FAQ: Subaru FSM Service Manual Parts Procedures Diagnostics

[bigBADbenny]

FAQ: Subaru FSM, Service Manual, Workshop Manual, Parts, Procedures, Diagnostics, CEL, Check Engine Light, DTC, Diagnostic Trouble Code.

Scroll down for service manuals...

CEL, DTC, MIL, Christmas Tree Lights on dash?

If your car has mechanical issues, but no flashing lights on the dash, download and keyword search the FSM workshop manual document for the issue.
If the car has flashing lights on dash, get the codes scanned then search the FSM document for that diagnostic trouble code.


If you have flashing lights on your dash, can’t use cruise control, your car is probably in limp home mode and has one or more CEL’s (check engine light) aka DTC’s (diagnostic trouble code).

You can get the car scanned at an auto shop, eg SCA etc, your mechanic, or lookup how to display CEL/DTC’s on your odometer, assuming you don’t already have an obdii plug and app, eg Btssm, Romraider, Torque etc.

Here’s how to display CEL’s on the odometer, specifically Gen4 Liberty/Legacy, info from FSM:
You may need to search online for the for your year and model.

https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/0 ... tcs.19053/

Or here:

https://www.google.com.au/search?biw=27 ... VAhM9yJWQ0

As you can see in this video, there’s definitely a technique to the procedure!
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=DhDzA-6dFm4

My05 ADM GT codes display on odometer:
viewtopic.php?t=1492

My05-09:
viewtopic.php?f=16&t=20112#p445315

Gen3 BE/BH retrieve error codes on odometer:
https://www.legacygt.com/topic/55845-di ... bd-reader/

Impreza extract fault codes:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJ9-HNBUBc4


Make a note of the codes or take a photo, accuracy is important as many codes are similar but all are unique.

Once you have the code you can google it with eg subaru as a keyword.
Or the code, and the diagnostic procedures can be searched for in your cars FSM.

DTC diagnostic considerations/no code drivability issues:

Generally the diagnostic code names refer to the affected sensor or systems, not the actual fault itself.
Eg P0011 cam position sensor/camshaft position over advanced is very often an avcs or oil supply issue, not a cam position sensor fault, as but one example.

Its a really important point: proper diagnostics involves not making assumptions and not swapping parts as a first step, but requires following the DTC diagnostic procedures, plus being aware of any related or upstream faults that might have contributed to the DTC fault.
Also DTC fault codes are not absolute as per FSM diagnostics, but can be caused by related issues that might not even be covered in the FSM procedures.
Meaning it’s always good practice to search enthusiast forums for related outlier causes of your current DTC.
Additionally cars can have drivability issues that don’t throw DTC codes, either because the relevant setting thresholds haven’t been reached as regards eg fuel and knock learning or eg ecu/sensor self checks.
However you can address your fundamental engine health stats *during warm idle* using any obdii scanner and app, your mechanics scan tool, Romraider, Btssm or AP, and compare the figures to the warm idle specs in your year model FSM. The specs page can be found by searching the FSM pdf for eg “hg” specifically intake manifold vacuum.
You’ll want to compare at warm idle: rpm, afr, intake manifold relative pressure, fuel learning and fuel correction, coolant temperature. If any of the stats are out of range, including rpm surging, it’s time to perform basic health checks to get to the cause. Eg: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=36513

Additionally the FSM has general diagnostic interviews and diagnostic trees for no code drivability issues, eg no crank no start and crank no start: don’t be afraid to search!

FSM links!
Procedures, diagrams and diagnostics are found in your Field Service Manual aka Factory Service Manual aka FSM:

ADM FSM’s... Some but not all can be found in the master list on SLI.net:

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?1 ... nuals-(FSM)-Every-Model-USDM-EU

Or here (if the link above is down):

AUDM Gen4 FSM: includes RHD EJ20Y/X:

https://drive.google.com/drive/mobile/f ... irection=a

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=site ... ent=safari

JDM FSM’s:
http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/

All models:
http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/

So awesome, some of the FSM's linked here are in html form but will open an a mobile phone, very useful for a quick check of the diagnostic procedures related to a specific CEL. Make a donation to this invaluable service, I did.

