looking to buy a 2004 MY05 3.0R things to look out for??

[DWDN]

It isnt the bars. Its the front diff that's the problem. Toe out on all corners for a static ackerman angle change along with a helical front LSD from an STI would fix everything. A DCCD centre left unpowered goes a long way too.

Fixed for accuracy, the 4kg center diff is actually a very good unit - front and rear diff need the loving. Although you tend to find that a front open diff will turn in better but let go from the apex (understeer out) whereas the torsen and plated diffs don't quite turn in as well but once they hit the apex they nearly pull the car around on itself with very high grip and low oversteer tentancies.

[kiks]

P plate legal fasts? Aurion or camry...

[Robbks]

P plate legal fasts? Aurion or camry...

Fast and Aurion/ Camry in the same sentence..?

[vaccine]

you both seem to have very little idea.

It isnt the bars. Its the centre and front diff that's the problem. Toe out on all corners for a static ackerman angle change along with a helical front LSD from an STI would fix everything. A DCCD centre left unpowered goes a long way too.

if you knew anything about the suspension in the Gen3-4's you would know straight away that they understeer firstly because the wheel base is way to long, but also because the spring rates in the rear are completely shitfull. simply change the rear spring to something that is 35% than the front, completely and utterly transforms the car. let alone changing all the other suspension bits as well. standard front/centre diff is fine, but i would fit a plated rear 2-way.

all gen 4's. Bars alone won't fix the problem -increasing the stiffness of the rear in relation to the front will make it worse while increasing the front stiffness will increase the tendency to understeer. a geometry change such as kiks has done may make a difference though. He's changed dampers too which will also change the way it performs.

so what your saying is that its bad the make the front swaybar bigger and not the rear, but also just as bad to change the rear swaybar and not the front... are you on crack?? after fitting a 22mm front and an adjustable 24mm rear it transformed the vehicle. There was no snap oversteer at all/ever, even on the race track and kharna cross events i did. Shocks are only usefull for control the springs, with too little the springs occilate and with too much the car is useless on an uneven surface.

the above toppled with a rear track increase, bracing, a lot more castor added to the front via tops and control arms, i could safetly say there is not another Gen3/4 out there that exists that could have out handled my old outback.

If you want your car to handle go and read my build thread.
might get you started.

[kiks]

Whoever was asking about shocks for a spec b:
http://performanceshock.com/ohlins/ohli ... -perch-kit
Is the cheapest quality gear you'll find.

Ring up and speak to Beau there if you're serious. He has one set left from memory. Fixed perch and fixed lower clevis = fully legal, adjustable inverted struts with ohlins quality and one of the top suspension mobs in the states able to accommodate any request you have for spring rates or valving.

Vaccine, I run a lower spring rate in the rear than front (by about 15n, but h6 > your sti convo for weight), stock front bar, rear roll centre raised up a fair chunk (probably why you run stiffer rears?). Car corners near on perfect. I have a bit more messing about to do like raise the rear about 5-10mm, helical front and a plated r180 rear, an 07 dccd box and sell the clunker liberty box. Only thing I can fault right now however is the little remaining wheel spin as the stock diffs cant cope at stock power let alone with a 35r strapped on. This was 95% eliminated with getting the ohlins set right. I'm hesitant to bother with a larger front sway bar as there really is no need right now. The limits of the tyres are easily reached (with a federal DOT semi slick) and its not like it is cocking a leg any more. Diffs will fix the wheel spin problem. Thing I like is the near stock ride they provide, whatever magic trickery valving they have is absolutely nothing close to any other coilover I've driven on. Yet they are so much more controlled than any other I've driven on when you lean on it. I dont see how stiffer springs could now help the back end when it is on the limit for lifting a tyre now. Anything more will just heat tyres up more and right now without a termal camera or pressure monitoring I can only assume theyre fairly well even from the 'ouch it hurts x amount' finger meter.

[kiks]

I also didnt mention the fact I have about 16mm larger track in the back with the pivot arm offset to positive camber, and the control arms pushing back to about 1.3deg neg. (whiteline bits but with larger crush tubes made to remove some of the compliance. Net result more track, infinitely adjustable camber, lowering subframe also means driveshafts can never pop as at full droop theyre still engaged fully and slack. Front scrub radius is much larger than stock with some big toe out in the front to offset this on corner exit. Turn in on my wags is like no other subaru I've been in. Sure beats the shit out of Az's gen 2 on falken's and apexi coilovers with adjustable everything and him happy with it. I'd really love it if you were in Brissy to have a drive as I know you're a muchos guru, there's a lot more for me to learn obviously.

[bates91]

probably the fastest non-turbo P-plate legal car in this category i can think of off the top of my head [but someone will probably prove me wrong]. Also chicks dig the leather interior...makes your car look even more luxurious

BMW, Audi, Merc, Lexus (IS300), etc

i was comparing the 3RB vs a BMW 530i Wagon
steptronic sports auto, etc.
but the Suby won me over simply due to AWD and wanting the manual again.

but when you move to sedans in the euro market you get a much bigger choice too

True...but what you can get for say 23k in a euro sedan vs a 3RB...imo the subaru wins outright
i was looking at an e46 coupe, accord euro, A4 etc before i chose the 3RB, none of them came close for me in terms of the overall advantages

[kiks]

350z, r32 gtr, e36 m3, import chaser, ba falcon 6sp auto and a go kart and trailer , gd wrx limited, gd sti, evo 7. Just depends what you're after. Those were my pics personally. A h6 wagon ticked every box as well as the go kart and tow car nothing euro that isn't 80's or an e55/e39 m5 is worth touching without a warranty.*

*mass generalisation, euro v8's ftw.

[bates91]

350z, r32 gtr, e36 m3, import chaser, ba falcon 6sp auto and a go kart and trailer , gd wrx limited, gd sti, evo 7. Just depends what you're after. Those were my pics personally. A h6 wagon ticked every box as well as the go kart and tow car nothing euro that isn't 80's or an e55/e39 m5 is worth touching without a warranty.*

*mass generalisation, euro v8's ftw.

mass generalisations are the beginning of all heated discussions/arguments on forums