VIP GT-BBB

[cliffo3rb]

Cheers!

A few things done:

Did the 3 x 2" heater hose on fuel lines near the LHS firewall, insulated the wideband lead with some flex conduit, zip tied some random looms to prevent rubbing, added more foam to prevent all engine bay covers from rattling...

It's working! No buzzing

The 6mt lost some oil when I broke the seal replacing the driveshaft so I bought 1L Syntrax (it's a Docklands STi serviced car, thanks Gino for the info) and 2 x $1 SCA flex funnels and added 500ml
In my case, 500ml is the difference between the low and high marks.

I removed and lubed the heater vent motor but alas not a total fix, it still murmurs a little after key off.
Maybe there's another motor on the drivers side?
Could that be a normal behavior?
Perhaps I'll look into any HVAC self diagnostic modes...

And I finally installed the Filtermag from the recent OzFoz GB, on my recently changed OEM filter.
Just another inexpensive, peace of mind (snake oil) mod I find irresistible

I broke my oil seal when refitting the drive shaft after the clutch replacement. It was a bitch to remove!

You don't happen to have the part number for that seal do you? Mine is leaking smurfs blood everywhere.

[bigBADbenny]

I don't have it, maybe try Opposed Forces.

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/e ... tration_3/

Looks like: 8 Baffle plate-doj 28337AG010 ?

It cost just $60 in total to get it done properly at A1 Driveshafts, not sure if the boss gave me a compassionate discount...

TBH I've had a brief look at Opposed Forces in the past but never persisted looking for my car: an early postFL, meaning '06, April — '07, June, but eventually I found it and have linked to the directory in my Sig.

Id still like a Workshop Service Manual PDF for that specific mode if anyone has it, I'm not 100% that mine are specifically for the early postFL.

[cliffo3rb]

Cheers BBB.I'll let you know how I go with it.

[cooki_monsta]

You don't happen to have the part number for that seal do you? Mine is leaking smurfs blood everywhere.

Are you after the driver's side? I'll go hunt it down when I get home tonight. Send me a PM if I forget. They're about $20 only.

[cliffo3rb]

You don't happen to have the part number for that seal do you? Mine is leaking smurfs blood everywhere.

Are you after the driver's side? I'll go hunt it down when I get home tonight. Send me a PM if I forget. They're about $20 only.

Passenger side actually. Should be the same though?

[bigBADbenny]

There's only one part number listed so I'd guess yes.

[cooki_monsta]

There's only one part number listed so I'd guess yes.

+1 ...it's symmetrical anyway haha

...duuhhh

Check my instagram for the part number

[bigBADbenny]

28337AG010 ?

So is the correct postFL driveshaft install technique to put the seal on the driveshaft first, then the circlip, locating both items concentrically with grease, and then to guide it home carefully... ?

I don't have access to the manual atm

Edit: nope, seal in first so it's all in the alignment so best have an assistant and plenty of light.
http://www.rexnet.com.au/forum/index.ph ... h-install/

[cooki_monsta]

28337AG010 ?

So is the correct postFL driveshaft install technique to put the seal on the driveshaft first, then the circlip, locating both items concentrically with grease, and then to guide it home carefully... ?

I don't have access to the manual atm

Edit: nope, seal in first so it's all in the alignment so best have an assistant and plenty of light.
http://www.rexnet.com.au/forum/index.ph ... h-install/

Yeah, the seal comes with the circlip as a single item. It's a bitch to take out the original one...

http://web.stagram.com/p/599140974559616706_11660118

806735300 is the number you're after.

[bigBADbenny]

Thanks for that! I'll be sure to ask at Subaru or Makin & Luby about the differences in the part numbers.
I guess Opposed Forces shows individual part numbers whereas the packet is essentially a retail service kit of 2 parts.

[bigBADbenny]

806735300: plot thickens!
Googling that part number reveals it's a Rhs seal
Personally I'd be getting a quote by VIN from M&L if I needed one...
For me this is more about understanding how to use the Opposed Forces website properly.

[alexeiwoody]

I got me some Clark Rubber sticky rubber foam and some dry graphite lube for ze plastic actuator...Now it just needs to stop raining so I can take the glovebox out

Awesome! Keep us posted...
I'm looking for those giant wood handled q-tips and plastic friendly grease - plumbing grease maybe?

Woohoo took out the glovebox today, and took out the bottom passenger side actuator. Couldn't really reach the top one. Took the bottom one apart and tried to lube things up. After much frustration and no progress with the noise levels, something to add to legacygt.com:

I found that they don't need to be re-lubricated, plenty of lube there. The problem for me was inside the actuator - the big white wheel (which I didn't remove, didn't want to break it..), has metal contacts pressing against it to sense it's position (ie so the car knows where the level is). Pretty sure there was a whole heap of lube on the contacts or they were just dirty - cleaned them out and voila! no more hesitation, no more back and forth shuddering of the lever.

Smooth air con and no more annoying noise! Looks like the sensors were getting a bad signal and tried to constantly readjust the lever to get it into position, so instead of a smooth "shift and stop" I had a "shift and shift and shift..etc"

The bottom actuator moves when you switch the passenger temp from hot to cold (or vice versa), the top actuator works the vent positions (mode button). Play with the buttons to see which one is playing up.

Thanks again for the find, Ben

[bigBADbenny]

Excellent! So how exactly did you clean them, did you flow some solvent or contact cleaner across the contacts?

I also hit the electric motor with some aerosol lube through the air holes as they have a tendecy to collect graphite dust from the brushes.
The thing is, there's 2 of those actuators and I'm sure that the other, drivers side has the issue, so that's next on the to do list.

The mystery buzz came back, and on further exploration of the engine bay I've zip tied thick black pipe insulation foam to the main loom mount and a small diameter pipe that runs along the firewall on the passenger side.
I'm fairly sure the buzz was coming from the firewall insulation flapping on the firewall

The TV-out Tasker profile works great and I'm hoping to have the whole install wrapped up soon with a write up too.

[cooki_monsta]

806735300: plot thickens!
Googling that part number reveals it's a Rhs seal
Personally I'd be getting a quote by VIN from M&L if I needed one...
For me this is more about understanding how to use the Opposed Forces website properly.

I tend to get such parts from Subaru - they have my rego details so they are able to figure what it is that I need... but not always (-.-)



I don't trust mechanics...

[bigBADbenny]

Gotta trust the right mechanics



So imagine standing at the passenger side guard looking at the camber top.
I've laid the RHS top over the LHS top.
Adding more top caster looks possible at the expense of some top camber!