PDF or HTML FSM?

So many FSM's are in PDF form, download the link, open the document in a pdf reader and search your keywords...

Plenty of the FSM's in these lists are in HTML form, and need a browser that supports this format, luckily SeaMonkey browser will do the job and is availble for PC's and Mac. Download it here: https://www.seamonkey-project.org/

So the HTML FSM will unzip as a folder, drag the index.html link to the SeaMonkey browser icon in your programs list and it should open to the FSM home page.

Some of the info inside is model, or more specifically engine specific, and this will be referred to at the lower end of each page:

H4SO, 4 cylinder single overhead cam engines, 2.0i & 2.5i models...

H4DO, 4 cylinder dual overhead cam engines, 2.0r & late 2.5i models...

H4DOTC, 4 cylinder dual overhead cam turbo engines, 2.0t & 2.5t models...

H6DO, 6 cylinder dual overhead cam engines, 3.0 & 3.6 models...

So generally if I'm looking up something model and market specific, in a PDF FSM, I'll seach for the model type first then the component name.



More FSM's:

Postfl legacy FSM:
https://legacyiv.weebly.com/


Whole bunch of Subaru FSM’s in this Google Drive link I found on FB, thank you OP!
This covers BRZ etc too, go up one directory level for other manufacturers.
https://drive.google.com/drive/mobile/f ... irection=a

Thanks Denis Ryan via Subaru Mechanics FB group:

https://drive.google.com/drive/mobile/f ... 9fdzx0vWPI



Some Subaru FSM's not on Sli.net may be found here:
https://drive.google.com/drive/mobile/f ... nT69Cf1O5k
http://www.allcarmanuals.com/models-Subaru.html
http://ken-gilbert.com/impreza-manuals
https://workshop-manuals.com/subaru/
Subaru to 2020: https://cardiagn.com/subaru/
Wrx/STi to 2018: http://www.wrxinfo.com/service_manuals/

Parts

A guide to DIY Subaru parts translation:

Use your FSM in conjunction with the parts listing via vin on eg partsouq.com/en/search/vin? or

How to find your Subaru VIN: https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+ ... CA0&uact=5

Here's my car:
https://partsouq.com/en/search/vin?vin= ... H37G048249
Swap your vin for mine in the link or put your vin in the search box...

Or find your car/model/grade on http://www.opposedforces.com
Here's my car again:
http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/en_b13/type_36/
Go to the main menu and choose: Legacy>B13>European >Wagon>2.5L dohc turbo>Fulltime 4wd>6spd manual>Grade 2.5GTB>normal suspension>right hand drive
= click that link for parts diagrams. Backtrack and you can find your specific car...
If it's not there, revert to partsouq vin search.

If, like me, you can’t access Opposed Forces site on mobile cell data on a mobile phone, quite irritating: try use a VPN service or an internet browser that has a built in VPN eg Opera.

Opposed forces is great but it only covers up to BP/BL Liberty/Legacy, GR/GH Impreza and SH Forester.

Another scenario is finding parts for a car/model/grade where you don't have access to the vin.
Go to a car sales site, eg Carsales, punch in your keywords eg "Liberty my07 2.5i VIC" find matching cars in Victoria, note the plate number and smash it into the VicRoads registration check website:
https://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/registr ... on-enquiry
Bingo! You got VIN which can be used eg on Partsouq.com

Buying parts: get quotes via part number (or VIN) from your dealership, Benny's Custom Works (highly recommended, get in touch as not all stock is listed on their website: https://www.bennyscustomworks.com), Garage88, Revzone, Gotitrex, Tuspeed, Street to Track, Kobe Motorsport etc or via your mechanic.

