club.liberty.asn.au

Hey internets, my names mike and loving the vast depth of knowledge held in this beautiful forum!!

The story: SO ever since back in the days of playing Need for speed underground after school as a lil one, id always dreamed of having a black Evo with green neons (kids bright and creative dreams) much similar to the Civics in the opening scenes of the first Fast and furious flick. Come the turning of age, i dived in deep to my first P plate affordable car, an 06' ch lancers in black, fully blacked tint, lights, nice interior 2.4l engine of fun feat. a stick. Loved it to bits, nurtured it, abused it, thrashed it, repaired it.....sold it. She did me good for a long and loving 5 years. Then i left her and fled the country, going on exchange with uni to Malaysia for 6 months. So she got the boot.

AND THEN....i came to my senses and developed a fascination with the other side. In the hunt for a wagon, (room to sleep, throw the surfboards in and generaly be happy) i ventured down the soooby avenue and fell in love once again. The past few months ive been trawling classifieds looking for a GT liberty (manual, apparently hard to come by) in Victoria. The beauty of them all, the flawless wrx's a contender too...i stumbled upon a great condition 2004 (110k's) Lib wagon 3.0r spec B in manual, gave her a drive in i was in. There has always been something captivating about the rumble of the boxer engines and now ive opened my eyes and found the light. I still have a love for my old "black dragon" but this is a new era and i look forward to what it holds.

SO, im a Melbourne guy, finishing off Mechanical Engineering and Finance this year, and am the proud new owner of this:


I look forward to the mods and love this will follow!

Hey Mike great to see another Gen 4 Lib wagon lover!

Your pic isn't showing up for me though!

Edit: As soon as I posted this and reloaded, there it was. Nice ride!

haha yeh thought id try goog drive but swapped back to photobucket. Yeah so stoked to have a wagzz. ill get a few more photos up soon, the interiors pretty pristine for 11 years old.

Still crying inside i couldn't find any GT's but when you need a car you need a car.
Not sure if its frowned upon but for reference and memory, here is the one time i will post a mitsubishi pic on this forum

Nice ride man! I still have my Mitsubishi 380 - the Liberty sure is a nice step up though hey

Had a great chance to run in the car and get used to how it feels and i love it (except for the fuel consumption, but worth it).
Had a small camping trip near Alexandra, Vic. Also took the chance to do some fun roads near lake mountain, between Marysville and Warburton and boy was it Bliss!

Heres some shots, ive also tinted the tail lights which still emits considerable amount of light (compared to my previous car) and also blacked out the grill(probably will mesh it somewhere down the track).
Window tint is on its way in the post and am keeping my eye out for aero roof bars and a tow bar.

Been having a binge and getting dirty over the past few days with the car.
Have:
- Bought roofracks (got 20% off rhino racks at autobarn sale)
- Polished both mufflers and left one off while i decide if i want to straight pipe the rear end. (really like the tone without the muffler, and not too droney)
- Got the windows tinted by a guy down near chelsea for $250 at 20%. Did a top notch job and was great guy to chat to, can give anyone his number if interested.
- Started making a custom fiberglass subbox, need to do another layer on the back then start the front. see pics.
- Installed a towbar which i got for $50 off a car at my local car yard pick a part. Technically its off a outback which i didnt realise meant it would be a bit shorter at the back, so its a bit tricky to get the locking pin in for the tongue, but it works, and is more flush to the rear bump as you can see in the pics.
- Plastidipped the grill
- Tinted taillights

Shes starting to look fresh!

Nice.
Looks much like mine when I got it.
Brilliant Silver Metallic 39D paint.
around 110 thousand Kays
I also fitted a tow bar soon after.

When you need a short shifter - talk to me.
When you need to refresh the gear change - talk to me
When you need the centre differential done - talk to me

Get an E85 flex fuel tune - talk to Matt (a.k.a. KiDo_Tuning). One of the best improvements you will get to the stock car.

Consider an RSB, this really improves the handling.

Otherwise, just enjoy!

BillyCorgi wrote:I also fitted a tow bar soon after.

its really an essential on any practical car hey!!

BillyCorgi wrote:When you need a short shifter - talk to me.
When you need to refresh the gear change - talk to me
When you need the centre differential done - talk to me

Mint, might look into the gear bushings a bit down the line as i can feel it a little worn but not too bad atm. What is it you do to the diff and why, may be a stupid question here? I also notice your making your own brake cylinder brackets, whats the benefit of this?

BillyCorgi wrote:Get an E85 flex fuel tune - talk to Matt (a.k.a. KiDo_Tuning). One of the best improvements you will get to the stock car.

