club.liberty.asn.au

Hey.

I should probably put up a Hi post.

My names Pete and I am located in the SouthWest of WA.

As few have seen, I recently sold my Jeep and have moved back to streetcars. I've had a few S13s, RVRs, Subarus and a heap of junk on the way, my last being a 09 X limited Forry, we purchased new. We traded it in recently for a 2020 Suzuki Vitara Turbo.

I bought a '08 BL9 Liberty, which as seen have started turbo'ing.

Been working on it when i get an hour here or there, and just slowly ticking along. It's only a toy, not a daily, so I am not fussed how long it takes.



Anyways, Hi !.

Pete.

Fantastic, and I’ll bet you never asked if na/t was possible, you just got on with it

bigBADbenny wrote:Fantastic, and I’ll bet you never asked if na/t was possible, you just got on with it

Yes. Sometimes it's easier to delve head first. For some stupid reason.

Got me wondering if it's a thing with the turbo engines to shave the heads for a bit more static compression for driveability...

Got a feeling I'd prefer your engine to mine...

Got me wondering if it's a thing with the turbo engines to shave the heads for a bit more static compression for driveability...

If one were prepared to run less boost and keep a closer eye on knock perhaps.

Seems like it would be the worst of both worlds - the expense of NA-style engine work while reducing the benefit of the turbo.

The exception might be some 80s era factory turbo engine with way-too-little static compression because that's the best that could be done at the time to control knock. Even for that, different rods/pistons would achieve more than head shaving.

Yowie wrote:

Got me wondering if it's a thing with the turbo engines to shave the heads for a bit more static compression for driveability...

If one were prepared to run less boost and keep a closer eye on knock perhaps.

Seems like it would be the worst of both worlds - the expense of NA-style engine work while reducing the benefit of the turbo.

The exception might be some 80s era factory turbo engine with way-too-little static compression because that's the best that could be done at the time to control knock. Even for that, different rods/pistons would achieve more than head shaving.

Or a thinner gasket might be able to compensate instead of destroying a set of heads all in the name of research ?

I have an 05 EJ20 from a WRX that has a spun bearing, Once i've got this turn key, and a few more house "mods" done I will break the 20 down and see how bad the internals are. If it's rebuildable, I will build it. If it isn't, my local speed mechanic may have another 253 to be pulled from a Forester soon that has an upper engine problem, I'll grab that, build the bottom, and have a look at the twin cam swap that involved the different pistons and gaskets. There's a heap of info on the swaps all around the net, and few companies make the kit as a package now too.

If not, it's time to go back to the good old reliable CA18DETs

Pete.

rexhunta wrote: my local speed mechanic may have another 253 to be pulled

That gave me a mental double-take, lol

Kimmo wrote:

rexhunta wrote: my local speed mechanic may have another 253 to be pulled

That gave me a mental double-take, lol

He's doing some sh forry engine swap. Don't know the full statistics but i'm guessing L98 or something.