For JDM parts search and cross referencing, http://www.jp-carparts.com is excellent!
Here’s a search for the longer rear hub bolts (901000258) for jdm alloy trailing arms.
The different arms can be seen in the diagrams...
https://jp-carparts.com/subaru/partlist ... =901000258

Online/international: try Flatirons, Celtic Motorsports, Rallysport Direct, Jegs, Nengun, JapanParts, Amayama, eBay, Partsouq etc.
Indeed googling that oddball part number ^^^ will give a thorough view of international oem parts vendors:
https://www.google.com.au/search?q=buy+ ... ent=safari

Secondhand or used parts, try your local self server wreckers or Subaru specialist wreckers.
You can actually use google to find these, even google maps!

At least get an idea of the online prices available, before trying mainstream auto shops eg Bursons, Repco or even your local dealership. They’ll be competitive on common service parts, less so on some items like O2 sensors etc. The latter always buy genuine regardless of vendor...


Parts Usage info

That's right: some parts are specific to only your car, others fit a very wide range of years/models/grades.
Those cars are ALL potential part donors.

How do you find this info?
Well for example, find a parts diagram on eg opposed forces, click the part number, you'll be taken to a page that shows USAGE.
Which is a list of ALL the cars that use this part.

You can see this on parts websites as well, you may have found the part via a VIN search...
Now search the site for the part number itself and very often the models it fits will be listed.

This means you can source your part from a potentially larger range of models, cars that will actually be common in the wreckers yards. More on that below…

This brings us to the concept of parts equivalence… That is… equivalent part numbers.
It's not so relevant here as we're generally well served for spares, but some parts can be produced by different manufacturers, for different brands and models of cars.
This more often applies to generic parts like fuel pumps, filters and so on, but searching online for equivalent part numbers can save money and hassles!



Wreckers and Self Serve Wreckers:

Let's elaborate on the option of sourcing parts at wreckers and self serve wreckers:

You can find these on Google and or Google maps! Eg: keyword self serve wreckers, subaru wreckers etc…

Most of these businesses have websites with stock lists and pictures.
You can even sign up for stock updates.

So you've found your car at the wreckers, you can call them and ask for availability, pricing, delivery or pick up (wreckers), some self serve wreckers offer the sourcing removal option as well. Have your VIN on hand...

Self server wreckers:

Be sure to check all T&C's before proceeding!

For example, pulling a part that's part of an assembly may incur an extra charge, so ask if you're unsure.
This is because removing that specific part from the assy may render the remainder useless.

Some offer parts warranty, you may need to pay a little more for the part.

You'll need a few bucks in change for entry, covered shoes, trousers and long sleeve shirt, preferably a hat and gloves, prepare for inclement weather and MUD.

Tool-wise, I like to bring a good 1/2 & 1/4" socket and bit set, 2' breaker bar, pliers, cutters, rags and bags… but not too much, and nothing you’re not prepared to lose in the morass.

The wrecks are all propped up on steelies, but you can request a Manitou (offroad forklift) to eg lift an engine or box you've made ready for pulling.
They will usually supply wheelbarrows to loan, for carting parts.

You cannot bring in jacks, jumper packs, grinders or anything else that may cause sparks or fires, however, sawzalls are usually ok.

The staff are generally time-poor due to dealing with the public AND industry parts requests, have low expectations regarding manners and customer service!

Don't bother making enquiries without having first done your research, eg VIN, model, grade, year etc or an understanding of using the resources outlined above, to know what equivalent models/years also might contain your part.

Bear in mind these businesses have extensive surveillance and are very used to dealing with lowest common denominator type customers, so be aware of the rules and regs and stick to them!

Otherwise, the trick with the self serve wreckers is to visit regularly, preferably in person, or on the website.
You want to get to that wreck ASAP!

It's the quick and the dead basically.
There's money to be made, so you're actually in competition with a wide variety of professional pickers.
The other important thing is these businesses are open on weekends but do visit early to beat the crowds.


Don't forget to bookmark all links relevant to your car and situation

Here’s an example of using this info to assist with diagnostis and parts sourcing:

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=35541

[bigBADbenny]

Tl/dr?

