Oil Recommendation

[specwarop]

Whats everyone think of TOTAL oil?
A reputable Subaru mechanic here uses it, but I never even heard of it before the service I had with them...
Hows it compare?

[coyote]

Whats everyone think of TOTAL oil?
A reputable Subaru mechanic here uses it, but I never even heard of it before the service I had with them...
Hows it compare?

I once had some Total diesel oil tested that was amazing. It had done 20,000km and came out like new.

This thread has moved beyond comparing brands though. Which Total oil has been recommended?

[<GB>]

http://www.valvolinecummins.com/Tips-En ... essure.asp

[Newbie GT]

So how many are using the Delvac ?

And have your engines been modified or opened?

[dr20t]

Read my post (read: essay) on the previous page

Mick

Penrite specs are stupid.

No TBN for your daily driven oil and no HTHS for your race oil.

I also think they make a decent product, but it's as if they don't want you to know some of the most important info.

Have emailed penrite for the vital details before making my final choice

Pending this info, I'm leaning toward the 10w40 ten tenths race oil, or if its SN and e85 compliant, the 5w40 enviro oil. That is for street

For track ill be going for amsoil 10w60 or castrol edge 10w60

Mick

[coyote]

Have emailed penrite for the vital details before making my final choice

Pending this info, I'm leaning toward the 10w40 ten tenths race oil, or if its SN and e85 compliant, the 5w40 enviro oil. That is for street

For track ill be going for amsoil 10w60 or castrol edge 10w60

Mick

Had a quick look for Amsoil 10w60 and couldn't find it. Got a link?

I reckon that Castrol (and likely the Amsoil) is just too thick.

Compare the specs to this.

The Castrol is much thicker when cold, still very thick at 100C, yet similar HTHS.

It's probably cheaper, but I get the impression you're shopping for the best protection you can get. Remember the engine wasn't designed to push a 24cSt fluid at operating temps and you can get the HTHS protection you're after with less sacrifice.

Just my opinion. I'll shut up now.

[dr20t]

I'm talking track oil though tony - and if you've seen me at the track my engine needs the best protection from my shitty driving that it can get

I'm comfortable using a 60 Sae rated for the track only

As said no thicker than a 40 for daily driving

The amsoil 15w50 is too heavy (at 15) for my liking on a tight clearance motor such as my ej207

Even at the track I'd really like to stick to a 10w50 or 10w60 if I can find it, with high shear quality, SN approved rating, sound hths and tb

Fark me this is hard

Mick

[Shaheenis]

I use Nulon 15/50 Street&Track full synthetic in my other car (built EJ22) because clearances not so tight and seems to be a good oil for street. Over the years with different motors I have used everything from diesel oils, Magnatec, full synths etc. I have made choices based on hours of reading forums and my limited understanding of the 'science of oils'.

I am not sure how you are supposed to test whether an oil is good or bad though without testing engine wear and perhaps monitoring oil temps so any recommendations here would be good.

Given there are so many bloody oils on the market and the majority of people do not know what is best for their vehicles it would be awesome if some of the more knowledgeable folks could provide some recommended oils for typical applications (I.e stock motor street standard Subaru service intervals - 12.5k). Is Motul 10/40 Turbolight good for this ap?

I think someone above makes a good point of what weight oil the engine was actually designed for and for simple folk (me ) perhaps the weight should be based on the service manual recommendation and then brand and type based on expected service intervals and expected use/driving style for heat:performance suitability and longevity. Thoughts?

Regarding Motul Turbolight, for the above application would this not be one of the better choices?

[alexeiwoody]

My car burns through motul 10w40 really fast ... I've been advised to go 15w by a few people now. Cars done 160k

[dja]

i use castrol edge sport 5/30 as the manual wants.
has over 200kw atw and doesnt use a drop between changes.
Car has 128xxx km's

[PoidaGT]

A lot of the forester guys use delvac.. Yes it's designed for Diesel engines. They swear by it, plus it's cheap. Have heard good things about royal purple also, a bit on the expensive side tho?

MSR recommends Mobil Delvac.
He pulls down motors all the time and has experimented with a lot of different oils.
Mick convinced me to use Delvacs after i had been using Mobil 1.

Opinions are like arseholes, eveybody's got one

[dr20t]

Opinions are like arseholes, eveybody's got one

Which emphasises the reason one should investigate their options well before taking on someone's advice

I like the delvac. It's alot better than alot of other oils out there. But I've read michael's reasoning for using it and it doesn't quite wash with me to be honest. Not having a dig just pointing things out

Michael points to premature bearing wear and bore glazing as a direct result of using a 5w30 oil

I could accept this from a cursory glance (based on michael's experience). Howevwr, there is no empirical evidence or back to back tests to confirm it. Mick hasn't provided oil analysis tests etc that I know of to support the theory, which doesn't mean he is wrong by any stretch.

However when you look at the composition of engine oil, and the way oil flows through especially a subie motor, it is quite clear that the highest point of engine wear and thus risk is at cold startup.

It is absolutely implausible to argue that a 15w oil of the same quality will provide as much protection at startup as a 5w oil. The physics don't lie

If you were to tell me that after say 5000 hard kms of use, the 15w oil could potentially be in better condition than the 5w oil (due to dilution or breakdown), and thus would protect better at startup, then I could see your point.

But the important info that's missing here is its not the weight of the oil (the 15w in this case) that would have given it this quality.

Therefore we should return to basics, that a 15w oil in my opinipn simply isn't sufficient enough to protect at cold startup for everyday duties on an oem clearanced motor

Once you understand clearances and their bearing (no pun intended) on oil flow to the critical parts, then you can see the point of what I'm saying. Delvac is no doubt a good oil for built motors, but I personally think it won't do me well for a factory spec'd block (piston to bore clearances, bearing clearances and oil pump specs)

[dr20t]

Also to add to the above, bore glazing can be a result of many things, including a rich tune washing the bores with fuel such that compression and oil control rings don't 'seal' properly against the bore and thus polish the wall up (think of it like a solvent that is used basically like a polish for the metal)

Thus when Michael points to the bore glaze and bearing failure as results of lighter oils, it doesn't make complete sense to me. A heavier oil is more likely to cavitate at cold startup and be whipped up. It is also harder to move around especially when cold. It is thus less likely to make it to the crank bearing journals and top end at startup than a lighter oil

[alexeiwoody]

I'm definitely following you there Mick. What about my case where I check my oil weekly and have to keep topping it up. I've gone past 1.5L top up in a month. In a 4.7L capacity engine...15w is meant to seal up the gaps better right?

[Newbie GT]

A lot of the forester guys use delvac.. Yes it's designed for Diesel engines. They swear by it, plus it's cheap. Have heard good things about royal purple also, a bit on the expensive side tho?

MSR recommends Mobil Delvac.
He pulls down motors all the time and has experimented with a lot of different oils.
Mick convinced me to use Delvacs after i had been using Mobil 1.

Opinions are like arseholes, eveybody's got one

Peter how have you found the delvac? It seems it may not be the way to go ....