Member Profile- 2007 3.0r-b sedan 65Z 6MT

Show off what mods you've done to your car.

Re: Member Profile- 2007 3.0r-b sedan 65Z 6MT

Postby JezzaH6 » Sat Nov 13, 2021 8:21 am

Winton Shenanigans

Take my word for it that a lot has changed on this thing, both as a part of fixing things that have broken, as well as upgrades. I have been incredibly lucky in that the industry I am working in while studying has stayed open (in fact got even more busy) throughout COVID, so time has been an incredibly valuable resource all of a sudden, and unfortunately that means I haven’t been able to update this as much as I would have like to (read: at all).

I feel it’s worth the time getting this out in writing though; both for the people that are stupid enough to take a Lib on track, as well as so I don’t forget what I have learnt! Plus I have always wanted to be able to do a Turbo Lag-style track day write up (although probably more ramble-y :lol: ).

Image

Between the last track day and this one a lot has changed on the car. In no particular order I am now running a TY856UB1KA from a 2009 JDM WRX STi, with a helical limited slip front different and DCCD, as well as a custom-made 42mm triple core radiator, a 10 row plate-and-fin style air-oil cooler and 2.25 turn (13.1) lock-to-lock steering rack (34110FE550 internals). I modified my adjustable upper rear camber arms to try and get a little more rear camber, and a brake master cylinder upgrade, Motul RBF660, Winmax W7’s, Nangkang AR1’s and Kein engine mounts joined the party as well.

The day started off pretty much perfect. No rain for the last few days, and another track day the previous day helps get rid of any moisture that seeped through the track. The first session started at an EZ30-friendly 20c, with minimal breeze. After having not been able to push the car hard for the last 6 months or so thanks to lockdowns, I immediately realised how out of practice I was, and this was clear with other drivers too, with traffic and general track etiquette being pretty poor.

Image

This didn’t stop the car from feeling absolutely amazing on the first few laps as I got re-acquainted with it! Temps stayed steady around 90c on coolant, and oil barely touched 115c. The steering felt nice and solid, and fresh brake fluid and the 1 1/16” BMC meant the brakes were rock solid. The AR1’s were incredibly communicative through the quick rack, and I immediately remembered why I made these sacrifices to daily-driveability.

However, the first hot lap I was getting a bad sense of deja-vu, with the brake pedal dropping almost completely to the floor. Getting back to the carport the problem was obvious- my heavily used W7’s were no more, and the thin remaining pad material must have transferred too much heat into the fluid, cooking it.

A change back to my street pads- I am currently trying Forza FP3’s- as well as a quick brake fluid flush and the pedal was back up to it’s normal firm feel.

I managed to do a 1:45.275, which considering I haven’t been able to drive the car properly in a long time I am pretty happy with. Watching it back there is still a lot I can do to improve, but its a good second faster than my previous PB and I am happy with that. Plus the car drove home!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LYZGplYGryw&t=6s

Now for my learnings and observations.

The short ratio saw me use much more fuel than I did previously on the drive there and back- settling in a full 1.2l/100km higher than on the stock long ratio 6mt! NVH at 110kmh on the Kein mounts is definitely worse too now that its sitting above 3k rpm at this speed. However, it does mean the 4-5 shift is actually worth it now on the main straight, and I picked up almost 10km/h through this section! Admittedly some of this is the higher cornering speed, but before the swap I would have to shift at the 80m marker before turn 1, or bang it off the limiter for a second or so, both of which ended up taking the same amount of time. I now hit redline at about the 100m marker, and the extra distance means I get meaningful acceleration in 5th!

DCCD on track is amazing- you get the impression this is exactly what it was designed for. There is still definitely some tuning I can still do- I think its locking too much under braking- but the mid-corner grip is something to experience. It is incredibly confidence inspiring and I am 100% certain there is a lot more time to be made up. On some corners it allows you to get back onto the throttle before the apex, and even though you are turning hard you can feel as it works out how best to apply the power to get you around the corner.