U can get help w/ yr car on eg FB...

And the fsm & parts into are the key to giving your reqest context.

Or this forum, eg actually make a member profile to keep track of your mods & fixes

[bigBADbenny]

Regarding parts equivalencies, here’s an example for two common service items:

Gen4 liberty cabin air filter
Oem p/n from opposed forces:

72880AG000

Wesfil WACF5231
Ryco RCA104P 87139~47010~83
AC102Z
72880AG000
72880-AG000
CA1101
CA-1101
24883 883
AC102

Air filter intake
Oem p/n:

16546AA120

NISSAN 16546-AA090
NISSAN 16546-AA12A
NISSAN AY120FJ004
SUBARU 16546-AA090
SUBARU 16546AA10A
SUBARU 16546AA120
TOYOTA V9112F008
WESFIL WA1184
AC DELCO ACA220
KN KN33-2304 33-2304
AF2031-2304
MANN FILTER C2201
RYCO A15627 A1527FG
SAKURA A1876 A-1876 FA1876 FA-1876 

[bigBADbenny]

Tune & mods FAQ:
viewtopic.php?f=56&t=20196&start=0
Disclaimer:
This guide was written, primarily from memory, based on everything I had ever read in my research on open source tuning of Subarus.
The keyword is open source, a community generated project for the benefit of all. If you can contribute anything to this guide please add your comments and of course CMIIW on any points, that is, correct me if I'm wrong. I'll strive to refine and add to the info here regardless.
Needless to say, attempting any of the procedures in this guide will be entirely at your own risk.

Preamble:
Please don't even consider modifying the engine of your Subaru without getting a tune first, and then getting that tune adjusted for subsequent modifications.
This applies especially to the exhaust, intake, turbo and fueling systems. Your Subaru is highly intolerant of mods without suitable tuning!
If you mod without a tune, your (especially turbo) car will run terribly and probably blow a piston ring land, rod or bearing, requiring an engine rebuild or replacement costing thousands of dollars.

The stock tune is optimized primarily for knock control and emissions mitigation, so even a stock car can benefit from a tune, especially as regards enhancing reliability, economy and performance. Some tuners are also expert in improving the response of the automatic gearbox, which even further reinforces the case for tuning a stock car.

Using a laptop pc and a Tactrix OBDII is the best method for keep tabs on your engine's health and paves the way for getting your car tuned. For day to day use I recommend the BtSsm app used with the BtSsm BT plug, Tactrix or VagCom plugs.
Bare minimum and better than nothing: elm327 and Torque app etc.

Preamble Part 2: (aka the conundrum of exquisite destruction, aka lets boil a frog)

Power is a dangerous thing in inexperienced hands.

The classic quote is: " the performance felt absolutely fantastic... and then it blew up ".

So you have your stock, tuned-for-emissions, car, with its tiny turbo and intercooler, all optimised for low end response, perhaps you upgrade the exhaust and maybe the inlet and it sounds more powerful, hopefully you got a tune too, but wow it's going great and you want more, it's just numbers, right? More boost more power! More power! It feels amazing, more boost!!! Right? WOOT! I'm an unashamed POWER addict!!! YEAH!!

No. It's just going to feel great then blow up. It will be a failed head gasket, broken ringland, cracked cylinder liner, lifted head spun bearing, bent rod or blown turbo, but it will be gone. Why?

Firstly: due to a lack of any enhanced support and disregarding the limits of the stock components.
A car is basically a support system for a series of controlled explosions, air fire, fuel and spark must all work in harmony to provide motive power.
If balance is not maintained, failure will ensue.

Secondly: Because the ej255 (and to a degree the other garden variety turbo EJ's etc.) was developed for extra torque at stock power levels only. Aspects of its design for that purpose mean inherent compromises to factors that relate to high power builds. Rod ratio, oiling and cylinder strength being the primary candidates.
A fairly weak serial delivery fuel line system being the other.
Uel headers on the postFL being another. Put them all together, it's intolerant to running on the edge.

