2008 GT specB with the most KM

[ginge_mcninge]

Hi, new to the forum first time poster, long time lurker. I've had a few libs most notably a clapped 2004 GT sedan and now a 2008 GT specB. Thought i'd introduce it and its story.

January 2023 hit up a bloke on messenger to buy parts for my preface sedan and trekked up to Newcastle to pick them up, got to his saw this wagon half in his driveway and made a joke about buying it, looked rough didn't run engine was in pieces. Fast Forward a few months and I'm messaging him for more parts and he suggests I just buy the wagon and flog my clapped pre-face off for cheap, got a few photos of it and a PPSR and thought it wasn't a bad deal for 3K. Trailered it down to my place, unregistered needing work before it would pass so It was sitting till about June.

Rego fail items were smashed windscreen, "Exhaust non compliant", Tint, torn CV boots, and oil leak. In my area there is only one place thats authorised for blue slips and I thought they wouldn't be assholes but guess I was wrong. 2 new CV's, tint removal, windscreen replacement, $1.5K, and a sump washer later I took it back to still get knocked back on the exhaust, fair enough this thing was loud. Got told I needed a letter from the exhaust manufacturer that it met ADR and I needed to do an emissions test because "I can't tell if there is a cat in the exhaust." One would assume that being a mechanic and having access to a hoist you could pull off the pipe, see the cat and pass it but he wasn't having a bar of it, even told him the model number for the exhaust was on the inside of the up pipe flange but he still refused to take it off and look at the cat in the up pipe. So I took it somewhere else and drove it unrego'd an hour away from home and took it somewhere else, gave him the failed report, he scratched his head and then put the car on the hoist, pulled off the mid-pipe said yeah theres a cat in that and passed it all in the span of 30 minutes.

Got my pass, got my plates, took it out to show it off to my mates and get their thoughts and immediately ran into problems, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0244, and P01410, Brilliant. Turns out I had blown off both ends on the vac line that goes from under the intake manifold and the blow off valve? I dunno what it is exactly. Repco Vac line came to the rescue and that cleared all but the P0244, and P1410. Turns out P01410 is quite common, if there was a club lib bingo card for shit that doesn't like working or most common code it would be up there. Asked around on facebook for ideas on what to do and turns out theres a way of "Tuning it out", great another 400 for a tune focusing on making the gearbox shift nicer and to get rid of the engine light. Lucky for me the P1410 is quite intermittent and can be avoided entirely by not launching the car at every green light and not driving like an absolute degenerate. Soon™ I plan on replacing the VF42 (not 100 percent sure what turbo it is, but its stock) with a GTX2948 that will "just bolt on trust me bro."

But that wasn't It, somehow both mechanics and myself had managed to miss the rear passenger side brake calliper that was Seized on. Couldn't source a replacement that fit, somehow ended up with legacy rear callipers and bit the bullet and got a set of TbSTI Brembos for 3.5K, Painted and assembled for 500, and fitted with new lines, new master cylinder, new pads and new rotors for 1.5K. Picked up a set of TbSTI wheels for a further 1.5K and finally had a nice running, driving, registered, and most importantly insured Lib that I am happy to call mine.

Tried out a few things on it, picked up one of those ungodly navi replacements that gives you carplay and android auto, can not stress how much of a piece of shit they are and an absolute waste of money. I'm actively looking for an unmolested cubby or ready to go nexus setup to replace it and a dual zone climate control double din facia.

Next job is to do a 6mt conversion, hopefully picking up a gearbox, subframe, drive shafts, pedals, and everything needed to do it. Then its time for a factory manual ECU, BCU, Ignition, and cluster so hopefully I can have a nice manual Cluster to match my soon to be Manual lib.

Oh yeah and the car has 395,659KM currently on it, it's driven quite a lot, I've put 7 or 8 thousand Ks on it. Plan is for a full service at 400,000 replacing everything because I plan to have it out to do the gearbox conversion, any hints/tricks/ advice for the conversion is appreciated.

before someone replies with it, I'm $11,400 deep not including the cost of rego, $16,900 including the 6mt box, cluster, and modules, and $18,400 including labour for just the manual conversion no engine work.