You do obviously have to be driving it in the appropriate manner though. It is interesting in that you can got through a corner too fast off-throttle and the car starts to slide, but you can get another good 10-15km/h (and probably more) just by ensuring you are on-throttle throughout the corner, without a hint of under or oversteer.

This feeling was let down quite significantly by my very worn out rear differential. Supposedly this is a viscous LSD, however mine has over 250k kms on it and is definitely acting like an open diff. I thought this was going to fail so much that I actually brought a spare H6 spec B rear differential assembly with me to the track; thankfully I didn’t have to change it out as I have big plans for it!

Cooling system upgrades are 100% required for any H6 on track. I have no idea how people get away without upgrading their cooling systems on turbo EZ30’s on track or even through the hills- unless they just aren’t pushing them that hard. I got Race Radiators in Dandenong to make me a custom, full alloy 42mm triple-core radiator, and I am running 15% glycol, 1 full bottle of Redline Water Wetter and the rest distilled water, for a total of about 8 litres, and in 28c ambient I was still sitting around 98c coolant and 126c oil by the end of the session.

Image

However, I was able to do continuous hot laps (at least until brake fade) without the coolant or oil temperature becoming a problem. Previous to fitting this radiator I could barely get one hot lap before coolant was at the 104c where the gauge moves, and well beyond my avoid-if-at-all-possible 100c coolant temp alarm. This is definitely a good thing, and obviously through the hills ect I have absolutely zero cooling issues now.

The oil cooler also helps tremendously. I never had huge issues with oil temp on track; hitting a max of 142c in 35c ambient on previous track days, but as I still have the factory oil cooler/warmer this places a huge load on the coolant system that I wanted to reduce. Dropping 16c of oil temp with only a 7c difference in ambient is awesome, especially for such a small oil cooler.

Image

Worn-out W7’s suck, but Forza’s FP3’s blew me away! For what is ultimately a street-biased performance pad they held up amazingly well, and I was easily able to get 3 hot laps out of them before the pedal started to loose effectiveness. I have been daily-driving on these for the last 10 months or so, and they definitely have better initial bite, and hold up on track better than Intima SR’s.

Where they blew me away was how well they have recovered after the track day. On the SR’s I would have to sand off well over 2mm of pad material, and then re-bed them in, and they still were never as good as they were before the track day. The FP3’s, after a couple of hard brakes to take off the surface glaze, feel like they are back up to 100% of what they were before the track day. Highly recommended, even over the conventional logic that is the Intima SR’s.

The quick rack is a nice-to-have on track, but as the stock H6 Spec B rack is 2.7 turns lock-to-lock, the 2.25 of my new one is not a huge upgrade. Fitting this rack was a massive PITA, and deserves its own thread tbh, but long story short a successful rack internals swap meant I no longer had a leaky, worn out, loose-inner-tie-rod steering rack!

Image

My hand-work is incredibly sloppy in the video- in fact it was for the whole day. I put this down to tiredness and a lack of practice, but it should now be possible to completely a whole lap without having to reposition my hands, which is definitely a good thing. The increased steering weight and feedback is also appreciated when the going gets twisty; it makes it very easy to feel what the front wheels are doing.

Finally, although they are quite harsh and introduce much NVH into the cabin, Kein’s EZ30 engine mounts feel fantastic on track! My old mounts were completely ruined, and you could feel almost a pendulum effect through corners as the engine and transmission movement was slightly lagging the chassis. The car feels much stiffer, helping everything from turn-in to surface feedback. These are quite harsh though even on the naturally balance EZ30, and not something I would consider if you are not in a position to make the most of them through some twisty corners at the very least. I was considering swapping them back to OEM, but they have been slowly softening over the past few weeks and are now at a point where I can put up with them day-to-day, especially as I now know how good they are when you get to some corners.

