MY04 Liberty GT - FrankenStien - EOI welcome / FS

[dr20t]

No dramas at all Teflon.

Steve thanks for updating us mate much appreciated. In terms of choice, to be honest for me it's not just the size of the cooler but the scoop ducting that appeals to me with process west.

Whilst the hyperflow would be good, if the pw one can be made to fit I'd much prefer that.

Keep us in the loop if u can mate or if not I'm happy to go guinea pig for the trial fitting.

Do you mind also verifying if the fitting requirement would change if one was to go for an aftermarket turbo upgrade as I plan? For eg a bbk or gtpumps twin scroll?

Cheers

[legacydan]

what turbo is in yours now?

[Rome_BRZ]

If he quoted you $800 to be the guinea pig it would be including the fitment he wouldn't charge extra for that I don't think.

[dr20t]

what turbo is in yours now?

Vf38 at the moment but looking to upgrade to a bbk or gtpumps twin scroll. Headers have already been ordered for the upgraded turbs.

[LGT-05T]

Phan, the price for $800 (as i took it) was fitment aswell.

My personal opinion, i would like to have a larger process west cooler only because as Mick stated, its larger and comes with the splitter under the bonnet scoop and they look great. However the question is, is it really needed to go that much bigger if you are not changing turbo etc. When you look at it.
PW - $1100 for slightly larger cooler and splitter
HYPERFLOW - say $800 for cooler only.
So really as i see it, say the PW cooler is $900. Your paying say $200 for the splitter.
Now whats the best outcome? Would there be a difference in performance once on the dyno or not? If its only a slight difference maybe for the money a Hyperflow one is better. As you said Phan, you can get a custom centre pipe which would, actually increase performance together on the dyno. At this moment im just in two minds and don't know.

Mick, if you would like to be the G P, i wouldnt mind, at this stage i cannot do anything to be honest because my final approval for a loan came threw today as i have bought a block of land to build, so it might not be 'till february until i decide to get one unless Phan wants it?
Also what are your thoughts?
Steve

[Rome_BRZ]

Phan, the price for $800 (as i took it) was fitment aswell.

My personal opinion, i would like to have a larger process west cooler only because as Mick stated, its larger and comes with the splitter under the bonnet scoop and they look great. However the question is, is it really needed to go that much bigger if you are not changing turbo etc. When you look at it.
PW - $1100 for slightly larger cooler and splitter
HYPERFLOW - say $800 for cooler only.
So really as i see it, say the PW cooler is $900. Your paying say $200 for the splitter.
Now whats the best outcome? Would there be a difference in performance once on the dyno or not? If its only a slight difference maybe for the money a Hyperflow one is better. As you said Phan, you can get a custom centre pipe which would, actually increase performance together on the dyno. At this moment im just in two minds and don't know.

Mick, if you would like to be the G P, i wouldnt mind, at this stage i cannot do anything to be honest because my final approval for a loan came threw today as i have bought a block of land to build, so it might not be 'till february until i decide to get one unless Phan wants it?
Also what are your thoughts?
Steve

It looks better, that would be the main reason in my decision if I was going to get it. But I may be going front mount soon so ignore me

[dr20t]

Mate I'd be more than happy to be gp once turbo and headers are on.

In terms of my thoughts, I reckon if you're running a stock turbo and exhaust etc, it's not worth the extra few hundred although if you're looking to extract max cooling then the pw one is definitely the go.

the other thing I'd say is it doesn't matter what happens on the dyno, as you will never truly see results from top mount on a dyno.

Just enountered a bit of a problem as well. Started running rough on deceleration and timing seemed to be all over the place such that it sounded like a rotor! Took off from a standing start and was idling rough as guts then struggling to rev. Gonna give pulse a call tomorrow to discuss. I hope it's timing related and not mechanical. Checked for potential hg problem but hopefully that's not the case as I can't see any mixing yet in either radiator or oil.

This might stall things a little guys wish me luck.

[LGT-05T]

geez thats not good.
hope its not major.come to think of it, don't quote me on this but from what i can remember they're kind of the same symptoms as my brother inlaws old car, apparently it came down to shit fuel.
let us know how you go mate. good luck.