[Yowie]

Welcome.

Don't overlook fresh engine, gearbox & pitch-stop mounts if you're doing a gearbox swap (or even if you aren't).

With my recent engine rebuild (2008 Forester) all those mounts were shot and it caused complications on first fire-up (undiagnosed banging sound turned out to be "chassis meet drivetrain" thanks to shot engine mounts).

A VF46 is the stock turbo for that model. It's a nice responsive unit, but if you need more a VF52 is the next step up (and genuinely "factory bolt-on").

I hate to be a gloom merchant, but if the engine is nearly 400,000kms old and the car already owes you a heap just to get it daily drivable, adding a massive turbo and tuning for big high-revs power might cause the early death of your current engine.

Conservatively, I probably spent $15,000 on an engine rebuild using a factory stock 2.5 litre bottom end, head reconditioning, selected better parts, labour, etc. etc. Smarter operators could have gone about it cheaper, but the point is these engines are not a cast iron LS, Barra, 2JZ or 4g63. They are alloy, open-deck passenger-car blocks and the unsupported cylinders move, head gaskets go, ring lands break, etc. and you accelerate that end-of-life by squeezing big power out of a high-km engine.

Also, a responsive car with a mid-sized turbo is fun on the road, while reviews are mixed on big-turbo 2.5 litres with a high boost threshold.

Best wishes with whatever you choose to do.

[bigBADbenny]

This forum has a few awesome 6mt conversion threads

Here’s a site specific google search:
https://www.google.com.au/search?q=site ... s-wiz-serp

First hit is the latest, but there’s older threads as well.

If your engine was in pieces before you bought it, what happened to it prior to rego?

[ginge_mcninge]

A VF46 is the stock turbo for that model. It's a nice responsive unit, but if you need more a VF52 is the next step up (and genuinely "factory bolt-on").

Thats what i've been told for a few people i've spoken to, just figured it would be easier to get a VF52 on and setup then chasing a good condition non chineaseium VF46 wastegate

I hate to be a gloom merchant, but if the engine is nearly 400,000kms old and the car already owes you a heap just to get it daily drivable, adding a massive turbo and tuning for big high-revs power might cause the early death of your current engine.

Conservatively, I probably spent $15,000 on an engine rebuild using a factory stock 2.5 litre bottom end, head reconditioning, selected better parts, labour, etc. etc. Smarter operators could have gone about it cheaper, but the point is these engines are not a cast iron LS, Barra, 2JZ or 4g63. They are alloy, open-deck passenger-car blocks and the unsupported cylinders move, head gaskets go, ring lands break, etc. and you accelerate that end-of-life by squeezing big power out of a high-km engine.

I'm well aware that the motor is probably going to go sooner rather than later, I just like doing things once and right instead of twice and half-assed the first time. I'm just struggling to find a place that has good reviews to purchase either a built short-block or that can rebuild my motor and close deck it. I don't mind spending the money as long as I'm not having to go back there every few months for an issue with the motor.

Thank you though for your reply, I'm just excited to drive this car, Dad owned a 2008 TbSTI wagon that was a 6mt and little me loved being driven in it and he loves to borrow it to run to the shops and back just rekons it should be manual to get more fun out of it.

[ginge_mcninge]

If your engine was in pieces before you bought it, what happened to it prior to rego?

From what I've been able to piece together the car went something like this:

Delivered to some bloke or non blokes parents in Newcastle, driven and serviced regularly with stamps in the logbook until the J service
Handed down to a P plater who lived in Newcastle that did work in Sydney (Navi has 60+ pins in Sydney and 10 in Newcastle) who either serviced it themselves or with some 3rd party mechanic.
Then they've driven it until the turbo inlet hose went and sold it on marketplace to a different bloke in Newcastle that sold me the car
From what I believe he bought it with the intention of stripping it and selling it but either didn't have the time or space to do it so he sold me the car for cheap

he bought it in may 2022 with 263'000km and the next recorded odometer reading on the RMS app is my first failed blueslip with 393'000km in may 2023 which is just a bit strange for a car that was sitting in a shed with a smashed windscreen and the motor in bits...

who knows, car runs great and puts a bloody big smile on my face so I cant be one to complain

[bigBADbenny]

That’s great! Btw it’s potentially easier to use the stock nsv screen with an android tv box and CarPlay adapter than go the nexus route, or use a short chassis mechless head unit in that location.