Image

Broken Parts

Amazingly I came away from this track day with only two minor failures, both related, if you don’t count me running the W7’s when they were clearly already dead. Both of these related to the new steering rack.

I already knew the quicker rack was going to introduce more resistance to the power steering system, and thus increase the temperature of the fluid. What I wasn’t expecting was literally boiling the fluid in the first session! I was not particularly fast in this session, and experiencing brake issues I backed off early into it. By the time I got back to the carport, however, the fluid was still at 97c and, although it was less than a week old, had already turned a dark black colour, and definitely smelt burnt.

Image

I also noticed after this session the steering was noticeably heavier and slightly more vague-feeling, which I initially attributed to the cooked fluid. I ran out of time to fit a power steering cooler before this track day, but I would now say that it is an essential thing to have if you are running a quick rack on track- or even through longer sections of twisty roads, and one will be fitted before the next track day.

The other failure I noticed driving home, where the car was very hard to keep in a straight line. I didn’t notice this at the start of the day, but as I was exhausted by this point I figured it was just the AR1’s doing AR1 things, in combination with the quick rack. It felt like the car had dynamic toe, where faster steering movements required more movement to get the same turning angle compared to slower steering inputs, and the steering would randomly change its centred location. This was incredibly fatiguing to drive, at a point where I was already exhausted.

After lifting the car up for a post-track inspection like I normally do the problem was immediately noticeable- the brand new Whiteline steering rack mounting bushes had been literally extruded out from their location in the steering rack mounts! The bushes felt extremely soft to the touch, with only minor force required to deform them. Looking back at footage they seemed to have failed on the second lap of the day- which was at 1:56.890 so not fast at all- but at this point the steering wheel was no longer perfectly centred.

Image

Image

As the new rack didn’t come with oem bushes, and my old ones were completely stuffed, I ended up 3D modelling and then 3D printing new steering rack mount bushes from TPU (thermoplastic polyurethane), which seems to be the same or similar material to what the Whiteline bushes are made from, but much much firmer. So far these have been in the car for about 500kms and even though I only replaced the easy-to-replace bottom bushes (the Whiteline bushes are a split bush and the top halves can only be replaced by dropping the rack) they have held up amazingly well!

Image

Image

Overall the car held up amazingly well, and it only makes me annoyed in myself for holding it back. It still feels big and heavy on track, but that’s half the fun especially as I am not racing for a prize or anything like that. I learnt some stuff, and have some minor things to fix, but that’s half the reason I love this as a hobby!
Last edited by JezzaH6 on Wed Apr 27, 2022 2:11 pm, edited 2 times in total.
2007 Subaru Liberty 3.0r-b 6MT
User avatar
JezzaH6
 
Posts: 104
Joined: Thu Jun 11, 2020 6:57 pm
Location: Melbourne
Car: 2007 3.0r-b 6MT
Real name: Jeremy
Profile URL: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=36687&p=450058#p450058

Re: Member Profile- 2007 3.0r-b sedan 65Z 6MT

Postby Yowie » Sat Nov 13, 2021 10:48 pm

Brilliant write-up. Cheers for the "warts and all" details about what worked, what didn't etc. (not just "I kicked @rse")
User avatar
Yowie
 
Posts: 573
Joined: Tue Jul 21, 2015 10:05 pm
Location: Brisbane
Car: SH Forester XT

Re: Member Profile- 2007 3.0r-b sedan 65Z 6MT

Postby JezzaH6 » Tue Nov 16, 2021 1:12 pm

Yowie wrote:Brilliant write-up. Cheers for the "warts and all" details about what worked, what didn't etc. (not just "I kicked @rse")


Thanks! Always good to contribute to the pool of knowledge that is Club.Lib :lol:
2007 Subaru Liberty 3.0r-b 6MT
User avatar
JezzaH6
 
Posts: 104
Joined: Thu Jun 11, 2020 6:57 pm
Location: Melbourne
Car: 2007 3.0r-b 6MT
Real name: Jeremy
Profile URL: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=36687&p=450058#p450058

Re: Member Profile- 2007 3.0r-b sedan 65Z 6MT

Postby bigBADbenny » Sat Nov 20, 2021 12:56 pm

Some background info regarding the road to rack and ruined bushings :P

I’ve done a lot of research into quick rack upgrades, what’s compatible and what isn’t, Jezza asked me for some related details a while ago, and so I was surprised when he got in contact and said: “it doesn’t fit!”.