[teflon]

Hit the nail on the head Steve with my thinking... part of the reason I wanted the PW was because of the size and the splitter ... I can' really be the guinea pig because I'm Brisbane based and I assume they would want to do the first install themselves? Although if neither of you want to be the guinea pig right now I could ask Kev at PW if he would be happy for Russell at Subievolution to attempt the install with me as the guinea pig??? (But it could be an $800 risk if it doesn't work out!) If that's not a goer though, I would probably go the hyperflow + a centre pipe as I have no long term plans to change the turbo etc.

GL with the rough idle Mick... on our cars there are a few threads discussing that problem... could be a number of things such as O2 sensors but more recently someone posted this fix:

viewtopic.php?f=17&t=13374&start=30

[dr20t]

Thanks guys. From my experience mechanically I've listed what it could be below:

- vacuum leak in inlet tract (anywhere from afm to the head)
- exh leak (could be since tbe was done three weeks ago and potentially blown a weld on the dump pipe)
- also noticed they've used a sealer of some sort on the dp when looking today. Could be a lead based sealer which would kill the 02 sensor
- blown head gasket (I hope not although like I said early diagnosis seems not to be the case)
- idle up solenoid fault
- tps faulty or not receiving correct voltage (potential alternator problem)
- timing belt has skipped a tooth (unlikely as this would have resulted in more noticeable faults)
- dead injector on one cylinder or faulty at least
- fuel filter
- dirty injector
- afm faulty
- Timing issue (ie cas faulty)
- faulty coil

Specific to the gt:
- acvs solenoid faulty
- bov leak or fault


I'm gonna try some injector cleaner first then go from there. Have access to ecu scanner so that'll be next should injector cleaner not change anything.



It did this out of the blue and doesn't sound comfortable revving at all. Cam timing or fuel related is highly likely, followed by o2 sensor or exhaust leak, then afm.

[teflon]

After the injector cleaner, the afm is cheap and easy to clean so always worth a shot first up. GL.

[dr20t]

Ok guys problem seems to have been solved.

Tried injector cleaner didn't work

Cleaned afm with plastic safe contact cleaner no change

Unplugged o2 sensor and whilst not a massie change idle it did get a little worse which ruled out o2 sensor fault for the time being.

So I pulled the intercooler, top half of inlet manifold and associated piping and hoses apart.

Found a split in one of the vacuum hoses to the pcv and a slight wear on the bov vacuum hose to the manifold. So o changed these.

Put it all back together and it ran A little rough at first then picked up after warm up. I was still a little paranoid so pulled the acvs solenoids out (could only pull the passenger side one out completely as drivers side was hard up against turbo coolant lines. Couldn't see any sludge or carbon build up so put them back in. Started her up and took it for a spin and seemed fine (other than being affected by high intake temps).

Still gonna throw it on the scanner on Monday to verify as I believe it could still be the acvs and for now it's come back fr the dead.

Thanks for your assistance guys.

Mick

[t.renshaw34]

glad you got it sorted mate always a worry when things start going wrong.

on the intercooler issue, the hyperflow TMIC is good up to 250 kwatw, Im 75% of the way done on my power build up to 220-230 kwatw, and if your going more than 250kwatw it requires the block to opened up and rebuilt. so why not go front mount as im sure it would have more gains over the PW. feel free to correct me on the front mount over PC as im only using my own research and findings while doing my power build.

[dr20t]

Yeah seems to be the case that tmic will only be good for circa 250atw.

To be honest its not the dyno figure that will matter with the top mount, but in the real world where heat soak can and will generally occur more with a tmic.

Tossing up whether to go for a front mount stealth look now to be honest lol.

Mods list planned has grown:

- bbk twin scroll billet 20g
- equal length kando twin scroll headers
- 850cc injectors
- tmic or fmic
- retune ( considering e85)

Also bought an auto transmission cooler (genuine Subaru) off the forums and will install this weekend.

Waiting on my billies and teins to arrive as well.

So given the change in plans I might even have a crack at some reveling cams.

Just need to decide on tmic or fmic now.

[dr20t]

Oh and it's not entirely sorted to be honest. Have posted a question in ecu tuning section.