Another update, I've slowly had parts arriving (that won't be going on for a while)
TGV deletes
Fuel rails
Injectors
Just fuel lines/fpr to get and my new fueling system will be ready.
Something that I actually did fit, is a fuel pump wiring harness from Ryder Racing
All the usual fuel pump removal stuff
Holes drilled in the cover for wire grommets
Holes drilled in the fuel pump cover (don't drill where I did, one of the holes is right in the way of the cover bracket)
Bulkheads and wires connected. The bulkheads are a bit different on the Liberty compared to the wrx as the Libertys have plastic covers with reinforcement pieces but it still works
Grounds connected
Find the fuel pump power wire to use as the trigger (I used a multimeter, the power wire is the Green with a yellow stripe)
Power and ground connected to the bulkheads
Pump assembly back in (you can see where I had to cut the bracket). At this point I also checked to make sure that my wiring was correct by checking to make sure the pump started when the ignition was on.
Cover back on
Tidy the wiring and run power to the battery, I ran mine down the side of the car with the rest of the loom.
Finally put the seat back and make sure your car starts
I did forget to delete the code for the stock fuel pump, so I got a CEL because the ECU isn't getting the correct voltage (no surprises there)
I was also having a stumble, from about 2-3krpm the car would fall on its face.
After some diagnostics, I thought it was one of the AVCS solenoids, luckily I had a spare which I could swap over.
While a bit of a pain, it wasn't too awful to swap, just had to remove one section of fmic piping and pull off a breather line on each side.
What is annoying is that it hasn't fixed the problem. I've cleaned the maf, put a can of uec through, and reset the ECU. I'll check all the grounds and probably end up changing plugs and coils.
I also fixed and fit my LED tail lights, I like how they tie into the rest of the car's look.
I am also DAMDless at the moment, but hopefully that will be remedied as soon as my wheel gets back... Here's a sneak peek:
I bought an auto dimming mirror.
Upon going to fit it I found that AUDM cars don't seem to have the convenient plug for the mirror to clip straight into like their USDM counterparts. I initially had some trouble finding a wiring diagram, but I found a forum post which said that in their car
Blue=switched +12
Green=+12 when in reverse
Black=ground
I didn't realise the mirror came with an inbuilt compass, but I was only able to find a compass zone map from Subaru for North America (Given the mirror seems to have been a Subaru of America option, not hugely surprising).
After a bit of searching I found a Hyundai map list which included Australia, I double checked that the US zones were the same for Hyundai and Subaru to make sure the Australian zones would also work out. For ease (hopefully) of people who may be doing this in the future I have included the map for Australia below.
Before going too far (running wires etc) I decided to see if the mirror actually mounted to the windscreen button... No luck.
It seems that other Subarus and the USDM Legacys use a different mounting type which have adapters which are easy to find. After a fair bit of sleuthing online I found that a lot of Audis and VW seem to use a very similar system to attach the mirror, using that I could find an adapter for the mirror itself. AMB1 is an adapter for Gator dashcam mirrors to Audi, but the mounting style looks the same as the dimming mirror so I ordered one to see if it would work or could be made to work. The adapter arrived and it needed some modification to fit, with a bit of dremeling it slipped over the windscreen mount. Unfortunately it seems that on the cars with these mirrors the windscreen mount is lower down than on cars without them so I was unable to put the mirror into an appropriate position.
Not sure what I'll do there, but I'll figure something out eventually.
Still no further progress on the turbo oil issue, I completely re-routed the catch cans, this made no difference. I double checked the oil turbo feed and the banjo hole looks to be 1mm (I figured this wouldn't be the issue as it used to be fine and is what came with the turbo).
It definitely seems like a crankcase pressure problem. I have borrowed a boost gauge and made a crankcase pressure tester, but so far I haven't had any conclusive results.
I really hope it is a plumbing issue, and not a bad piston rings problem.