That’s because he sourced an FE550 rack from a late jdm GD sti, and the drivers side mount tabs are horizontally in-line.

All Gen4 racks have a horizontally offset drivers side mount, as also found on GH/GR impreza.

But the jdm GR sti quick racks are a widebody rack.
To fit these and retain toe adjustment, it’s necessary use thinner jam nuts, and to trim the inner tie rod ends, or use WL RCA tie rods that feature a deeper thread pocket for the inner tie rods.

In my research and cross referencing related parts, I noticed that the Gen4 and FE550 racks share the same rack rebuild kit.
So it appeared to be theoretically possible that the rack and pinion parts might be interchangeable between the two.

Whilst I’ve been sitting on the required parts for ages, I haven’t had the opportunity to try the upgrade, but when Jezza told me he’d backed himself into a corner with the FE550 purchase, I fessed up the info and the job was done.

Major kudos for the endeavour!

In addition to a power steering cooler, as supplied on some Gen4 models: a set of pipes and a finned loop cooler in front of the radiator, other options might include a jdm sti power steering pump, an under drive power steering pulley, or even a rack de-powering mod.

Maybe the guts of the jdm sti ps pump would fit the lib pump housing! Guess how you might check ;)

I notice in the photos the quick rack is considerably shorter than the slow rack.
Were the inner tie rods the same length/interchangeable?

Do you now have more lock or eg a change in Ackerman angle?
User avatar
bigBADbenny
 
Posts: 10420
Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2011 6:36 pm
Location: Collingwood, Melbourne
Car: MY07 GT-B 6MT OBP Wagon
Real name: Ben Richards
Profile URL: http://tinyurl.com/agvbzop

Re: Member Profile- 2007 3.0r-b sedan 65Z 6MT

Postby nvmylh » Mon Nov 22, 2021 2:56 pm

Hey Jezza had a couple of thoughts about your motor and was wondering if you could answer the following??

1) Any idea what your IAM sits at when at the track and general driving?
2) What fuel do you run?
3) If you monitorred your IAM since your headgasket job (and before), did you notice a change afterwards?
4) did you get your injectors cleaned and tested?

I'm wondering what my motor will be like after I finish the rebuild. The current motor sits at 0.000 IAM like 80% of the time. Then sometimes it will jump to 0.4, but a semi-heavy-load pull or even a long hill will drop that down to 0.2 or 0.0. I'm also planning on machining the stock pistons to drop the compression ratio slightly, will be interesting to see how it runs on the stock tune with between 10.2-10.4 : 1 comp.
nvmylh
 
Posts: 141
Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2010 1:15 pm
Location: Melbourne
Car: '08-H6-Wagon

Re: Member Profile- 2007 3.0r-b sedan 65Z 6MT

Postby JezzaH6 » Mon Jan 24, 2022 10:59 pm

bigBADbenny wrote:In addition to a power steering cooler, as supplied on some Gen4 models: a set of pipes and a finned loop cooler in front of the radiator, other options might include a jdm sti power steering pump, an under drive power steering pulley, or even a rack de-powering mod.

Maybe the guts of the jdm sti ps pump would fit the lib pump housing! Guess how you might check ;)


Well I thought I replied to this but maybe I didn't- possibly it got lost when the forum went down, and I figured I may as well update the response anyway as I have now had the chance to implement a power steering cooler, and do some more testing with the 3D printed bushings!