Actually been very interested in the kido tune! pretty keen to talk to a few people that have had it done in person and discuss how theyve found it. In all my readings, ive never really seen any discussion of price. What sort of price range are we talking?

pretty stoked to have this liberty. look forward to some meets/cruises around melbourne and surrounds for those down my way

Mike92 wrote:What is it you do to the diff and why, may be a stupid question here? I also notice your making your own brake cylinder brackets, whats the benefit of this?

The Viscous Coupling Centre Differentials are prone to "failing" around the 150 Thousand km mark. (not all, just prone)
The failure mechanism is the viscous silicone fluid "goes-off" and becomes too viscous.
The centre differential binds, which causes the all-wheel-drive transmission to "wind-up".
(Explained here http://www.4x4abc.com/4WD101/def_turnpart.html)
I have commenced refurbishing the viscous coupling centre differentials. Can do both 6MT and 5MT units.

Brake cylinder stopper puts a mechanical bracket against the end of the brake master cylinder so the firewall and brake booster canister cannot flex when the brakes are applied vigorously.
All the pedal effort is put into the fluid, not flexing metal components. Search Google Images on "Brake Cylinder Stopper" for more pictorial information.

Had a long couple of sessions installing my custom fiberglass sub box and wiring in a dedicated sub amp the was spliced into the stock headunits pre amplified sub signal (hardest part). As what always ends up happeneing i never take enough photos but i will show the few i did take.



My previous post has a pic of the sub box half complete. The process was similar to many other tutorials already up.
- Use 3m blue painters tape (work way better then standard cream masking tape) and tape a few layers over the entire area to be glassed. If youve never used fiber glass before, read a tutorial dedicated to that, as its a tricky process if you havnt done it before (even i have done LOTS of fiberglassing and this still had room for improvement.)
-Lay down a few layers of matt glass into this taped off area...extra carefull not to spill resin on your interior.
-let it dry/add more layers untill your happy. the thicker it is the cleaner your subs sound will turn out. too thin and the high pressure changed could crack it. I just reinforced the corners and seam between front half and back half.
- Cut out an mdf ring to screw the sub into and use mdf off cuts to secure that where you want it as seen in my previous pics.
-Then i used a big sheet of similar stuff to the microfiber cloths, got it for $5 at spot light. It soaked up LOTS of resin so dried very stiff. Others have used fleece or flanny.
- reinforce front to back edge seams. (Sorry for not many photos but heaps of other tutes around).
- cover in audio carpet.
- install sub and terminals.

POWER WIRES:
For the car wiring, i ran the main amp power cable fused from the battery through the big rubber grommet just right of the rear side of the enginer. stabbed a hole in it, pulled the grommet out, ran the wire through. To find the wire on the other side, i found it easiest to pull the glove box out, then to the right of the pollen filters housing you can justttt see further back. Having pushed the cable through from the engine a fair bit i could just get my hand in there to run it through to behind the stereo --> down under the center console, and out the side to under the drivers side seat where my sub amp is. The ground wire i ran from the amp to a bolt under the center aswell and the amps remote on wire i spliced into the center consoles yellow positive cigarette lighter 12v line.
These describe this part pretty well:
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=31517
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=8395




SIGNAL WIRING:
This was the tricky bit. As other posts have suggested, you can either use a speaker level to line level converter from one of the current speakers or you can get an amp with speaker level inputs. I didnt want to do either of these as i was using my amp from my last car and didnt want to add an extra sources of interference in the signal line. SO i set out to find a useable signal wire running into the stock mcintosh amp. Thnks to "ill find his post later" for figuring out the pin outs on the big black wire that goes from the stock HU to amp that has hall the signal wire. This part was hard but at the amp ends plug, i removed the plastic cover, cut back the insulation a bit, and spliced wires into two of the 3 top pins wires. The ones you want are in the top row of three and are blue and green. These are the preamplified subwoofer singals +/-.
In my picture, the 3 pins im talking about are on the right. You can see my two wires coming out of this plug now, i just put a female rca connectore on it so its easy to disconnect:


SPEAKER WIRES:
To run the speaker wire from my amp to the rear sub (which sits infront of the stock one, which i unplugged), i removed the rear seats, the right sholuder part of the seat that the seat belt comes through, the plastic edging along the bottom of the back right door and finally wedged open the plastic trim above the stock sub and just ran speaker cable from the sub to under the drivers seat.

SUB CONTROLER:
Havnt got a photo but ive also got a small sub gain dial sitting in the drop down fuse cover next to the drivers right knee. THis comes in handy and came with my amp.

I still need to tidy up the wires a bit but this is the amp when i slide the seat forward and pull it out. with the seat in driving position, you cant see any of the wires. (the blue one carries the signal between amps, this is too long so is temporarilly there but when i get a short one i will run it under the carpet).