Changing clutch and stuff

[vp920b]

Hi all,

Just wondering what do I need apart from clutch kit? Spigot bearing isn't it?

I got clutch pro kit, including flywheel and clutch.

Then what should I use for transmission+differential fluid? Wanna change all the transmission fluid + differential fluid.

And which workshop around burwood area that can change all this things?


Thanks all

Naldo

[Kekotic]

And which workshop around burwood area that can change all this things?

Hey Naldo.

Ross at Cromwood Auto in Burwood would be perfect for you.
He's a member of the WRX club and comes highly recommended.

http://maps.google.com.au/maps/place?hl ... 2288949977

[vp920b]

Thanks Kieran.

Will call tomorrow and arrange next week appointment..

Cheers

[vp920b]

Hi all,

just book with Ross on next friday.

Just wondering, which one is better for transmission fluid? Castrol syntrax? Or redline lightweight oil?

Then how about the oil for differential? What sort of brand that is good enough for a long time use?

Plus do someone know how roughly it costs to change suspension? Ross quote me $420 with wheel allignment, while pedders $500.

So for the suspension, is it too expensive? It only change the parts, plug n play(the billies spec B)+allignment.

Thanks

[Kekotic]

Go through the Tyrepower/Tempe thread and people listed how much they paid for installs of Billies.
Considering it's pretty easy to do yourself(minus wheel alignment).....$430 seems like a massive rip.

[teK--]

~$300.00 ($420.00 less $120.00 for a good alignment) for straight changeover of struts seems expensive for what is 1 hour of work with a hoist. I would have estimated $200.00 tops considering most mechanics charge $100-$120.00/hour. Make sure they are clear you don't need them to R&R the springs in case they have assumed this into their price.

I am using Syntrax for both gearbox and rear diff; have been very happy with it and it is the high performance fill recommended by STI Docklands (standard fill is Multitrax). From the reading that I have done Castrol also seem to have a better additive package specifically for Subarus, which have the front diff in the same lubricant as the synchros.

I have used both and the Syntrax is much smoother for high RPM shifts.

[mihai]

Try Advantage Suspension in Moorabbin regarding the billies installation. I got my H&R springs installed by them for $220 and that required taking the struts out, swapping over the springs and refitting the struts.

They have also worked on a few Liberties, including Sentinel's.

[vp920b]

Thanks Mihai, save me lots of money.. ehehehe..

They only quote me $220 including wheel allignment. Nice price.

Now I only need an answer about Spigot bearing, do I need to change them? Because Ross didn't tell me about that. Then Ross only said rear differential that needs to be change, is it rear and front or just rear? And how much is it costs for the good differential oil?


Thanks all

[Drew]

Hi Naldo,

I trust Ross implicitly with my cars... I have also used Advantage Suspension, and they do a great job...

I should imagine Ross was more expensive for suspension, as he's not a suspension specialist, and would probably take a little longer to do the work...

Cheers,

Andrew

[teK--]

I wouldn't say changing over complete struts is specialised suspension work... You don't even need a spring compressor.

[vp920b]

Just went back from Ross.

The clutch now freakin light.. Almost no feel to the pedal at all..

Long stroke pedal but when I want to release it, it almost in the end of the stroke.

I felt difficult on hills road.

Did anyone had the same problem? Why is it happening? I'm so can't drive right now, almost dead every time at hills or first gear..

I'm changing to the clutch pro kit, SMF. Cars run better and faster, the DMF seems almost twice heavier than the SMF. Now got torquey


Thanks

Naldo

[teK--]

If you're converting to SMF (lighter than DMF), you need to give it more revs now to start the car moving from standstill. It's because the flywheel has less momentum and will make it easier to stall if you don't rev it up a bit more.