I ended up going on an 8" two-pass power steering cooler from Performance Warehouse, which uses copper rather than aluminium tubing which should improve the thermal efficiency of the cooler. As my temperatures are so close to the edge as it stands I wanted to ensure the least possible restriction to airflow through the radiator, and didn't want to mess around too much with custom mounts behind the fog lights as I did for my oil cooler. The cooler is mounted in the low-pressure return from the rack before it goes back into the reservoir, and I used double braided -AN6 lines and raceworks fittings to ensure the system is wear-resistant and leak free. The cooler is mounted with custom aluminium brackets to the bolts that also hold up my oil cooler lines where they run behind the crash bar, and everything is painted black to ensure the final result is as stealthy as possible! I flushed the whole loop again and refilled it with Motul ATF to try and get a bit more life out of the system.

Image
Almost unnoticeable against the AC condenser!

Image
With the black nylon outer braiding the lines disappear into the engine bay- good luck noticing them if you didn't know they were there!

Image
Custom-length -AN6 lines. These are so easy to make I absolutely love using them!

This cooler setup, probably in conjunction with the extra 250ish ml of fluid in the longer lines, led to a huge 20+c drop in power steering fluid temperature! Even though the cooler isn't enormous, its copper core and it being situated right in the perfect path for cool air to flow through with minimum resistance makes a big difference.

Image

Would be interesting to see if a WRX STi pump would fit in the H6 location. the pumps do have different part numbers, and I know the low pressure feed into the pump is a different size and layout, so I don't think it would just bolt in. At this stage my plan is to keep a very close eye on the fluid condition, as well as change the fluid in the reservoir every oil change, and perhaps look into the upgrade in the future if I keep killing pumps (this is the 3rd pump in the car in my ownership!).

bigBADbenny wrote:I notice in the photos the quick rack is considerably shorter than the slow rack.
Were the inner tie rods the same length/interchangeable?

Do you now have more lock or eg a change in Ackerman angle?


The quick rack itself is considerably shorter than the original rack- 15mm to be exact. I purchased the rack without ITR's to save on shipping, so I can't comment on the original FE550 ITR's. I used the standard Lib ITR's, which bolt up to the FE550 rack without any issues. As the rack itself is shorter I chose to add the locking washers that are standard on the newer models (there are provisions for these on the Lib and FE550 rack, but the washers don't appear to come fitted from the factory). These washers add 2mm per side, for a total of 4mm, bringing the reduction in rack width to 11mm. I don't think the stock outer tie rod ends would be long enough to work safely with the shorter rack, but the Whiteline tie rods ends have a longer threaded section and have a comfortable number of threads engaged even with an alignment.

The Ackerman angle I believe would be different with the new setup- the total length of a tie rod is now greater, and the location of the pivot point between the 'fixed' rack end inner tie rod ball joint is closer to the centreline of the car. I haven't calculated this though :lol:

As the steering rack assembly uses the inner tie rod ball joints as endstops, which are mounted to the end of the rack, and the FE550 rack is shorter overall, I actually have less steering lock now. Back of the envelope math suggests I have lost about 3.44 degrees of steering lock per side. This isn't noticeable during daily driving, and is barely noticeable in even tight car parks.

Image
Literally back of the envelope!

Aside from a small amount of compression where the steering-rack mount brace bolts on, the 3D printed steering rack bushes held up amazingly well! I ended up leaving these in for over 2000km, including quite a few mountain runs and some long distance driving to boot. These were printed at 100% infill from TPU, and ended up a lot stiffer than the terrible quality whiteline ones they replaced. After removing them there was zero signs of melting or wear, and I actually strongly believe there was no real reason to replace them. I did end up fitting a set of Superpro bushes that I purchased before knowing the 3D printed ones hold up fine, but I would have zero reservations running 3D printed steering rack bushes in the future if needed!

