]

So I took one EGR valve out, and I'm not any wiser as I have no idea how one should look like. Here are two images. EGR_1_1 is the one that shows the "pre-chamber" assembly.. bit of rust, bit of shit there but looks quite ok for the exhaust gas go through.

EGR_1_1

EGR_1_1_resize.jpg (206.23 KiB) Viewed 7769 times

EGR_1_2 show the part where the actual valve is, and this looks quite worn. Can't tell how well it works... what do you reckon? what can be done with this, shall I clean it? or replace it with new one?

EGR_1_2

EGR_1_2_resize.jpg (191.67 KiB) Viewed 7769 times

thanks

[alexeib7]

Dear klam,

I've had hesitation problems with my Subaru Liberty 2006 2.0 auto a while ago.

The valves you referred to is , I believe to be the secondary air injection system- air switching valves. Sometimes code- P2441 air switching valve stuck closed or stuck open. I cleaned the valves.

you can use a flathead screwdriver and scrape the carbon deposits away then using carby cleaner, let the cleaner soak for a while and wipe off. I also used the original rubber gasket.

About the EGR valve, I believe it is very close to the alternator, in between the alternator and the intake manifold. It is easier to remove the EGR valve if you loosen the alternator belt and lift the

alternator upwards. You can try cleaning it with carby cleaner once disassembled, pushing the spring back and forth whilst spraying carby cleaner should free any seizures.

I also changed the PCV valve which is a red plastic valve located above the intake manifold and close to the intake pipe. You can google Subaru Outback 2010 PCV valve- Outback 2010 and Liberty

2006 use the same type of PCV valve, or search Ebay, it's quite inexpensive.

I have not had anymore hesitation problems after cleaning the valves and replacing the PCV valve. The car feels much more powerful also.

I recommend using 98 octane fuel, it's cleaner for the engine.

Have a great day.

P.S- I also cleaned the Air Flow Meter with Mass Air Flow Sensor cleaner which might help to stop hesitation problems.

[klam]

thanks for the insight much appreciated!

[klam]

so finally I've got some time to do the egr valve ... was relatively dirty, the ventil itself was pitch black with some soot on it so I cleaner it up with the UEC and it came out nicely clean. I have a question though... would it be safe to spray the UAC a bit into the upper hole (the picture on the right) that leads to the engine body?
cheers,

[klam]

guys, I've conducted a test using the freeSSM, where in diagnostic you can test each secondary ait valve... if I run the test for #1, I can clearly hear the valve opening/closing... but the same test for #2 doesn't produce any sound whatsover. You reckon this could be a problem with the valve or is it expected behavior? I'd say it should behave the same, as I assume the functionality of both is pretty much the same... can anyone test their or what do you think this is? thanks!