AVN 6000 to Mcintosh Amp?edit**CAN BE DONE!**

[F1Pilot]

Tangles, your a legend thanks!!
I have read your other thread about when you did your install. I know yours isnt the 6000, but would you care to share details about your install?

It is difficult for me, because I am overseas at the moment and cannot view the HU or read the manual. I will only be home for less than 2 weeks very soon and hope to complete the install then. Obviously I will need everything I require before then, to give me the best chance of a trouble free install.

I was looking for some info as to how the AVN is wired into the factory loom (exclude speakers at this stage)? So things like pwr,acc pwr, steering wheel controls, park brake sensor, blah,blah......

I have emailed Aerpro to see what plugs they have and hope fully I can make some very simple plug in looms with what they have, but I have no idea at this stage.

Photos would be awesome if you had them of your install.

Also, did you use the mounting brackets that came with the fascia kit, or something else?

Cheers,

[tangcla]

Not sure if the AVN6600 will work with the Eclipse steering wheel control module, but the AVN726EA can use the factory buttons with it. It doesn't affect me, the auto doesn't have steering wheel controls in favour of gearchange

Wiring loom is easy... only need four wires +12V constant, +12V acc, ground, and if you have an amp you just run the rest with RCAs and a remote lead

HOWEVER with the AVN6000 you will need to tap into the ECU's speed sensor wire, this will be a bit tricky.

[F1Pilot]

Great, its starting to sound a little bit easier now with your help and some more searching.
Does anyone else out there know what steering control module to use with the AVN6000 and the Subaru Liberty? I think it might be this one PAC SWI-ECL2v1, however I have no confirmation on this yet.
EDIT: This is the one the website is saying: http://www.pac-audio.com/swixprogrammin ... les&ID=245

But the first part number apparently supsercedes that, but the new part number doesn't say for Subarus?????

[F1Pilot]

Alright. I have finished the install today and will be writing it up with pics in my other thread.

For those who are interested, can the aftermarket HU be wired to the Mcintosh amp? YES YES YES. VERY SIMPLE!!!!!

Simply cut the old DIN plug that goes to the amp, splice it all open, and solder on female RCA ends. Then plug your output RCAs from the HU to these. Done, works, simple.

You will also need to run a amp-on pwr wire to one of the DIN wires. I used a pinout found through this forum, however my left channels were rights and fronts were backs!!! No big deal, just swapped the RCAs around.

It sounds great and with the EQ set and LOUD on, it sounds pretty good and loud to me!!!

Any questions, feel free to ask.

Cheers guys.

[F1Pilot]

Here is some pics of the standard plug that plugs into the McIntosh amp, spliced open and wired to 3 sets of RCAs. Front/Rear and Sub.


I made up a small bracket that held the RCAs nicely next to the amp.


So there ya go, proof that yes this can be done and is quite simple. Cost me about $6.00 from Jaycar.

[SUB4RU]

Hey, would splicing the 20pin DIN cable and soldering RCA's on work if you were keeping the stock head unit and putting in an aftermarket amp? Also, could you please post a link to the 20pin wiring diagram as I can't find it anywhere.

I want to hook up my Alpine mrp300 to the stock head unit if i can.

If you have the other half of that DIN cable and it's female, I would send you some money for it Then i can plug into my plug that goes to my amp and just splice into the wires from ur old cable.

[F1Pilot]

I imagine that would work, however I dont know how good it will be. The wires inside the cable are extremely small, and I'm not sure about the signal that comes out of the HU. If I already had an amp, I would do the HU at the same time.

However here is the pinout of the plug

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There is some noise associated with splicing the cable open. My solution is temporary until I can afford an amp, but the noise is very minimal(ie when the sound is going you cannot hear it) and I dare say better sheilded RCAs would probably fix it. But Im sure that RCAs straight to an amp will sound much better.

As for the cable, I would have no probs just sending it to you for nothing, however I am out of the country at the moment and the left over cable is actually still under the carpet. I wont be home for another 9 weeks unfortunately.

Hope that helps.

[SUB4RU]

Thanks heaps. I will try and remember to ask for it again in 9 weeks...I can wait as the McIntosh isnt't too bad, just prefer my music louder

[SVXdc]

Thanks for posting that pin-out. Looks like it's a portion of the schematics. Do you have the rest?

There's a small typo on that -- pin 15 on the round drawing is shown as another pin "13".

On the McIntosh system, the signals are balanced/differential. So you may want to only use the + signals into the tips of the RCAs, and use the shield pins for the shields of the RCAs.

[F1Pilot]

Well picked up!! I almost forgot about that. I picked that up, working out which pin was which wire. Also the advice I received from an audio shop who had done this a few times, was to wire the shield wire with the negative speaker wire onto the RCA. Seems to work.

That is the only diagram I have at the moment, that is the amp plug. Im not sure if the HU end is laid out the same.

[SUB4RU]

Don't suppose you have something that shows what colour each wire? Instead of following it from the pin and pulling each one out individually?

[F1Pilot]

No sorry mate I dont, however just use the function that beeps at you on your multimeter. (sorry I cant remember that functions name). If your not aware of it, when you select that function, all you do is touch one terminal to a pin and the other one on each wire until you get a tone from the multimeter.

[SUB4RU]

Thanks, i will check it out.