Member Profile - ~TheProxy~ - Updated First Post

[jslayz]

oh man, real pain about the bolt getting rounded!!

It will be all worth it when it starts and you get to drive it

Hopefully see you n wagz at the next cruise.

J

[~TheProxy~]

yeah hopefully, still got a big list though, seats, seatbelts, mirror, immobilizer, uhf radio, light bar, spotties, spare tire, blah blah blah it's all good fun to do though,

found this parcel at my front door today yippee!





Yay cupholders! i didn't know this to begin with but i saw that spot between the radio and the aircon bits and started pulling at it saying "where are the cupholders!?" just thinking it should have some there, turns out i was right hahaha so got this lot and real keen to put it in

[Dropz]

Tip for the future: use impact single hex sockets for flywheels/flex plates/pulley bolts. they are always damn tight and impact sockets are unlikely to break.

otherwise good luck sounds like it's making decent progress.

[~TheProxy~]

Tip for the future: use impact single hex sockets for flywheels/flex plates/pulley bolts. they are always damn tight and impact sockets are unlikely to break.

otherwise good luck sounds like it's making decent progress.

That's exactly what i thought, it's those darker coloured ones right? i only had my normal type single jex available and my mate only had double hex sockets (lol wtf?) but yeah this is what saved us in the end,





it cut into the head of the bolt and pulled it out we had spares and all is dandy,

[jslayz]

Sweet progress!!

[Dropz]

Yeah the black single hex sockets are impact.

Out of interest how much we're those bolt removers? I'm thinking about getting a set for work...

[~TheProxy~]

Yeah the black single hex sockets are impact.

Out of interest how much we're those bolt removers? I'm thinking about getting a set for work...

I'm not sure my friend bought them, they are mighty useful though I'll ask him and let you know, I think he got them from Toolmart.

[~TheProxy~]

having some trouble, pretty sure I have the IAC controller plumbed wrong, pretty sure I have the fuel pressure regulator plumbed wrong, also the large bung on the drivers side on an EJ22 intake manifold is on the other side on an EJ25 and I got no idea where to plumb it too I thought it was for the charcoal canister but all it's hoses are accounted for, I'm gonna edit a photo of the old intake manifold and circle bit's I'm having trouble with if anyone with a normal gen2 can take photo's with more detail to help me put mine back together would be awesome,

mines in pieces and at my mates place, otherwise I'd take new photos of what I'm dealing with right now,

I may look up some diagrams if I can find one on the net which may sort my issues but yeah, any help would be great, basically I took apart the 2.5 manifold and put the 2.2 loom onto it, also quite a few vacuum and plastic bits were perished and I used 2.2 manifold pieces to replace them which meant I basically had to remove more than I hoped and couldn't remember how it all went back together,

another question is, does the ECU fire the injectors one bank at a time or separate cylinders at a time, because the injector looms aren't labelled and I'm not sure if they are hooked up correctly

[~TheProxy~]

the large bung on the drivers side on an EJ22 intake manifold is on the other side on an EJ25 and I got no idea where to plumb it too I thought it was for the charcoal canister but all it's hoses are accounted for

turns out this is for the brake master servo vacuum feed,

I still don't know how to plumb the IAC or the fuel pressure reg, the little vacuum plug on top of the throttle body after the butterfly does that do to the little electric vacuum thingo under the intake manifold? then where does the pipe go from there?

also does the fuel pressure regulator take it's feed straight from the manifold runners or does it take it from the top of the throttle body and it's the other way around???

[Dropz]

fuel pressure reg goes straight off the manifold. the one on top of the TB dives under the manifold somewhere. never paid too much attention to it so no idea what its for. but it only has vacuum under certain conditions.

[~TheProxy~]

fuel pressure reg goes straight off the manifold. the one on top of the TB dives under the manifold somewhere. never paid too much attention to it so no idea what its for. but it only has vacuum under certain conditions.