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=36525

Using the stock nav screen has sone disadvantages eg low res, no touch (unless you hack or add it), but it looks and works like stock.

[Stifull]

If you are in Brisbane ad need anything done by professionals especially building an engine, and who may have good 2nd hand parts on the shelf, ring Russell at Subievolution at Brendale. We have had Subarus for many years. At the moment we have 6 in our household. Russell, Steve and the other guys live and breath Subarus. That's all they do and they have a fabulous reputation for good old fashion honest repairs and rebuilds. I can't recommend them highly enough. My son's Sti is going in tomorrow to have coil over installed and I am taking my wife's Bugeye wRX wagon over sometime today to get the CEL read as it suddenly started to run on 3 cylinders yesterday. (it has had a few mods done and one causes a constant CEL so it has been disconnected and we just read the code if it ever plays up. They built the 2.5lt engine I have in my GC8 WRX 12 years ago and it's still runs the same as it did the day it was tuned. Makes 180kwtatw on 16lb and has done 180,000klm since the rebuild.. I have a good VF46 with no shaft or end play in perfect condition if you need one of those. I upgraded my 07 Lib GT by doing a VF52 and all the supporting mods, to get it also making 180 on 16lb and I have all the original parts, Turbo, IC, hoses, air filter etc packed away in boxes..except the exhaust.. I didn't have a box big enough.. lol...

[ginge_mcninge]

If you are in Brisbane ad need anything done by professionals especially building an engine, and who may have good 2nd hand parts on the shelf, ring Russell at Subievolution at Brendale. We have had Subarus for many years. At the moment we have 6 in our household. Russell, Steve and the other guys live and breath Subarus. That's all they do and they have a fabulous reputation for good old fashion honest repairs and rebuilds. I can't recommend them highly enough. My son's Sti is going in tomorrow to have coil over installed and I am taking my wife's Bugeye wRX wagon over sometime today to get the CEL read as it suddenly started to run on 3 cylinders yesterday. (it has had a few mods done and one causes a constant CEL so it has been disconnected and we just read the code if it ever plays up. They built the 2.5lt engine I have in my GC8 WRX 12 years ago and it's still runs the same as it did the day it was tuned. Makes 180kwtatw on 16lb and has done 180,000klm since the rebuild.. I have a good VF46 with no shaft or end play in perfect condition if you need one of those. I upgraded my 07 Lib GT by doing a VF52 and all the supporting mods, to get it also making 180 on 16lb and I have all the original parts, Turbo, IC, hoses, air filter etc packed away in boxes..except the exhaust.. I didn't have a box big enough.. lol...

dam! I'm not in Brisbane but if someones got a good reputation and is willing to take it on I'll happily travel for it. Got to go up there anyway got a VF SV6 ute and a LS just sitting in the garage, theres a bloke up there that fits and complies them with NSW engineering and paperwork. Don't really want to make tons of power though because I lack self control apparently and would like to keep driving.

[ginge_mcninge]

That’s great! Btw it’s potentially easier to use the stock nsv screen with an android tv box and CarPlay adapter than go the nexus route, or use a short chassis mechless head unit in that location.

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=36525

Using the stock nav screen has sone disadvantages eg low res, no touch (unless you hack or add it), but it looks and works like stock.

Really want it to look as stock as possible, don't mind too much about resolution just has to flash the screen if theres any problems and tell me oil temp/press

[Yowie]

"Really want it to look as stock as possible, don't mind too much about resolution just has to flash the screen if theres any problems and tell me oil temp/press"

I'm not aware that the car monitors oil temperature or oil pressure* in stock form. To watch that stuff you might need to add sensors (whether connected to simple gauges or a more sophisticated screen type thing).