Image

The file is here, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5214808, for anyone wants to play around with them too. I printed these in TPU at 100% infill, but lower infill percentages may be possible to tune the feel and rigidity of the bush. Obviously run these at your own risk and if you don't understand why these do actually work (and that the rack isn't going to fall out even if they do fail) probably best not to mess around with them. They are designed to use the whiteline crush tubes in the centre.
2007 Subaru Liberty 3.0r-b 6MT
User avatar
JezzaH6
 
Posts: 104
Joined: Thu Jun 11, 2020 6:57 pm
Location: Melbourne
Car: 2007 3.0r-b 6MT
Real name: Jeremy
Profile URL: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=36687&p=450058#p450058

Re: Member Profile- 2007 3.0r-b sedan 65Z 6MT

Postby bigBADbenny » Tue Jan 25, 2022 6:12 am

I think it’s potentially a “bad batch” of WL rack bushings!
I saw a similar post on an FB group recently, new bushes, inconsistent steering centering. :shock:
User avatar
bigBADbenny
 
Posts: 10420
Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2011 6:36 pm
Location: Collingwood, Melbourne
Car: MY07 GT-B 6MT OBP Wagon
Real name: Ben Richards
Profile URL: http://tinyurl.com/agvbzop

Re: Member Profile- 2007 3.0r-b sedan 65Z 6MT

Postby JezzaH6 » Tue Jan 25, 2022 9:50 pm

I think I am done playing around with Whiteline's products now. Aside from their anti lift kit I have been unimpressed, to say the least, with the quality of every other Whiteline product I've tried.

I saw that post- for some reason I can't comment in that group. Been trying for months but it remains at 'pending' :roll:
2007 Subaru Liberty 3.0r-b 6MT
User avatar
JezzaH6
 
Posts: 104
Joined: Thu Jun 11, 2020 6:57 pm
Location: Melbourne
Car: 2007 3.0r-b 6MT
Real name: Jeremy
Profile URL: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=36687&p=450058#p450058

Re: Member Profile- 2007 3.0r-b sedan 65Z 6MT

Postby JezzaH6 » Tue Jan 25, 2022 10:31 pm

nvmylh wrote:Hey Jezza had a couple of thoughts about your motor and was wondering if you could answer the following??

1) Any idea what your IAM sits at when at the track and general driving?
2) What fuel do you run?
3) If you monitorred your IAM since your headgasket job (and before), did you notice a change afterwards?
4) did you get your injectors cleaned and tested?

I'm wondering what my motor will be like after I finish the rebuild. The current motor sits at 0.000 IAM like 80% of the time. Then sometimes it will jump to 0.4, but a semi-heavy-load pull or even a long hill will drop that down to 0.2 or 0.0. I'm also planning on machining the stock pistons to drop the compression ratio slightly, will be interesting to see how it runs on the stock tune with between 10.2-10.4 : 1 comp.


Pretty sure I replied to this too but it must have gotten lost in the forum going down!

I don't know what my IAM sits at on track or street normally. I have had a suitable cable for a while, but as I normally run torque pro on my tablet for day-to-day driving I basically never checked. Ignorance is bliss :lol: (not really at all- it would have helped me diagnose the AVCS issue a lot earlier)

I only ever run 98 octane, but pay more attention to servos with fresh tanks, rather than a specific outlet. Around home I normally get fuel from a recently-refurbished Caltex servo.

Unfortunately I had no idea what IAM was when I did the rebuild, so I can't comment on what it was before or after. I haven't gotten around to running a VagCom cable through my dash to my tablet install either, but thanks to Ben's most recent health check-up day it was sitting at about 0.75, with knock being detected at higher RPM likely thanks to no AVCS actuation :cry:

I did not get the injectors cleaned when I did the rebuild, although I guess I probably should have. Fuel trims are sitting around -3 to -5% long term both banks so I don't believe these are a problem.

