Seal kit replacement advice

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Seal kit replacement advice

Postby Dellul » Wed Nov 29, 2023 3:31 pm

I'm looking at doing a full seal replacement down to the valve cover gaskets so just looking for advice on what seal kit to purchase , special equipment i might need or any other advice that may make the job easier. My car has done over 330ks now so a lot of ks, and a lot of oil leaks. I have had a full pressure test done to the engine and apparently it is still a good engine.
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Re: Seal kit replacement advice

Postby Dellul » Mon Dec 11, 2023 4:04 pm

So I'm gearing up to replace the valve cover gaskets this week. In the 2008 legacy/outback workshop manual i managed to download it states to apply a "liquid gasket" on 4 specified sections on the cylinder head . I am planning on doing this just wondering why on all of the tutorials I've found online no one mentions this?
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Re: Seal kit replacement advice

Postby subyroo » Tue Dec 12, 2023 11:00 am

Dellul wrote:In the 2008 legacy/outback workshop manual i managed to download it states to apply a "liquid gasket" on 4 specified sections on the cylinder head.


Is this the manual you downloaded?
http://www.mediafire.com/download/in4uq1mvt38ao8g/GenMarket_Legacy_FSM_2008_(BP-BL_HTML_version).zip
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Re: Seal kit replacement advice

Postby Dellul » Tue Dec 12, 2023 12:36 pm

Looks like it, I have a pdf version. Pg.1109 mentions using a liquid gasket on certain sections of the head
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Re: Seal kit replacement advice

Postby bigBADbenny » Sat Dec 23, 2023 8:23 am

It’s definitely a consideration for ej255 valve cover gaskets: gray 3bond is sparingly applied to the corners and convoluted areas as per the diagram in the FSM procedure.
There’s a lot of related considerations to successfully doing a valve cover job so I kept notes on the pitfalls:

Valve cover gaskets

Gray 3bond as per FSM instructions, don’t go overboard with the it.
In Australia, Burson stock 3bond products.

Inspect the rear lower corners for seated gasket after offering it up, but before tightening the bolts, failure to check will lead to a leak plus replacing the gasket.

Very carefully inspect the gasket is seated with torch & mirror before *nipping* up the location specific *shoulder* bolts in order as per FSM, again.

Prep with solvent or brake clean prior.

Ideally you’d let it sit and cure for a while on completing.

Iirc, the 3bond is required at the corners and convoluted areas, where it’s needed to help the rubber gasket seal.

If you have time, the trick is to offer up the gasket to the rocker cover, place it on a clean flat surface and let the 3bond set a little before offering it up to the head.

Using a torque wrench on accessible bolts will help calibrate your feel for nipping up the more inaccessible bolts.

The bolts have specific lengths and being shoulder bolts, specific locations on each head. The FSM has the locations and torque specs, or use a written diagram on cardboard and punch the bolts in their locations on the diagram.

Grind down a spare 10mm 12pt socket is in the plan for next time, plus assorted ring spanners.

Links to all year model market FSM workshop manuals: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=34980
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