club.liberty.asn.au

I am tying to buy a timing belt kit for my busted arse 1999 liberty.

It is a 2.5L, EJ1 engine, AWD wagon.

The timing belt kits come with a water pump, and there are two options: Thermostat facing down, and thermostat facing forwards.

Can I tell what my engine has without removing the timing belt cover??

You’d peep the thermostat housing, probably with the car on stands.
Failing that or feedback from another owner, have a look at your FSM or do a parts search via model or VIN eg at Partsouq.com. Info here:
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=34980


Took a quick peek at this site:
http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/e ... ater_pump/
Looks to be downward orientation for both auto and manual...
Useage info:
http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/21200AA072/
OF site is not 110% reliable so do a VIN part search on partsouq to confirm

Google image search can work well too
https://www.google.com.au/search?q=99+l ... 20&bih=438




....

It faces down.

I have a bigger issue though. Blown head gasket.

Is it worth repairing, or should I junk the car?

If you’re in Melb I can recommend some good mechanics...
Otherwise s/h engine from the self serve wreckers for $400/600 odd...

What’s the related evidence???

How much you spend depends on if you can diy or not/and or did you cook the engine.
If not cooked, the head gaskets* can be changed with the engine in the car even**.
* If the heads are within a tho on a straight edge.
**Undo the two engine mounts, move engine side to side, up for required clearance.

Use aftermarket 3 layer gaskets and a dayco timing kit for say $500 odd diy.
Add $500 odd if heads req reco.

there is coolant running out from, I think, where the head gasket is, and dripping visibly down over the oil filter. Getting worse by the day.

Also the timing belt has pretty obviously not been changed at the specified time (the car is 180,000, and the timing belt is frayed down to the metal).

mechanic says $1800 for a new (second hand) engine with a new timing belt.

What else should he look at while the engine is out?? the clutch? Does that add much work/$???

Clutch, clutch fork, braided clutch line, rear main seal, shifter bushings/sts, all related mounts inc engine, box, pitch.

$800/1600 diy/mech pending quotes/parts prices.

I paid $200 to get my s/h clutch & lwfw assy machined & balanced.

Add $3000+ for a 6mt n diff conversion.

It’s either a huge opportunity to go beserk with tasty upgrades... or not

Subaru 2.5i head gaskets weep but if you can keep up with the coolant loss - safely... Just keep driving it into the ground.

Just be aware that cooking the engine will add to the rebuild tally.