Do you know why your IAM sits so low? Would be curious to see what happens at the slightly lower compression ratio. Planning on adding boost?
2007 Subaru Liberty 3.0r-b 6MT
User avatar
JezzaH6
 
Posts: 104
Joined: Thu Jun 11, 2020 6:57 pm
Location: Melbourne
Car: 2007 3.0r-b 6MT
Real name: Jeremy
Profile URL: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=36687&p=450058#p450058

Re: Member Profile- 2007 3.0r-b sedan 65Z 6MT

Postby bigBADbenny » Wed Jan 26, 2022 7:36 am

I just did the left and right bank intake avcs filter delete on my 2.5t.

Avcs was functional but quite laggy, now its working properly, I have less knock learning.

It appears that an avcs system under duress from restricted oil supply makes the system work harder to retain sync and this creates mechanical noise that registers as knock.

I think the filters are a good idea, mainly when breaking in an engine that has had machining work, where swarf may be present.

Obviously swarf can damage the solenoids and cam gears.

If you’re deleting or replacing your avcs filters, they’re generally always found at the block oil gallery supply end of the oil pipe.

The main exception being eg exhaust avcs where the filter is in the avcs ocv manifold on the head.
User avatar
bigBADbenny
 
Posts: 10420
Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2011 6:36 pm
Location: Collingwood, Melbourne
Car: MY07 GT-B 6MT OBP Wagon
Real name: Ben Richards
Profile URL: http://tinyurl.com/agvbzop

Re: Member Profile- 2007 3.0r-b sedan 65Z 6MT

Postby JezzaH6 » Thu Jan 27, 2022 10:48 pm

AVCS Learnings

bigBADbenny wrote:It appears that an avcs system under duress from restricted oil supply makes the system work harder to retain sync and this creates mechanical noise that registers as knock.

I think the filters are a good idea, mainly when breaking in an engine that has had machining work, where swarf may be present.

Obviously swarf can damage the solenoids and cam gears.

If you’re deleting or replacing your avcs filters, they’re generally always found at the block oil gallery supply end of the oil pipe.


Interesting theory with the AVCS system working harder registering as knock- definitely makes sense! I totally understand why Subaru would have fitted something like these, especially for initial run in. Haven't been able to log mine after doing a bunch of work but hopefully can soon!

Mine were situated in the block end of the oil lines; I put new filtered banjos in when I rebuilt the engine at the start of 2020. After learning of my AVCS issues (thanks again BBB!) they were the first thing on my list to check. On the EZ30 the drivers side one is awkwardly situated right on top of the factory oil cooler, but a couple of different spanners with different offsets made it somewhat easier. Unfortunately (or fortunately depending on how you look at it :lol: ) both filters had essentially nothing stuck in them. I decided to remove them anyway to make sure they don't become a problem.

Image
Essentially no crud built up in the filters

Looking at the live values on BTSSM the cam angles were barely hitting 1 degree, meaning the system may not be initialising properly and which lead me to want to check the oil pressure switches on the back of the heads. While these are actually the oil pressure diagnostics switch for the VVL, at the time I couldn't find any information as to whether their reading was also used for the AVCS. These are pressure switches, not actual sensors, which open a set of contacts when the pressure is above about 5psi. Testing these with a small compressor revealed a problem; the contact resistance of both switches was all over the place! With pressure applied to the switch (so the contacts should be open, 'infinite' resistance) it floated around 5k - 600k ohms, and with no pressure applied (contacts should be closed, very low, ideally zero ohms) they floated between 50 and 1200 ohms.

Finding these switches proved a little bit annoying as they weren't listed on partsouq, but a bit of searching found 25240AA060 to be the correct part number.