Thirdly: stock tune optimised for emissions first. You want a drive-ability/reliability tune.

What the heck am I even talking about?
Well here it is in an edited quote from one of our most experienced members, Mick aka dr20t:

My strong advice to anyone chasing over 200kw atw from an EJ series motor is to ensure its tuned on a dyno, with knock ears. This is even more important on stock pistons running 98 Ron fuel. E85 I would be more concerned about cylinder pressure and dynamic compression ratio which can only be tested on a dyno as you can push well past MBT on e85 without knowing it until you get reversion or diminishing piston speed / torque. And that can only be properly done on a dyno.

In my opinion you can't blame a tuner for an under engineered engine from the get go. Whoever thinks the ej255 is a good platform for anything over 200kw atw is off their tree. The ej255 is an economy engine not a race engine.

Again it does come down to quality of parts and build quality but in this instance the fact is the ej255 is not conducive to sustainable high power. I know I've said in the past that they can be built to 230awkw reliably. But the more I learn the more I refine that backward. The ej255 is simply not built to tolerate high cylinder pressures for a long time in stock form.

Moral of the story - you pay to play. Bolt on mod choice is critical, as is engine history etc. Tune needs to be spot on and don't risk any bolt on mods without a tune.
Mick

Thanks Mick!
To sum up, if you want reliability over time, the EJ255 is not the engine to chase a dyno figure to brag about.
Its an engine that can shine, on the street, with supporting mods and a conservative tune.

Whilst this guide is not specific to the ej255 I thought the point was worth hammering home, and most of the issues covered do affect the 2 liters and certain generations of ej257s in varying degrees. Heads up!

So get a tune, support and build upon the stock system with the right mods and enjoy a more reliable, efficient and fun Subaru.
PS: Even more so if you have an auto and choose the right tuner.

Research:
RomRaider.com
Bad Noodle guide to tuning.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... ?t=1626520
Google this forum...
Google...


DIY Subaru Parts, Procedures, Diagnostics & FSM Info
Click the link to go to the DIY Subaru Parts, Procedures, Diagnostics & FSM Info page.

Maintainence:
Get your Factory Service Manual (FSM) this is just one source:
http://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=5 ... &hilit=Fsm

Consider whether you want a best-case scenario, or worst case scenario as regards the state of your car or something in between.
Regardless of what tune you are getting, the car will be driven harder than you might ever do in normality, thus:
Scheduled service. Meaning fully roadworthy in all aspects.
Fluids check.
Oilchange: considered sub 5K oil change intervals? Cant hurt really.

UEC (Upper engine Cleaner) method/procedure:
How to: seafoam/upper engine cleaner before oilchange
For NA:
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=14029&p=189894&hilit=+engine+cleaner
Hoses check: most of the important ones are visible in the engine bay with the cover still on: no excuses.
The cover comes off very easily, so get it off and take a peek.
I went for a week or two till I spotted one. It was this one that had come off...
If you have a strong suspicion of loose hose/induction piping, there's:
For vacuum leaks e.g. inlet piping, google the "aerosol spray in the engine bay whilst idling" test.
See post 8 for the specific method:
http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopi ... 26b#p67929
For positive pressure leaks a spray bottle of diluted dishwasher liquid is great for checking the BOV area, and the exhaust prior to it getting up to temp.
Failing that do a smoke tester check: info on the Google.
Good fuel from your trusted, regularly used outlet.

Learning View from Tactrix. Get a member to help if no Tactrix (yet) Software link below...

When to make an LV?
An LV made immediately after a reset has no Learned Values and is not very useful, unless you want to confirm your ECU was actually reset.

After 30 minutes of gentle driving after an ECU reset and any time thereafter.
After 30 minutes or so is a good time to begin logging and maybe make a pull, as the ECU should have learned in that time.





