Brake upgrade kit WILWOOD

[jacks-GTB]

ay fellow libs...

I'm thinking of purchasing these wilwood brake upgrade kit - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/150630411929 ... 1423.l2649

I wanted to know if anyone had purchased wilwood brakes & whether these will fit my 07 GT & and whether they fit my standard 316mm X 30mm rotors?

I've asked Legacy.com & wilwood & the ebay store..but no reply yet......helps.!!!

[Egg]

By the sounds of the ad they will fit WRX Sti rotors, so I think that would cancel you out. But If you were going to buy those calipers, then you might as well get some nice slotted discs anyway.

The other thing you could do is shoot Willwood an email directly and also find out how hard it is to get replacement pads.

[jacks-GTB]

cheers mate.. yeah it just sucks because i just got slotted rotors for the fronts installed...awh well...
they have a set with rotors, but i'm not sure of the quality of the rotors - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/150603284591 ... 1423.l2649

Yeah i spoke to my mechanic and said we will try and match them up(pads)...but i will still email them, thanks very much..

[kiks]

Rising sun subaru
Kris Roberts
Tell him you want some sti brembos front and rear. You want gold GDA/GDB sti calipers.

Greg @ GSL Rallysport
http://www.gslrallysport.com/shop/

Tell him you want a set of DBA 4000SL/SR fronts and hub conversion street series rears, with QFM A1RM pads front and rear.
Also tell him you want some GR sti or BL/BP legacy braided brake lines, or get PHAT to sort you out with some APP lines.

Nick @ Entra Imports
http://www.entra.com.au/
Can sort you out with dogbone adaptors to bolt on the rears.

Phatman on this forum
forumparts@gmail.com
For a cusco master cyl brace.

If you need any more brakes than that you are kidding yourself, or doing some seriously hard (5+ flat out laps) work.
Total cost:
$3k or so.

Better than anything willwood can supply for even remotely close to the price, and maintains an excellent OEM brake balance.

[goatsie]

When it's spelled out like that. You can't go wrong.
That's exactly the info I've been looking for myself!

[Gambit]

Yeah gotta give Kris a good plug, he helped source my brakes and was extremely helpful. Thank you rising sun

[kiks]

If you commit to all that Im happy to throw some pointers:
Castrol super dot 4 is ok. Total HBF 4 is better and cheaper (castrol went shit after a few hard sessions). Im not in any need to throw AP/Motul etc sorta shit in.
But any decent fluid will do fine

The KNS dogbones from Entra do not fully fit properly. You need to use a die grinder or a round file to relieve the rear trailing arm by about 1mm of material in a spot, and use socket head cap screws (Grade 12.9 or 8.9 high tensile bolts will be $2 at any bolts place, M8x1.25 from memory). Very simple to do and takes all of 15 seconds with a die grinder or 5mins with a round file. The tradeoff is the KNS adaptors are huge and well made.

Whatever brembos you get, if theyre second hand, pull the pads out, throw them in the bin, soak the shims, pins, k clips in a bucket of metho or something, and then wash thoroughly with a can of brake cleaner. Brake cleaner galore all over the calipers to get all the muck and shit off them from the stock pads and iron dust from the old rotors they were on.

The rear brake dust shields need to be cut down. When you take the old brakes off the back this is an easy job to do with a 1/4 (6mm) drill bit. Just drill out the old spot welds and the covers fall off. You'll know what I mean when you see it.

One thing to be said, if you want a 'quiet' oem pad, A1RM can squeak when not up to temp and with mild pedal pressure. Will dislodge your eyeballs 20 times in a row if you ask them to though and bite ridiculously hard from cold. Much like a DS2500. The GSL bloke I mentioned also stocks a full range of elig, ferodo and QFM shit so he can advise you based on what you tell him.

When changing the brakelines, do yurself a favour and go to a tool place and buy a good quality 10mm open ended spanner. No kingchrome or trade tools shit. You want a good quality 10mm open ender or it will not be the right tolerence, and not be strong enough, and WILL strip the factory nut. Believe me on this SWG, Stahwillie, snap-on etc. When you strip a nut, dont say I didnt warn you.

