MY04 Liberty GT - FrankenStien - EOI welcome / FS

[dr20t]

Nos gets my vote

Nos is not a bad option but legality wise is a no no on the street even if disconnected. So bit of a pain to make work without headaches

Cheap though - $500 will get me going. And bottle will last ages as its only to spray a tiny amount when stalling up

[SH30RB]

Unless the rules have changed recently, I was reading up about it 6 or so months ago.

You are allowed to have a full bottle of NOS, but not connected up to the engine in any way

or

If it is connected up, the bottle must be empty.

Those are the only two legal ways of having a NOS system in your car on NSW roads

[Jack_Keaka]

Nos gets my vote

Nos is not a bad option but blah blah blah yadda yadda.
Cheap though - $500 will get me going. And bottle will last ages as its only to spray a tiny amount when stalling up

easily hidden. do it! think of the children.

[dr20t]

Simon the rules changed about 2 years ago to align with QLD

No nos to be carried in the vehicle at all. Including even lines being present

The ruling regarding nos carriage has to do with EPA and enviro protection for safe handling and transport of "dangerous goods"

The nos bottle is seen to be a potential protectile missile if punctured.

Even transporting it to a racing track for eg is extremely difficult without relevant licenses and approvals

Jack I think I may just go ahead mate

Mick

[SH30RB]

Ahh I stand corrected Mick

[dr20t]

Does anyone think a water/meth injection kit would help spool the turbo if I spray it on the Convertor?

I literally need a tiny spike in power to help it climb to 7psi and from there it will build boost on its own

[kiahatsiu]

I think some form of anti lag is the go.
I spent an hour of my last flight thinking about how to get heat into the headers by adjusting the timing so it was firing really late. It took me that long to remember that Matt already can do that. Is there anything commercially available other than just adding fuel and retarding timing? Something that pumps air into the up pipe at the same time?
I know this sounds really odd, but are there ever events where the staging time isn't that long? Drive around, stage for 2 min..boom...run a number. Hmm. Are you Andra licenced with the Gemini? At willowbank if you are licenced you have a licenced lane and could pretty much just drive up, wait for 2 runs then run.

[dr20t]

Yeah antilag is preferable over the nos but I can't get this thing to work tried multiple things all day today. No go

My andra licence needs to be renewed and even then for the Wednesday night races there's no special treatment you line up like everyone else. Impossible to have a quick run straight in except for if you get lucky and drive in after scrutineering. Even then due to waiting for scrutineering and registration the headers would've cooled down.

I reckon without the nos my best bet is to get there early, register, go through scrutineering, drive out and get the headers warm then wait for someone to tell me my lane is moving then drive in as one of the last cars. That's the only way.

I did find one interesting thing today though when playing with my ecu tune for antilag. If I remove timing from the stall up load zone (where it hits a wall and stays there when headers are cold - which is at 2500rpm) - if I reduce timing in this load zone (say down from total timing of 35 degrees to 25 degrees, it loses some power but spools a little easier. So maybe that's a way I can try tinkering to get it to spool up when cold on the brake.

Will trial some other values tomorrow and see what happens.

Mick

[dr20t]

Oh and for the record if I do go nos ill be upgrading the huffer to a gtx3582 0.82 for more powaah up top

[bigBADbenny]

http://m.racedandrallied.com/technical- ... lag-system

[dr20t]

Haha thanks Benny - hmmm seems practical...

I'm going to have a play tomorrow with a few things:

- exhaust avcs cam timing - looking to retard a little more at 2000-3000rpm (when brake boosting makes 2psi when headers cold).

- reduce total timing in this zone to 10-15 degrees total

- add 20% fuel to richen it to 12.5:1 odd at 2-3psi.

This will be a drag only rom

The reduced ignition timing and increased exhaust cam retard will definitely sap some power / torque out of the engine in normal driving. But on the brake it should increase egt and thus spool so should give me that slight kick I need when headers are cold.

Will update thread with findings

[jslayz]

Very interesting indeed.

[dr20t]

Alot of little things annoying me with the car at present which I'm fixing this weekend:

- still have a pre turbo exhaust leak killing my spool. All manifold / turbo gaskets are being replaced this weeken with grimmspeed 2x oem thickness gaskets

- spark plugs being changed and regapped to suit my needs. Have found a great set of factory ngk plugs from another car that will work great with my setup

- fixing a rattling rear muffler that is annoying me

- machining rear discs that are squeaking

- change front wheel bearings

- pulling the kw's out which I have taken a deposit on and putting some stock bilsteins back in until the shockworks are ready

- all fluids being changed (except auto trans).

Hope to solve a stumble that is happening as soon as it comes on boost. Would love some opinions on whether people think this is related to a pre turbo exhaust leak or maybe a misfire from the plugs?

It hesitates as it hits 1psi and struggles to rev then pops and farts with a slight miss if I stay on part/ medium throttle under load of about 1.8 - 2.0 g/rev (slight elevation or uphill). This is also the transition point into open loop.

Afr from my wideband goes to around 14.2:1 which is lean and my primary open loop fuel map is asking for 13.2:1 at this point not 14.2. Decreasing this to even 11:1 still doesn't fix it. Same as increasing maf scaling at that maf voltage (tried increasing by something ridiculous like 20% just to see what it does and it still goes lean)

I'm thinking its exhaust leak (leaking air and throwing my stock 02 sensor out while transitioning from closed loop so it stays in closed loop as the ecu compensates for the reduced air by pumping in then removing fuel to target stoich of 14.7);

or spark plug/ coil related (misfire)

Any advice welcomed/ appreciated

Mick

[Deep Heat]

Let me come over to watch you fix shit so I can have memories to jerk over later.

And do you even know what stoich means. Lot's of people like throwing it around I'm not entirely convinced most of you know what it means.

[dr20t]

Let me come over to watch you fix shit so I can have memories to jerk over later.

You really won't believe me - but I had a very very weird feeling you would be the first to reply to this update with something deviant and twisted

Lol

You are a real mess

You can come and watch. And service me while I service the car