Via this thread: viewtopic.php?f=56&t=18219&p=375413#p375413

MAF clean: be gentle! Read the DIYs! Provide a recent phone pic of your clean MAF for your tuner (I did)
How to clean your MAF: unplug it, remove the 2 Phillips head screws and wiggle the MAF from the velocity stack (MAF tube). Examine the MAF: see the dirt caking one side of the visible IAT sensor and the MAF wires in the tube? Gently spray these areas with MAF cleaner aerosol or similar... Let it dry and reassemble in reverse order: do not touch the MAF sensor wires at all! Let the pressurized cleaner do the work gently dissolving and washing away the gunk

Is that air filter clean, sealed... triple sealed?
A handy list of your mods for your tuner... So you don't forget that geegaw you put in months ago...
Better still send your tuner a link to your Member Profile, then they can see how you present and describe yourself and your car and your aims and wishes for it.

Work out what mods require a tune immediately, and what mods don't.
E.g. (TBC...)
Induction piping: yes - may run leaner as airflow is smoother.
Zorst: minor changes e.g just muffs or mid - maybe not immediately/major changes eg dump pipe - probably.
Fuel pump - no (subject to debate)
Injectors - yes.
Fuel lines - yes.
FPR - yes
Intercooler - probably not immediately
Turbo -yes.
BOV - probably not immediately
3port boost solenoid (EBCS) - yes.

Research the popular mods for your vehicle, make a plan based on reality and stick to known equipment, installers, formulas that work.
Trailblazing is expensive and can be frustrating! Most of all have a plan!

Check Engine Light: CEL what do I do?
Symptoms: power and or boost limited, cruise light and engine light on dash are flashing.
The mechanical fault has put the car into limp home mode due to an error being logged by the ECU via its sensors.
Depending on what model Subaru you have the CEL can be read on the dash info display, or it can be read with a mechanics OBDII scanner, a Tactrix or a BT or Wifi OBDII plug and appropriate app, keep a record of the code, Google it and depending on the severity of the issue, reset the ECU or take appropriate mechanical action to fix the ECU as releveant to the issue.

ECU Reset Info:
ECU resetting how to basic mode: remove the battery negative terminal. Pump the brake pedal until the brake lights are extinguished, so eg if the handbrake is on: no brake light on the dash or tail lights.
ECU resetting how to advanced mode:: use an OBDII adapter and app, eg Torque App or Tactrix with Learning View or RomRaider. This is preferable because one can check for any stored diagnostic codes.

ECU resetting when to: whenever you have made a mod that will affect the learnt parameters in your tune.
Examples: changed panel filter type, changed to heavier oil, changed OCV soilenoids, cleaned filthy MAF.
Some cars require an ECU reset after flashing a tune, you can check this by taking a learning view after reflashing.
No learnt parameters equals a reset ECU.

ECU resetting when NOT to: When you have a CEL and no method to read the code. Usually if you have a severe-issue CEL, the car will stay in its limp home mode. Some less severe CELs will reset themselves after a period of time.
If you have a CEL, check it ASAP with an OBDII adapter of some description or find a member or mechanic who can.

After an ECU reset: drive the car gently, off boost, with a mix of traffic and freeway if possible. the the concensus seems to be that 20-30 minutes is enough time for the relearning to become established.

Common vehicle specific issues that, if not addressed, may affect the success of your tune:

AVCS issues a power and economy limiter...

3.0 engine rattle

Monitoring:
Don't even start without:
Third party feedback from a trusted contact.
I just read this tip on another forum but I've been doing it since before getting tuned...
Now I have several trusted contacts who overlook goings on and help fill my knowledge gaps.

At minimum or for day to day use:
BtSsm allows monitoring, logging etc, but no ECUflash.
Here's my BtSsm setup.
Torque app via Android BT or iPhone Wifi OBDII adapter.
Monitor at least: boost in psi, AF1 afr, Ign tot timing, learned Ign timing.

Best:
Tactrix w/RomRaider, LearningView on PC.
AEM or LC-1 wideband.
Boost gauge
(VBG1 is apparently to be very accurate, especially on transient boost peaks)
No monitoring = no tune.