Follow any bedding in procedures to the T. If your mechanic says 'just pot around', then dont. You will only glaze a good set of pads up. Mine were on fire during bed in...oops

[Kekotic]

Kiks you own that V12 Gen3? What are the power figures on that.

You have so much awesome info to give, keep it up!

[kiks]

0kw at 0rpm so far. It needs work, and 2 turbos.

[Kekotic]

0kw at 0rpm so far. It needs work, and 2 turbos.

[jacks-GTB]

If you commit to all that Im happy to throw some pointers:
Castrol super dot 4 is ok. Total HBF 4 is better and cheaper (castrol went shit after a few hard sessions). Im not in any need to throw AP/Motul etc sorta shit in.
But any decent fluid will do fine

The KNS dogbones from Entra do not fully fit properly. You need to use a die grinder or a round file to relieve the rear trailing arm by about 1mm of material in a spot, and use socket head cap screws (Grade 12.9 or 8.9 high tensile bolts will be $2 at any bolts place, M8x1.25 from memory). Very simple to do and takes all of 15 seconds with a die grinder or 5mins with a round file. The tradeoff is the KNS adaptors are huge and well made.

Whatever brembos you get, if theyre second hand, pull the pads out, throw them in the bin, soak the shims, pins, k clips in a bucket of metho or something, and then wash thoroughly with a can of brake cleaner. Brake cleaner galore all over the calipers to get all the muck and shit off them from the stock pads and iron dust from the old rotors they were on.

The rear brake dust shields need to be cut down. When you take the old brakes off the back this is an easy job to do with a 1/4 (6mm) drill bit. Just drill out the old spot welds and the covers fall off. You'll know what I mean when you see it.

One thing to be said, if you want a 'quiet' oem pad, A1RM can squeak when not up to temp and with mild pedal pressure. Will dislodge your eyeballs 20 times in a row if you ask them to though and bite ridiculously hard from cold. Much like a DS2500. The GSL bloke I mentioned also stocks a full range of elig, ferodo and QFM shit so he can advise you based on what you tell him.

When changing the brakelines, do yurself a favour and go to a tool place and buy a good quality 10mm open ended spanner. No kingchrome or trade tools shit. You want a good quality 10mm open ender or it will not be the right tolerence, and not be strong enough, and WILL strip the factory nut. Believe me on this SWG, Stahwillie, snap-on etc. When you strip a nut, dont say I didnt warn you.

Follow any bedding in procedures to the T. If your mechanic says 'just pot around', then dont. You will only glaze a good set of pads up. Mine were on fire during bed in...oops

Wow....Thanks so much for that...I'll have a good think about it...

I was thinking at first when i wanted get some better brakes, i was going get braided lines and cusco brake stopper first to see how that goes....but i'm not sure now.. i want to get bigger brakes...!!

cheers thanks kiks

[BLKGTB]

Kiks you know your stuff ...thank you.

[Kekotic]

Kiks you know your stuff ...thank you.

Amen, let's hope he sticks around! Need more of these Coyote/PHAT/TeK/Kiks/Robbks/youngy69 people around. Sorry if I missed any of you guys

[hamish_023]

Kiks you know your stuff ...thank you.

Amen, let's hope he sticks around! Need more of these Coyote/PHAT/TeK/Kiks/Robbks/youngy69/Hamish people around. Sorry if I missed any of you guys

Fixed. Also forgot Mark

[Kekotic]

Kiks you know your stuff ...thank you.

Amen, let's hope he sticks around! Need more of these Coyote/PHAT/TeK/Kiks/Robbks/youngy69/Hamish people around. Sorry if I missed any of you guys

Fixed. Also forgot Mark

Yeah forgot Cruisn my bad! Although it looks like you accidentally added someone in the list who knows nothing other than how to wax on and Wack off