RAPTOR SUPERCHARGER FOR LIB 3.0

[smythie]

Today I learnt the following

A manual spec B has bigger brakes and some kind of adjustable Bilstein suspension. Obviously the Auto trans cars have smaller brake rotors and a fixed rate Bilstein suspension

The Auto has fancy memory seats and the manual just gets electric seats with no memory system for 2 different drivers

Does that all sound correct?

Sounds off.

Brakes: The 3.0 got the same brakes whether it was Spec B or not, auto or manual. The same brakes as the GT (spec B or not). The H4 n/a's got the smaller brakes and the tbSTI got the 4 pots.

Suspension: No Liberty sold in Aus had adjustable dampers. The Bilstein dampers can be revalved however but this requires disassembly. Only Spec B models (3.0 or GT) and tbSTi got Bilstein dampers from the factory. The rest got KYB dampers. The damping rates of the Bilstein dampers supplied as stock with the Liberties through the Gen 4 run reportedly changed at facelift (mid 2006 for MY07) and the tbSTi reportedly had different valving again.

Seat: Here I am not sure. I think it might be the facelift cars that got memory options rather than pre-facelift automatics.

This is all my understanding. I'm happy for others to correct me, particularly on the seat issue.

[MH3.0R]

The MY04-MY06 3.0R model seats have no memory (much like their owners! ) And also the seat side bolsters have a higher profile for better lateral support than the Facelift model MY07-MY09. I think the seating is also extended to the GT, GT Spec B, and GT tbSTI variants.

[Tradewind]

Will share some pics of the machine soonest I get some

Looking forward to owning one of these exceptional machines

Must remember to order a tactrix cable in next day or so

[west_minist]

Not the pads. I more drive heel and toe, which is less stress on the brake system and still. So if the Brembo's barely cutting it, I don't see the 2pots either with smaller disc and heavier car. But it is a good starting point.

Short roads kills brakes.

Wouldn't heel & toe be harder on the brakes? Because you are using the brakes more and engine braking less.

Lesser brakes. Its a combination. The car slows quicker. Actually in a AWD or 4WD, this is the best combinatio to slow down quick. Heal and toe is an art. It just not blipping the throttle and putting the car in a lower gear.

[Tradewind]

Well finally we have a Liberty 3.0R B 6 speed manual

One of the first jobs was give the head light lenses a bit of a polish to remove the light haze on them from Sun exposure

Car drives well, new Nankang tyres were fitted as well as Bendix Stealth brake pads during the road worthy

It has 118k km on it

Interior and boot are as traded so plenty cleaning to do, paint is good and general external appearance is good

I need a bonnet protector and hope Subaru has something for the Lib, same for mud flaps, where I live these items are essential to minimise small stone damage due to dirt edges on bitumen roads

Clutch has a lot more weight than I expected, suspension firmer than expected and brake pedal has to be given a good shove however the brakes are unreal good

The motor pulls well for a 3 liter, the last few rpm the power flattens out which is probably an exhaust thing or combo of that and slight intake restrictions, can fix that I am sure

Oh and the very short ratios, thats taking a bit of getting used to, like my 250 road bike

Solid service history at a Subaru dealer - seems up to scratch on that score, books are all up to date


Next thing is to get a ROM out of it for Ed, have to buy in the Tactrix first

[smythie]

First thing should be to get rid of the nankangs if you think you'll ever be driving it in the rain. Not terrible in the dry but horrid in the wet.

[Tradewind]

Update:

I normally bring a vehicle up to tip top operating condition before I start modding ....... so will follow a bunch of posts on this

On Thursday morning when I started the engine I noted after 30 secs of running it seemed a bit "cammy" at idle, this I thought was probably not how it should be even though it seemed kind of cool

It was same today as well, so I decided on a hunch that the airflow meter would be contaminated as is common once the cars have 80k km or more on them. Its a 2 minute job to clean. I removed the meter, flushed it with electroclean, blew it dry with compressed air and reinstalled it to note any change - completely changed, smooth as glass idle when cold now. I also noted fair less over run on the gearchanges, it really increased and held the rpm a bit too much I noted on trip home yesterday

All perfect now


Next item will be transmission oil, with 4 cyl Subaru we use and recommend REDLINE shock proof light. I dont know what the recommended oil weight for the 6 speed is yet but will match it up and fill with something decent. I will choose REDLINE if the viscosity matches or choose AMSOIL as the range available is slightly wider.

So, needing to know, what viscosity and how many liters for the 6 speed manual.............

[kleinerbastler]

Tim
Have a look at the throttle valve too, my one was very dirty and caused same symptoms.
I got in my Transmission and rear diff the Motul Gear 75w140 instead the subaru advice 75w90 - but i think your choice will be fine too.
For the transmission you need 3.5l and for the rear diff 0,8l.

[Tradewind]

Ing

Thanks very much for that info, you saved me some time looking up the data. Will get right in there today and buy the shock proof light from REDLINE and get that into gearbox and diff.

Is the diff LSD, I am thinking its not?

[kleinerbastler]

Tim,
the front diff is just an open diff, but you can install evry lsd that was build for Impreza STi 6MT without DCCD.
The rear one is a weak viscous LSD - not worth to be named LSD, but in the rear you can install evry LSD that was build for the Impreza WRX because both share the R160 diff body (not the STi stuff, because these have R180).
In my car i have quaife in front and rear - i think for street use the best choice - no special gear oil, no dying clutch packs and works smooth and loudless.

Tim, i was wrong the gearbox and front Diff have 4.1l not 3.5l (this amount have the 5MT cars).


Ingmar

[Tradewind]

Ing

Thankyou

I guess maybe the lube for the rear diff is a special one to suit the LSD?

I have noted your correction on fill volumes

When you cleaned the throttle body, you removed it or sprayed it out "in situ"?

[Tradewind]

Here it is in all its glory

[smythie]

Tim, some more info on oils for the 6 speed if you are still interested

http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=12232

[Tradewind]

Any input is welcome - couldnt get REDLINE today as retailer doesnt open Saturday

Thanks Smythie

Painting your parts today Ing, perfect hot sun for wrinkle finish paint

[kleinerbastler]

Tim,
the rear diff is a closed unit like the centre diff with a kind of silicon oil, so you can add normal gear oil to the gearwheels. Just clutchplatted LSD like Cusco or KAAZ need a special gear oil to work perfect.
The throttle valve i opened and sprayed and helped manual with a small cloth , but i had to do it more than one time, because of the very dirty surface - but after that it was a very smooth idle and hold the revs nice - i got some trouble with the idle, some times the engine died.

I hope you used no pink colour for my sc??