(*other than the "dumb" replace engine light on the dash that runs off a simple pressure switch).

Apologies if I've missed something earlier in the thread jumping in here with this.

[ginge_mcninge]

I'm not aware that the car monitors oil temperature or oil pressure* in stock form. To watch that stuff you might need to add sensors (whether connected to simple gauges or a more sophisticated screen type thing).

From what torque tells me and btssm it looks like theres only coolant temp and not sensors for oil temp/pressure, are there any choice sensors that people have used? haven't looked into it much but from what i've heard oil starvation is the leading cause of subaru motor death and something I would very much like to watch closely.

[Yowie]

The basic option would be gauge packages (oil temp and oil pressure) with the appropriate sensors.

See my oil pressure gauge install thread here http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=36812

Oil temp kits would come with a thermistor type sensor. A K-type thermocouple kit could also work (but seems unnecessarily complex for the task).

I'm guessing that "plug into a smart dash" options have similar sensors but would need to be confirmed to work with the brand/type of smart dash.


The usual places to tap into this oil information are:

(a) top/front of engine under alternator (stock oil pressure switch location);

(b) top/rear of engine near turbo (blanking plug to oil gallery in stock form. A pr!ck to get at, but doable with engine in car) - the location of my oil temp thermistor sensor;

(c) aftermarket spacer assemblies that go between the oil filter and the block;

(d) remote oil filter mount assemblies with the necessary threaded holes.

[ginge_mcninge]

The basic option would be gauge packages (oil temp and oil pressure) with the appropriate sensors.
...
(c) aftermarket spacer assemblies that go between the oil filter and the block;
...

If I ran an oil cooler from this location would that be a good way to measure oil temp + pressure? Facebook marketplace has one for sale locally that might be the move then

[Yowie]

If I ran an oil cooler from this location [(c) aftermarket spacer assemblies that go between the oil filter and the block;] would that be a good way to measure oil temp + pressure? Facebook marketplace has one for sale locally that might be the move then

I haven't done it, but my understanding is that this is correct. Make sure it has enough correctly-threaded outlets for not only oil-to-cooler and oil-from-cooler but both of your sensors.

If it only has one sensor threaded hole, you might have to choose what sensor goes there and what goes on top of the engine.

If the facebook item is inexpensive, you can get it for mock-up & head-scratching purposes, even if you don't end up using it.


Note also:

- textbook wisdom is that cast oil filter spacers (with smooth internal corners) are better than milled/drilled (with sharp internal corners) for oil flow reasons. The oil galleries inside the engine also have sharp edges, so that might be a "nice to have" thing. Consider if any internal dremel work is practical to smooth sharp edges.

- if it is not possible to thoroughly clean inside the second-hand spacer assembly do not use it. I suspect it would be ok (simple large passages?). In contrast, oil coolers are notoriously no good second hand because they collect bits during an engine failure and are impossible to clean.

- for a street car, a thermostat to the oil cooler is a good idea. I live in Brisbane and it takes about 10 mins of driving for my engine oil to get up to operating temp (80-95 degrees). I would not want that to take longer due to a non-thermostat oil cooler. FYI at track days my oil has only gotten to about 120 degrees (which is fine). Consider if you need an oil cooler at all. Monitoring temperatures is probably the first step on for this decision - hence your current conundrum.

[ginge_mcninge]

...I haven't done it, but my understanding is that this is correct. Make sure it has enough correctly-threaded outlets for not only oil-to-cooler and oil-from-cooler but both of your sensors...

...- for a street car, a thermostat to the oil cooler is a good idea. I live in Brisbane and it takes about 10 mins of driving for my engine oil to get up to operating temp (80-95 degrees). I would not want that to take longer due to a non-thermostat oil cooler. FYI at track days my oil has only gotten to about 120 degrees (which is fine). Consider if you need an oil cooler at all. Monitoring temperatures is probably the first step on for this decision - hence your current conundrum...

Ah, Didn't really think about it not getting hot enough to justify. I haven't got any plans for track days just do a lot of spirited driving. Might have to rethink my ideas then.