time for new brakes

[LBR37Y]

So what are the differences in slotted rotors and the rotors with all the holes in it??

Like would you only put the pre drilled holes one on the front or rear??? Or what??

[HyRax]

Slotted rotors help to scrape the pads more evenly ensuring that they stay flat. The slots also act as a simple visual indicator to show when your rotors have worn out too. The slots are also slightly longer than the contact area of the brake pad, allowing gasses that build up to vent instead of the pad scooting across the surface of the disc like a how hovercraft hovers on a bed of air, or like how bald tyres aquaplane on a very wet road.

Cross-drilled is supposed to also allow gasses to escape somewhere as well, however in my experience, it just weakens the rotor by encouraging cracks in the disc. For example, when the disc gets very hot after a spirited run down a mountain or on a track day, if it is not cooled properly, then cracks can quickly develop between holes. If the cracks get severe enough, they can spread to the hat of the rotor and the disc can quite literally explode. Exploded rotor means nothing for the pistons of the brake caliper to press onto, hence no brakes at all for all four wheels because brake pressure cannot be maintained. Very dangerous. In some cases, you can go driving, park at home and everything is fine, but then discover the next morning that your rotors have cracked (but not exploded) making for a clunk-clunk-clunk effect as you brake. As such, cross-drilled is generally relegated to the bling brigade for street-use only.

Since the rears do less work, there is little chance that cross-drilled rears would crack, however it would look a bit weird having drilled rears and slotted fronts IMO. Just go slotted front and rear.

[cruisn]

There is no benefit in going slotted over plain for everyday driving.

[LBR37Y]

Well I just bought some pads off jacks-GTB for bout 230$
And bout 4 dba 4000 T3 rotors and some Penrite Sin600 Dot 4 brake fluid for 880$ del
And waiting on another member to send me photos on some 6line Techna Fit braided lines for $100

Is there anything I'm missing???

And I still need to get the labour to put it on

[HyRax]

There is no benefit in going slotted over plain for everyday driving.

Agreed.

Is there anything I'm missing???

Nope, that's everything.

And I still need to get the labour to put it on

If you don't have a flare nut tool, then the lines might be a bit tough if they're sticky, but if you have a standard metric socket or spanner set and a rubber mallet, you can easily do the rotors and pads yourself. Don't bother with the new brake fluid until you get the lines done.

[LBR37Y]

So I don't need that thing to stop the brake fade??

I forget what its called

[HyRax]

Brake fade is when the pads have reached their limit of friction on the rotors, or are skating along on trapped gas over the top of the rotors. You can only change your pads and rotors to directly prevent brake fade (and that includes larger rotors for big brake upgrades to increase friction surface area).

Beyond that is better brake fluid for a higher boiling point, and a master brake cylinder brace to stop the firewall flexing, but neither of those will directly prevent brake fade - they enhance the firmness of pedal and the transfer of force to the calipers.

[rooby]

Slotted can potentially also increase noise and pad wear, for little benefit.

I believe a large number of motorsports use plain solid discs.

I did my lines, discs and pads last weekend and the only plac I could find flare wrenches without driving far was super cheap.
I can confirm their wrenches are shit and can easily f your lines (some of them were mighty stuck even after much wd40) if you aren't careful. In the end I found that carefully using decent regular spanners was better than shitty flares.

I didn't need a mallet.
Your pads should come with grease. If not you will need some copper grease.
2x 8mm bolts are good to have in case the discs are stuck on. They probably will be. They don't have to be overly long.
Sockets n spanners. You will need a couple of different length socket extensions to get to some of the bolts. The upper bolt holding the rear caliper is a bit of a bitch to get to.
Flat head screw driver for park brake adjustment / removal of rear discs.
Small Breaker bar is handy for a couple of the bolts on the front.
Some brake cleaner or similar to clean old crap off calipers.
If you aren't doing the lines at the same time, some wire to hold the calipers up hen they are unbolted, so thy aren't swinging off the lines.

I think that about covers it.

I found the job to be a bit of a bitch but it was my first time and I'm a bit of a knob head.

[LBR37Y]

Thanks for all the feedback guys VERY helpful and I'll give it a crack over the weekend maybe lol or a few weekends away??


But yeah thanks heaps again!!

[rooby]

Oh yeah, a g clamp is handy for pushing the caliper pistons back in.

[ditts]

Hey guys
Jumping on the end of this thread guys and my question is
What are the best pads for stock gt calipers and rotors(Points for no dust)
thanks

[HyRax]

I didn't need a mallet.

I use the mallet to move stubborn caliper bolts, but the breaker bar does the same job of course.

Oh yeah, a g clamp is handy for pushing the caliper pistons back in.

I usually use the old pad's backing plate to pry the pistons back.

Hey guys
What are the best pads for stock gt calipers and rotors(Points for no dust)

Depends on your intended use. In most cases, street pads are not really suited to the track and vice-versa. EBC Green Stuff aren't too bad for street and very low dust IMO.

[senator]

Slotted rotors help to scrape the pads more evenly ensuring that they stay flat. The slots also act as a simple visual indicator to show when your rotors have worn out too. .

Only on very cheap rotors which have cosmetic slots, the slots should be deeper that the minimum rotor thickness for the them to be effective.

There is no benefit in going slotted over plain for everyday driving.

+1

[LBR37Y]

Well knowing I got the DNA 4000s T3 and I'll be doing everyday driving with occasional street squirt, these should be more then enough for me...

[kiks]

I wouldnt put slotted or drilled rotors on, absolute wank, unless theyre cheaper for slotted. Give me a full face disc and less noise, longer pad life etc any day of the week. Literally millions of cars work just fine with full face rotors.

As above, brembos 1500, rotors $6-700 more accurately, you dont need 4000;s, you need the bog stock run of the mill stuff from DBA, they just work. and are cheap
Pads: $220 for QFM HPX which are nothing short of excellent and perfectly suited to a daily and weekend warrior.
Lines...stock lines work, why replace them?
Brake master cyl brace, you use less pedal pressure with brembos due to larger swept pad area and larger piston c/s area. Do that later.
Fluid: Anything 4.1 from supercheap will do
Adaptors from cruisn.

Can of black caliper paint and 30 mins to spray them ghetto style if you're that way inclined to not want to show shit off.

I think 2500 is perfect to aim for, I just sold my complete setup with multiple sets of pads and shit for 2200 on ebay a week ago.