RAPTOR SUPERCHARGER FOR LIB 3.0

[rooby]

We I wouldn't be buying a kit for a good 10 months or so because I need to get my full lisence but what are the estimated kw from intercooled option.. They say 230kw on the website.. That true?

Says 195 - 220 kw @ 7.5 psi on the website.

[Tradewind]

Finky

That number is an estimated number - however I think we will need to bump the boost to 9psi with the cooler as well to get that number ................Always remembering that if you are shooting for max power then you best spend max dollars on a GOOD exhaust/headers to free the flow for those extra horses

[Finky]

We I wouldn't be buying a kit for a good 10 months or so because I need to get my full lisence but what are the estimated kw from intercooled option.. They say 230kw on the website.. That true?

Says 195 - 220 kw @ 7.5 psi on the website.

I read ages oge soz.. Forgot what it was...

[Tradewind]

Tim:

With the IC version, will the MAF sit at the throttle or after the IC into the throttle?

Ed

The MAF will still be at the throttle, after IC but immediately before throttle body

[Tradewind]

Been on the preparation trail again today

This time service the engine oil/filter, investigating what is under that big plastic cover/tray

Tray is simple to remove and everything you are looking for re oil change is easily accessible - see pic

As everyone knows ...... over time the H6 engine will see some of its oil regulated functions not functioning as they should which effects cam timing AVCS function and more. Gook and Gunt begins to block filter screens and small oil passages .......... therefore I initiated the oil change with a can of AMSOIL ENGINE FLUSH. Now if you dont know about this product then just know it does a MASSIVE cleaning job inside your engine and dont use it on an old motor or you might just accelerate your oil consumption massively. - see product pic. Note to Ed from XTR, you should recommend this to your customers to improve AVCS function and prevent problems with oil screens clogging

The oil looked pretty clean until the hot idle period had finished - gunk was loosened from all corners of the engine. Its a very smelly process with vapours coming from everywhere including the exhaust while the flush is working though the motor

I refilled with PENRITE HPR5 (extra 10) Synthetic oil - running very sweet - http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/motor-oil/hpr/hpr_5

Next task, investigate those idler pulleys for wear in the bearings, sure enough both of them not running smooth and days about done. So out with some 6203 sealed ceramic bearings (I have those things lying around ) rated at 450000rpm and replaced those idler pulley bearings. I pressed out the old bearings, cleaned all the dust out of the back of the pulleys and pressed in the new bearings. I can be sure of 2 things now - 1 the only H6 in the world with ceramic idler bearings and 2 I have idler bearings that will NEVER fail in the next 500 000km FWIW! At $130 each these arent for everyone and I have plenty in stock should you want your Lib idler bearings the best they can be.

Now after the tray was removed I can see some REAL POTENTIAL for improving airflow around the sump, manifold area. I believe I will manufacture a custom aluminium under tray (optional) for those with supercharger kits to greatly lower the oil temp of the sump, as the current no airflow situation certainly allows a LOT of heat soak in this lower area. A must for those in hot climates. Will get to this one soon

Final thing - the engine drive belt is having problems, there is NO problem with belt, tension "seems" OK but there is a LOT of wear in the tensioner pivot joint. See image of belt contact (rubbing marks) with front of timing case. The only conclusion is that tensioner needs replacment. Things like this can become even more of a problem once an SC has been bolted on - so sort it now and it will be all happy days later.

Finally - uploaded XTR tune V3.0 B yesterday, really loving this tune, very fuel efficient in lower engine speed range and ultra smooth but with excellent FBW response. TOP WORK Ed, now we just adjust tune for all out power and performance from 4000 - 7500 rpm, the low end is PERFECT. Ed, gets this stuff done right people, talk to him if you want Liberty ecstascy

Note: The spark plugs were replaced a few weeks ago - all good there.

Are we ready for the SC kit yet - nearly!

