dual 6.5" splits in front doors my07 3.0L

[Brunsy3.0]

Hey all

just interested in whether anyone has changed the stock 4" to 6.5" in a my07 spec.b 3.0 (or equivalent)

im looking into getting this done and want an idea of cost
also querying woofer/magnet clearance, necessity to cut hole in door frame as there isn't one for secondary woofer, new grille for door card as original is for 4" etc.

Cheers

[Egg]

Im actually waiting for my new parts for my new system to arrive in the next couple of weeks. I have going in to replace the Macintosh set up.

German Meastro 3 way splits in the front doors
german Maestro 1 piece in the back doors
2 12" Subs
2 amps
1 alpine W520E (double din)
+ fascia kit
Also speak to Garbo as he is the man when talking audio.

[garbo41610]

necessity to cut hole in door frame

There is never a reason to cut the door frame, apart from being utterly bush league it disturbs the integrity of the door frame.

Are you talking about replacing the midbass (the driver at the bottom) or the midrange driver (the smaller driver in the middle-ish of the door)? I would suggest just buying as decent a set of 2-way 6.5" splits as you can, to replace the existing "4-way" splits. Installing the mid woofer in place at the bottom of the door and the new tweeter in place of the factory tweeter near the door handle.

If you are paying to have all this done, I would allow about $500 to have it done properly. That means dynamat being used to "seal" the door to provide better midbass response and stop rattles, a mdf baffle being made up to mount the baffle to the door using the OEM holes and mounting the new driver to the baffle, the baffle either painted with some normal paint to minimise the ingress of water or with a paint on sealant so the baffle doesn't warp over time. And last but not least, sealant being used around the baffle to minimise air leaks to further improve midbass response. The mdf baffles should also be angled to improve the imaging of the sound. This means the sound from the front left and front right speakers reaches your ears at as close to the same time as possible.

To get an idea of what I am talking about take a look at FHRX Studios website - http://www.fhrxstudios.com.au/ this isn't a Liberty door but you get the idea

Here is the install that was done by FHRX on my old Liberty, I've pretty much given up doing my own installs because of my back. Also, my work was good (if I don't say so myself) but FHRX is waaaaaaaaaaay better. They are easily top five installers in the country.

Before:

After:


Feel free to PM me if you want to know anything else.

[Brunsy3.0]

i was planning on changing both the 6" drivers and 4" drivers to krx2's

i have a set of krx2's and a set of k2 165c's, though im thinking of selling the 165c's and then getting another set of krx2's and i see that focal make a k2 4" not sure how they sound though, with the nominal power ratings it will be pushing my pdx to its limit, not sure if im going to go through with the 4"s, i have a 4.150 pdx and my krx2's are 100rms, and these 4" k2's are 50rms so it should be fine, just need to watch the quality of music i play i guess which is hard as itl be off my ipod

[garbo41610]

I'm not sure what you mean by pushing your pdx to the limit??? The Focal's are rated at 100wRMS and you are powering them with a 4 x 150wRMS amp right??? Either way, music is dynamic so your amp won't be running at 150wRMS all the time anyway.

Am I right in assuming that you want to run the speakers in a "3-way" set up? If so, I wouldn't bother, 2-way set up is much simpler to set up and will produce as good real world results. Will you be running them passive or active? If you are planning to run them as a 3-way setup passively, don't forget you will need a new external 3-way cross over, probably the X-over from the KRX3's which is going to be pretty exxy.

[Brunsy3.0]

i was thinking of using the tweeters that come with the 4" 100 krs aswell and have 4-way in the front doors still, though am unsure if its worth getting the 4" at all

and also i am trying to figure out whether its worth upgrading from coaxial 6.5" k2 165c to krx2 in the rear so as to utilise the tweeter mounts and possiblie clear up the sound a bit...thoughts? worth the money?

[garbo41610]

Sell the coax's and just run the OEM rears and fade them right out. To get the best sound a lot of SQ people don't even run rears.

Just stick with the 2way splits dude, its much easier to set up and make subtle changes here and there. Once you start adding in additional drivers it makes getting the crossover points much more critical because you will start to get cancellations in frequencies etc etc. A 2way set up, esp with speakers like Focal (which personally I am not a big fan of, but credit where credits due) makes a very good comprimise. Subaru's esp with frameless doors and notoriously flimsy doors, are not the best environment for SQ. The installation will make more of a difference than simply throwing in extra channels. More speakers do not a good stereo make just because Subaru put "4way's" in the front doors doesn't mean you should

Save your money and concentrate on spending the money you saved on the best installation as you can and you'll be much happier for it in the end.