Image

Image

Image
Very inconsistent readings

Unfortunately, changing these switches didn't give me my AVCS back :no2:
2007 Subaru Liberty 3.0r-b 6MT
User avatar
JezzaH6
 
Posts: 104
Joined: Thu Jun 11, 2020 6:57 pm
Location: Melbourne
Car: 2007 3.0r-b 6MT
Real name: Jeremy
Profile URL: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=36687&p=450058#p450058

Re: Member Profile- 2007 3.0r-b sedan 65Z 6MT

Postby JezzaH6 » Thu Jan 27, 2022 10:50 pm

Ignore
Last edited by JezzaH6 on Fri Apr 15, 2022 6:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
2007 Subaru Liberty 3.0r-b 6MT
User avatar
JezzaH6
 
Posts: 104
Joined: Thu Jun 11, 2020 6:57 pm
Location: Melbourne
Car: 2007 3.0r-b 6MT
Real name: Jeremy
Profile URL: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=36687&p=450058#p450058

Re: Member Profile- 2007 3.0r-b sedan 65Z 6MT

Postby bigBADbenny » Fri Jan 28, 2022 5:48 am

Do keep in mind the oil pressure diagnostic switches have a tapered thread.

Overtightening the switches on reinstall will crack the head, requiring a very fiddly thread repair or head replacement.

Regarding AVCS on my car, the knock learning is still active after removing the filters and regaining improved avcs vvt sync.

I still want to do another deactivate AVCS test: ecu reset and don’t let avcs recalibrate.

Interested to see a datalog of yours with vvt & vvl parameters once the work is complete.

Does the vvl system also use filters?
User avatar
bigBADbenny
 
Posts: 10420
Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2011 6:36 pm
Location: Collingwood, Melbourne
Car: MY07 GT-B 6MT OBP Wagon
Real name: Ben Richards
Profile URL: http://tinyurl.com/agvbzop

Re: Member Profile- 2007 3.0r-b sedan 65Z 6MT

Postby nvmylh » Fri Jan 28, 2022 10:52 am

Interesting about your IAM! I'm interested to see what mine will be with the rebuilt motor, hopefully it improves!

Agree on the fuel comment too. While I generally use BP98, if I see a tanker refilling the station, I'll drive to another or come back the next day.

My trims are about the same I think, I've tried UEC, new O2 sensors, cleaned AFM and no changes.

Boost is definitely on the cards with the rebuilt engine, but maybe only < 6psi. Whatever is safe and reliable on 98fuel. My last EJ251 is still going strong on 10:1comp and 8psi (+ my tuning!) so fingers crossed.

Awesome write up on the oil pressure switches, will add them to my next partsouq order!
nvmylh
 
Posts: 141
Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2010 1:15 pm
Location: Melbourne
Car: '08-H6-Wagon

Re: Member Profile- 2007 3.0r-b sedan 65Z 6MT

Postby JezzaH6 » Tue Feb 01, 2022 1:01 pm

bigBADbenny wrote:Do keep in mind the oil pressure diagnostic switches have a tapered thread.

Overtightening the switches on reinstall will crack the head, requiring a very fiddly thread repair or head replacement.

Regarding AVCS on my car, the knock learning is still active after removing the filters and regaining improved avcs vvt sync.

I still want to do another deactivate AVCS test: ecu reset and don’t let avcs recalibrate.

Interested to see a datalog of yours with vvt & vvl parameters once the work is complete.

Does the vvl system also use filters?


Yes 100% worth noting the tapered thread on the pressure switches! Have seen more than a few posts of people managing to split the connection point by overtightening these.

On an EZ30 these are attached to the OCV oil-routing assembly (for a lack of a better word). These are a separate part and bolt onto the head, so are easier to replace than the built-in ones on an EJ. Still an absolute PITA if you manage to crack one though!

I keep meaning to get a proper data log again- but with work and life being crazy busy free time has been incredibly rare at the moment... :cry:
Last edited by JezzaH6 on Fri Nov 24, 2023 4:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.
2007 Subaru Liberty 3.0r-b 6MT
User avatar
JezzaH6
 
Posts: 104
Joined: Thu Jun 11, 2020 6:57 pm
Location: Melbourne
Car: 2007 3.0r-b 6MT
Real name: Jeremy
Profile URL: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=36687&p=450058#p450058

PreviousNext

Return to Post your mods

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 9 guests