I found diagrams here Which sorted that out, it dives under the manifold onto the right hand port of the little IAC thing (if standing in front of the car) then the left hand port goes onto a hard line that runs with the fuel lines, turns out I fluked it all anyway

Still had some problems though, PCV hoses wouldn't reach nor would the brake servo vacuum lines, I made some joiners out of hard plastic pipe and used rubber pipes to lengthen them and used hose clamps where possible, also cut up some old heater hoses for other various bits, got it all sorted in the end and apart from a small fuel leak (loose clamp) after first start all seemed well,

it was a little clacky but I assumed it was a lifter or something that had been sitting for too long and needed to build up oil pressure etc.

after revving at 2.5 and adjusting the throttle cables it seemed to calm down to about 1.2 for a while and then the exhaust putty made huge clouds and we killed the engine and opened the doors,


added some more coolant, re checked the oil level and added some ATF as well then decided to go for a victory lap, All was well, moved off lightly and the front wheels started fighting for traction? this is new, pulled out onto a main street and span the wheels into 2nd and kept spinning,

HAHAHA didn't do that before!

Temperature started going up so I opened the heater to try and get some air out of the system and so on and it went back to operating temperature, then bam the revs dropped straight to zero and AT OIL TEMP showed on the dash it then went off again and the engine came back on, I started to lost 4th and 3rd, not enough fluid I thought so I drove to a service station and bought some more (it was late at night charged me an arm and a leg for it ) all seemed well it started again all gauges read fine then all of a sudden it shut off again, oil and handbrake lights were on and the coolant temp went all the way past H off the Dial and hit the side of the cluster?

I took the keys out and it stayed that way, interior fan still on and gauges still on? what the hell? I tried to start it again, it would crank but no start, I stopped trying in case my battery would die and I'd be stuck at a servo at 3am :s

after going through all he fuses I found "unit back up" was blown and quite a few were the wrong way around so I sorted all that and the car was happy again, made it out onto the road and up to a set of lights turned right and then it just shut off again, I was going up a hill so I barely made it onto the kerb, the gauges did the same thing as before but this time all the fuses were fine, only thing that would seem to fix it was taking the battery off and on again but it still would shut off before I moved off then after a while nothing seemed to fix it,

anyway, I have absolutely no idea where to start with fixing this, it's just spazzed out, I don't understand how it ran perfectly fine for about half an hour though, I mean if it was an ecu problem or something like that being that it's a 2.5eng on a 2.2ecu wouldn't it have just not started at all?

if anyone knows more about these engine swaps and knows something I've missed I'd be eternally grateful, I managed to tow the car home because my friend who let me use his garage is away for two weeks,

I really want my Lib back

[Dropz]

Are all the sensors the same on the engines, crank gears same etc.? (although if it was this it wouldn't have run in the first place)

Did you end up changing the trans?

Go over every single wiring plug you unplugged, unplug them, spray contact cleaner into both sides and reconnect. Make sure there are no bent pins shorting out.

Recheck all your grounding wires, to the battery, chassis, heads, starter motor etc.

[~TheProxy~]

Are all the sensors the same on the engines, crank gears same etc.? (although if it was this it wouldn't have run in the first place)

Did you end up changing the trans?

Go over every single wiring plug you unplugged, unplug them, spray contact cleaner into both sides and reconnect. Make sure there are no bent pins shorting out.

Recheck all your grounding wires, to the battery, chassis, heads, starter motor etc.

Well the plugs that lead to the engine weren't the same so i swapped the 2.2 loom onto the engine, i had to change the knock sensor but everything else matched up fine, it's possible the wires are different though even if the plugs did fit, and like you said if it was crank/cam sensors it probably wouldn't of started at all, the earth goes to the little tab coming off the gearbox near the starter motor, i also added another earth straight to the block, and the intake manifold loom's earth goes into the manifold,

it's got to be something electrical but where to start i don't know, and if it turns out the 2.2 loom isn't compatible with the 2.5 then there would be an extra plug on the 2.5 loom with nowhere to go? is it possible i need a 2.5 ecu cluster and so on? i figured because it was a gen2 2.5 i'd be ok

[Dropz]

Check the timing is still ok also. May have skipped a tooth.

Otherwise I'd be rechecking it all. I wouldn't think it needs a different ecu. It should be able to detect that it's using more air and compensate the fuel accordingly. Maybe try fitting an aftermarket trans cooler also. The AT OIL TEMP light means the ATF fluid is getting too hot and burning.

[Dropz]

Check the timing is still ok also. May have skipped a tooth.

Otherwise I'd be rechecking it all. I wouldn't think it needs a different ecu. It should be able to detect that it's using more air and compensate the fuel accordingly. Maybe try fitting an aftermarket trans cooler also. The AT OIL TEMP light means the ATF fluid is getting too hot and burning.