[west_minist]

We use the kleen-Rite product here: http://www.run-rite.com/industry/3001.html

NF have one so I plan to try that. A lot of people are frightened for stuff like that. But when I am 2-3months over due from a general 3 months service, I run it twice.
http://www.nitrous.com.au/products_oilflush.html

1) Add Kleen-Rite and run for 8mins
2) Drain Oil and replace with cheap oil
3) Add kleen rite and run 5-8mins
4) Drain oil
5) Change filter and replace with Good oil.

Even with the last flush, Oil still dark. It just makes me want to do a 3 flush lol Stupses.

Tim, your exhaust port looks like the 2Gen, meaning 3 ports per head. Lovely

Well I have an updated fuel map for you. So you can tell me how that enhance v4. Thanks for your kind words.

On another note, I tuned out the massive pinging issues the Tribeca has. We will still check and see why, but the dealer been lazy to make checks on the Injectors and other issues. No way a stock car could work that bad and acceptable. Once we come NF Booster, I will see how much pinging we will get until.

[Tradewind]

Well well, I never knew how our customer in Bulgaria got on with his installation - this turned up by pure magic. I was looking for something else

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIDi74zP ... er&list=UL

Can someone list this file for me properly so it previews in post - thanks in advance

The tuning in this case was provided by Chargertech in Holland, I have no idea how it performs etc

From what I can see its around 270hp (195ish Kw) - am guessing at the wheels - 08 Liberty Outback. This could well be the case if conditions were cold. I have no clue on the exhaust or anything else associated with car. That type of dyno is very friendly for power readings as the wheels literally balance on top of the roller as opposed to the types we use here with car is strapped down hard to run between 2 rollers.

I think its more or less the same as we have been seeing here and great to see it running well.

[Kekotic]

[Tradewind]

Here are the excited people on the first start

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3fEWwcoq ... er&list=UL

If you can understand Bulgarian then you will be able to share their experience lol

[Tradewind]

Many thanks chaotic

Can you do this one too please

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIDi74zP ... er&list=UL

[smythie]

Tim, chaotic used the youtube1 tags on either end of the url (take the &feature suffix off the url)

[youtube 1]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3fEWwcoq9KI[/youtube1]


[youtube 1]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIDi74zPOcY[/youtube1]

[Tradewind]

Thanks Smythie

Normally I can use that stuff but I seem to be missing something as I set it up for youtube here



Nothing to say this week, a little more tuning with Edward as I find the time to fit it in. Fuel economy results are very good with the current XTR tune, i am now happy to run 98 octane fuel now as it is being burnt efficiently. No point wasting good money on pouring high cost fuel through an engine thats not making the most use of it. I like power but I like efficiency just as much

I may do some BASIC heat mapping under the bonnet this week, these H6s are being made to run VERY hot by not having much airflow at all around the motor. I want to pinpoint the hottest areas and then make changes like removing bonnet seals and maybe the undertray and see if the temps can be brought down. The life of the motor oil and just about everything else will increase measureably if some of the abundant heat can be taken away

[kleinerbastler]

@Tim
I´ve read "...now we just adjust tune for all out power and performance from 4000 - 7500 rpm, the low end is PERFECT...", that your redline will be at 7500/min - is thats true???
I had contact with a common tuner from the Netherlands, he adviced me not to go over 7000/min, because of the heads, springs and valves, they seem to be the weakest things and that there will be some cooling and lubrication problems at the internals. But i can´t say anything from my experience, i still have my first car and first engine . Maybe some long time experiences from down under?

Ingmar

[kiks]

EZ30 intake valve springs are ridiculously soft. Just saying...

[Tradewind]

Well, since I have been XTR tuning I notice the limiter now higher than stock!

@ kiks, interesting. The 4 cyl Subaru are the total opposite, they hold nicely to 7500rpm and are never recommended for upgrade unless cam lift (high lift cams) is beyond their capacity. Soft springs hey - what a useless idea especially when Subaru know how to do a decent spring. I suppose DeMoboss is still running his stock springs at 10psi ............ is that true?