Set up of adjustable sway bar

[Kekotic]

Jim what negative camber do you think would go well with my rear swaybar, RE050A's and Billies?
Or is it best to just ask at my local Bridgestone?

[teK--]

-1.0deg for each corner is good for everyday driving. You'll need to install a camber kit on the rear if it is out by much and you want to adjust it.

[Sentinel]

-1.0deg for each corner is good for everyday driving. You'll need to install a camber kit on the rear if it is out by much and you want to adjust it.

-1.0 rears for everyday driving? Dude, my car has this on the rears... -1.0 is not required for everyday. If you fang it like it do, then yes, otherwise, expect inside wear. My 2c.

[teK--]

It's really to provide more grip in the back for a car that is mostly daily driver.

E.g. I tried 0.5 on the rears and 1.0 on fronts but the back didn't feel as secure as I wanted on the road. 1.0 on all corners gives a good balance there is no break in traction unless intentionally unsettling the car; I would def recommend the higher camber for Kieran who is still getting used to his car.

Unless running higher camber like 2 or more deg (different car) I have found aggressive/incorrect toe settings to scrub tyres out worse than camber.

[smythie]

Keep in mind that the design of the rear suspension linkages in the Gen 4 liberties (can't talk for the rest) dials in negative camber as it compresses. Lowering the car will give you a head start on negative camber on the rear (but bring about other compromises)

[teK--]

If lowering then a camber kit should be fitted to correct the static camber, otherwise regular driving may end up scrubbing out the inside edge.

But yes, the multilink increases negative camber as well as toe-in when it compresses, which is why the back can step out if lifting off throttle or braking sharply mid corner because you end up with less toe in and negative camber when the rear wheels droop. My avatar is probably an exaggerated but nonetheless good illustration of this.

[Tank]

out of curiosity what is the stock camber set to. I was thinking of giving it a bit more but i dont really want to chew out the insides (since they cost a bit). my old car has -3 degrees but that is used mostly on the track so im not worried about its street tyres, which it chews insides out on fast.

[smythie]

My fronts are on -1 and haven't seen any inside wear. Handles well like that without any noticeable outside shoulder wear after a good fang

[vaccine]

Setup on the swaybar depends on what size the front and rears are. i have tried every concevable option of 20, 22, 24 in front and rears.
22mm on the front and 24mm on the rear is the best option for my driving.
otherwise a more sedate 20mm front and 22mm rear.anything more in front creates to much understeer.

On my wagon, i found the stock 20mm front and a 24mm adj on the rear was great for turn-in and oversteer, but left to much roll in the front causing it to fall over. I fitted a non adjustable 22mm front swaybar and picked up alot more mid-corner speed at a slight expense of initial turn-in. As for camber i run -2.15 up front and -1.3 in the rear. My tyre wear in the rear is prefect, front has scrub on the inside, though that is from running 2mm totol toe out and -3 camber from a previous track setup used on the street.

camber in the rear is not adjustable, you get what you get from a given ride height.
Unless you modify the rear trailing arms to allow for adjustment like mine are.