Logging:
Read the full story here: http://www.romraider.com/forum/topic5384.html
Warm the car up first...
A clean third gear pull please! WOT 2500rpm to the rev limiter, or 6500rpm (2.5T).
An airflow run: 15 minutes of mixed normal non-high boost driving city/freeway mix. No high boost OK?
The more concise your logs are, the less irrelevant crapola your tuner has to wade through.

Logging Parameters:
From Torqued Performance:
A/F Correction #1(%)
A/F Learning #1(%)
A/F Sensor #1(AFR)
Engine Load (g/rev)
Engine Speed
Feedback Knock Correction
Fine Learning Knock Correction
IAM
Ignition Total Timing
Injector Duty Cycle
Intake Air Temperature
Manifold Absolute Pressure (PSI)
Manifold Relative Pressure(corrected)(PSI)
Mass Airflow (g/s)
Mass Airflow Sensor Voltage
Throttle Opening Angle(%)
Vehicle Speed (mph)
Optional (but mandatory for health check):
VVT angles (L&R)

VVT specific parameters:
Engine Speed
Vehicle Speed (mph)
VVT angles (L&R)
OCV duty (L&R)
OCV current (L&R)

The Pull: This is really important!
Please do your pulls on a dyno or private road, but if that option is not available:
Get on Google maps and find the very longest freeway ramp in your area and the next longest nearest that and so on.
When? When the traffic is quiet of course, if things don't look or feel right, back off and move to the next ramp or go round again, or pick another time.
You need to get this right since your terminal speed will be in impounded car territory if caught red-lined...
Use your common sense.
Turn off the freeway and enter the next ramp or cross the bridge, wait at the lights at the return entrance ramp and if there's no oncoming traffic entering, go for it.
Chances are you can do your pull to C130Kph and slow the car to the limit before merging with the traffic, if any.
It's important to have a clear road, in front and behind too, as an event like a WDC CEL can be a reasonably startling thing.
Better yet, do this on a freeway with a 110Kph limit.
Find that freeway on-ramp, use the defogger switch or F1 on your PC keyboard or better yet get a friend to assist you.
If the laptop is on a seat, use the seat belt to keep it in place for safety, better yet, use the floor.
Take it easy, keep your eyes on the road!
It's not a drag race, just a log, of your car, in third gear, accelerating, WOT. Remember that.
Don't worry if you forget to stop the log, it will be obvious where and when you changed up or lifted.
If you're super good just edit the unneeded cells in XL, OpenOffice or Pages.

Communication:
Use status, request & feedback forms for email. Eg.
Status: where you are at, how is the tune feeling or performing.
Request: what is the requirement of the revision.
Recap: list of relevant mods to date.
Plans: pending mods that may require a revision.

Be concise, relevant, on point and brief!
Do not be all "should I, could I, I wanna, I'm gunna, I plan to, I wish???"... or the classic "my cousin's chicken shop burned down...!".

Carefully manage your communication with your tuner!
(the better the tuner, the more customers they will have)
Keep them informed of what you've done (mods and maintenance wise), what you want, what you are planning and what results you are experiencing as regards your tune, for better service.

Lastly be patient, it's in the tuners interest to provide a safe tune, they are on your side!
You are messing with the brain of your car, hopefully for the better.
You are making changes to a cybernetic interface, please give your car and yourself time to adjust to the changes being made.
Above all be aware!

Options for tunes:

Dyno plus road tuning: this is the most expensive and perhaps the best approach.
Preferably you'll choose a local tuner, but members have traveled interstate to get this done, with varying degrees of success.
Pros: Your tuner is also a mechanic, will check/fix/upgrade your cars mechanical state, do the tune in the controlled environment of the dyno, with further optimizations on the road, or vice versa. It doesn't need tweaking because everything is sorted, you're done modding for now and will concentrate on your aero etc.
Cons: You just spent tons on a second rate tune because the tuner is not that good despite what they told you.
You traveled miles for upgrades and tune only to discover a surprise issue that hinders your tune.
Dyno tuning:
Pros: See above
Cons: Less real world based results, so most tuners will offer the option of tweaking the tune on the road.