[Brunsy3.0]

cheers Garbo for your input, taking on some of your advice, thinking of ditching the 4-way idea in the front (might save me a bundle too) and just sticking with what i got, using the krx2's in the front and 165c's in the rear

im thinking that the tweeter closest to the door lock would be a better position for the tweeter but maybe thats just me, im thinkin i need to dynamat the hell out of it too, besides the doors and whole boot, are there any other rattles that are common in the Liberty's? im thinkin gof sealing the boot air pressure release (for when you close the boot) and i hear that the housing that holds the licence plate is a bit of a problem, easy answers?

im running a 13W7 JL Audio in the boot, so its gonna make a lot of things shake

any advice would be useful before i get a lot of it installed and then have to go searching to find the rattles

[mihai]

cheers Garbo for your input, taking on some of your advice, thinking of ditching the 4-way idea in the front (might save me a bundle too) and just sticking with what i got, using the krx2's in the front and 165c's in the rear

im thinking that the tweeter closest to the door lock would be a better position for the tweeter but maybe thats just me, im thinkin i need to dynamat the hell out of it too, besides the doors and whole boot, are there any other rattles that are common in the Liberty's? im thinkin gof sealing the boot air pressure release (for when you close the boot) and i hear that the housing that holds the licence plate is a bit of a problem, easy answers?

im running a 13W7 JL Audio in the boot, so its gonna make a lot of things shake

any advice would be useful before i get a lot of it installed and then have to go searching to find the rattles

Mate, I'm running a 12W7 and there are a few rattles. First I'd dynamat your parcel shelf. Use a little bit on the metal, and add quite a bit to the trim as this rattles the most.

As for the boot, sealing the pressure release is the first thing to do (I still havn't gotten around to this), but even with the pressure release sealed, you will get vibrations from your rear bumper. The number plate, best thing to do with that is 1 sheet of dynamat on the back of the number plate, and if you have a numberplate protector on it, just go to bunnings and get the foam seal that you can put around windows. Place that along the edge of the numberplate protector between it and the numberplate and screw/clip it back to the numberplate and you should be all good.

I'd also recommend dynamatting the rear quarter panels. Only takes about 1 sheet to do both. They are already quite solid, but it does help a little bit. Oh and obviously, the boot lid. That definately needs to be done. Including behind the plastic trim where the numberplate sits.

[garbo41610]

cheers Garbo for your input, taking on some of your advice, thinking of ditching the 4-way idea in the front (might save me a bundle too) and just sticking with what i got, using the krx2's in the front and 165c's in the rear

im thinking that the tweeter closest to the door lock would be a better position for the tweeter but maybe thats just me, im thinkin i need to dynamat the hell out of it too, besides the doors and whole boot, are there any other rattles that are common in the Liberty's? im thinkin gof sealing the boot air pressure release (for when you close the boot) and i hear that the housing that holds the licence plate is a bit of a problem, easy answers?

im running a 13W7 JL Audio in the boot, so its gonna make a lot of things shake

any advice would be useful before i get a lot of it installed and then have to go searching to find the rattles

Glad to help out where I can. Good luck with it.

In an ideal world, the tweeters (depending on exact model etc) it is generally best practice to keep the tweeter as close to the mid driver as possible. However, real world installs, especially when utilising factory mounting points etc doesn't always allow this.

[Brunsy3.0]

Yeah I hope i can fix all those rattles good and proper, one thing that grinds my gears are rattles

thanks for the insight mihai, will def be dynamatting all those problem areas first and then spreading everywhere i can from there

and i agree 100% Garbo, how things should be isn't always possible, especially on a budget

thanks for the help guys, now all i have to do is find a decent installer up here, there is a CAM up in Darwin though i will have to suss them out and try to sample some of there work as i like everything neat and tidy, the only reason i want to get it installed properly is mainly for the tuning and dynamatting (so time consuming, ends up costing a fortune though still am contemplating ripping the door skins off myself and getting stuck into it all, probs not though)

cheers again

[andy85]

dynamatting (so time consuming, ends up costing a fortune though still am contemplating ripping the door skins off myself and getting stuck into it all, probs not though)

Time consuming but well worth it. Just make some time for it. Then leave the rest of the install for the pros!!