Which fuel r u using?

[cpitts]

Could someone please tell me why 2.0L NA's want 95 RON but 2.5NA's only need 91 RON?

The 2.0R is very highly tuned to get the stated peak power rating, hence 95 RON min.

The 2.5 has an extra 0.5l which makes a huge difference to torque and power, even at lower RON.

[Lucy]

Have always run Caltex 98 in my race bike's.

Lib seems to love Shell & BP, and do my best to never put anything under 98 in.

Combination of a few problems caused my Lib to go bang driving out of Kangaroo valley a few months ago [b](don't worry Ric, no, unhappy with, names mentioned).
Approx 10-15 minutes after filling up at servo JUST NORTH of Nowra, which advertised recent conversion/supply of 98 RON fuel, my motor loses almost all power and loud knocking noise starts:

Autotech findings:
(1) Minor impurities found in fuel sample.
(2) After Autotech approach Ecutek in London to unlock previous tune house flash tune, found timing advanced way too high, was 20dgrs on that tune, advised should have been 14dgrs max; that & fuel causing detination.
(3) Inconsistencies' found on previous tuner's Dyno sheet regarding barometric pressure and relative humidity percentage.

Implication's:
All Conrod to Crank bearings damaged beyond repair.
3 Conrods cracked damaged beyond repair.
3 piston's detinated, cracked & damaged beyond repair.
Crank Shaft cracked damaged beyond repair (don't know about you guy's, but I'm not repairing a cracked crank and re-using it!).
Engine block scored, sent to be machined, investigations found stress fracture's. Again, for me replace is better than repair.

When we bought our Liberty new, our dealer said to only service every 12,500km's. I thought I was doing the right thing by paying my mechanic to service every 5,000km's! Be sure to ask the right questions and stay at the work shop when your car is being worked on keep filters, brake pads, rotor's etc...

My new Mechanic, Spiro Autotech, gives me daily updates by phone and take photo's of everything done, new parts used and emails them to me, as well as encourages me to come to his work shop to watch the engine build and all other work done.

[cpitts]

Terrible news Corey. But sounds like a very bad tune is the issue here (as you stated from findings) more-so than fuel. A slightly bad batch of fuel has just shown the issue up. Sounds like the IDC would have been pushed to limitss as well. At least it sounds like it's in good hands for the rebuild!

[Gambit]

Sorry to hear Lucy , is it all sorted now?

[Lucy]

Terrible news Corey. But sounds like a very bad tune is the issue here (as you stated from findings) more-so than fuel. A slightly bad batch of fuel has just shown the issue up. Sounds like the IDC would have been pushed to limitss as well. At least it sounds like it's in good hands for the rebuild!

Yeah thanks cpitts! Like your do dads & you picked the right colour GT!
IDC?

[Lucy]

Sorry to hear Lucy , is it all sorted now?

HOPEFULLY by this Friday?????

[cpitts]

Yeah thanks cpitts! Like your do dads & you picked the right colour GT!
IDC?

Heheh, thanks. Must say, there's more stereo mods happening at the moment than car mods, but it's all good fun. And I've gotta say, the pearl white has grown on me...... even though black would have been my first choice.

IDC = Injector Duty Cycle.

Winding the wick up as far as it'll go on the OEM provided injectors quickly leads to the injector squirting rate (IDC) to get close to 100% of it's capacity. At this level, a bad batch of fuel, a lack of pressure in the fuel rail or just too much heat can quickly lead to cylinders leaning out, over heating (fuel acts as part of the cooling process) and detonation (fuel evapourates as soon as it enters the hot chamber).

too much heat = melt
too much det = bent hot metal
too much of above = bent bits, cracked bits and melted bits.... all which you have (sadly)

My advice would be to use a different tuner (if you change product, that's your call) but it's more about a good tuner (first) than a good product (second). It appears that your tuner's tune has let you down.

[coyote]

Don't worry Lucy, if you still have a VF46 your injectors are not at 100%.

Unless you have E85 in the tank and are driving around inside a below sea level deep freezer, that turbo just won't push enough air to max out the injectors.

[Lucy]

Thanks fella's!

I've been on this forum for just over a week, and have learned heaps! Only wish I found this when I bought Lucy.

[cpitts]

Don't worry Lucy, if you still have a VF46 your injectors are not at 100%.

Unless you have E85 in the tank and are driving around inside a below sea level deep freezer, that turbo just won't push enough air to max out the injectors.

How about dirty or gunked up injectors? The boxer isn't the cleanest engine.

Clearly from your comments though, the in the Libby GT/B/TB-STi (all the same) injectors are much more generously sized than all other turbo Subaru's that I've owned where pushing the delivered turbo to it's limits will see you hitting 90% IDC with ease (with upgraded fuel pump) and at these levels, a bit of starvation, dirt or water in the fuel will spell bad things when it comes to engine life (if only in the long term), esp if the car is under load (towing, heavily loaded, etc).

[Lucy]

What about track days?
Most of the mods in this forums profiles include an upgraded fuel pump! Looks like that will be my next mod, any advise on product & price?

[cpitts]

What about track days?
Most of the mods in this forums profiles include an upgraded fuel pump! Looks like that will be my next mod, any advise on product & price?

Options range from a simple in tank Walbro replacement to twin Bosch Motorsport with surge tank. Really depends how serious you want to be and how much compromise you have with noise and boot-space.

Reality states that most 'light' track day people would just upgrade the pump to an intank unit with higher volume flow rates to keep the pressure at the injectors so they can function at their optimum all the time.

[Lucy]

In car will be the go. My wife & I will do some advanced driver training & skid pan, then we are interested in getting involved in amateur hill climb. I have my bike for serious track stuff (sorry, cars are serious fun too, I think you know what I mean).

[cpitts]

in which case, if you're not sitting on the limiter around the skidpan then intake in tank replacement will be sufficient.

It might be worth getting your injectors flow tested while the engine is apart. At least then you'll know that all things are as they should be. It's not uncommon that injectors can flow at different rates which really doesn't help with tuning or even leaning one cylinder out.

[Lucy]

You know your stuff, that's exactly what Spiro said that he'll do!