Road/E-tuning: can be affordable, once again best if local to tuner, usually less time available to check car for mechanical issues. Some tuners will provide revisions via logging/email.
Pros: You get to meet your tuner, they experience your car in person. You discuss your aims and make requests to suit your taste.
In this instance you might want to book some more of their time to firstly log the car with a view to sussing out any preexisting issues (see above) or take care of that comprehensively before getting tuned. You'll want to log both city and cruise driving.
After the tune is applied, take a little time to actually experience some normal driving to see if those DBW setting really suit you, and in all modes.
Get an LV & logs at the end of the session, at least to show your tuning mentor.
Cons: Since you don't need to have any experience or knowledge to do this, you are totally at the mercy of your tuner, at least until you get someone to overlook their work.
There is the chance (as with any tune) that they give you their tune, not the one you requested, and you accept their word that its what you wanted and asked for, because they know what they're doing, right? The tune turned out to be full of features you didn't want or need, that's if you knew about them in the first place.

E-tuning:
Pros: Can be very affordable. International pool of tuning talent. You need to know what you are doing to engage.
Cons: Best for experienced owners with mechanically sorted cars. See cons above.
You'll need a full understanding of the required open source software, so you may need an experienced friend locally to help you out.

Re-flashing:
The key here is to not switch off the ignition at any time during the re-flash, or you will be getting your ECU unbricked, most likely by Chiptorque.
Switch off your lights, HU, HVAC and any accessories to conserve power.
If your battery goes flat during the procedure, leave everything in place, connect jumper leads or charger to your battery and proceed.
Make sure you have a known good ROM in your ROM folder. Bad ROMs can and do happen...

Again: do not switch off the ignition at any time during the re-flash.
Current ECU / ECM Unbricking / un bricking / un brick /un-bricking / un-brick / recovery / reflashing / service /services / unlock ecutek ecus and recover info / ecu tek
http://www.entra.com.au/entra-racing-ecu-recovery/
It happened to me, Chiptorque were great: customer service was simply impeccable...
I'm not sure how, but I managed to successfully test write a bad ROM, which failed to actually write, panic took hold of me and I guess I keyed off.
Total cost $220: Chiptorque reflash, $105: 2x 500g Platinum Express Post envelopes each insured to $2600...
Chiptorque reflash on Thursdays and Fridays, I sent the parcel containing the order form ECU and return envelope on Wednesday AM and received the unbricked ECU on Friday at 1PM.

Avoiding bricking your ECU:
Invest in:
A maintenance battery charger, have it attached to your battery during flashing.
Jaycar have a decent Cytec clone, or just get the real deal.
Since the car doesnt need to be running during flashing, this is the best way to keep your ECU and laptop powered up.
Its probably a good idea to disconnect once done though.

A dedicated ECU flashing laptop.
I'm preparing an eeePC for the job that runs from the 12V socket.
Since its just for flashing and logging, its a stripped back, optimized install with basic security and little connectivity.
Make sure the software and driver package is correct and without conflict.
Keep Java updated, the installed versions can be managed efficiently with Revouninstaller Free.

This is my XP current config, which is stable and works consistently. (thanks Bruce!) Updated 151114

These software versions...
Confirm what's best for your OS etc. here:
http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/showpo ... ostcount=4

Learning View V1.0 RC3
RomRaider Latest Version, Defs etc...
RomRaider 0.5.6 RC6
ecuflash_1443721_win


Device manager view, note the Tactrix has an mSD card in the slot.


Please share the benefit of your experience for us all!
Thanks especially to my esteemed fellow forum members for your continued assistance!

[bigBADbenny]

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[bigBADbenny]

just made an update about parts usage, equivalent part numbers and everything I know about the wonderful world of self serve wreckers