club.liberty.asn.au

Hey everyone, this is my first post, apologies in advance if it's in the wrong place.

I've been lurking these forums for a while as i shopped for a car. Just yesterday i purchased a 2004 Liberty GT.

This morning I started the car (to marvel at its greatness) when i noticed a swishing water sound behind the dash area. The sound repeats when the engine the engine is revved. I did some research and there's a fair bit online talking about coolant and air being in the cooling system.
I've also heard some ramblings that it could indicate, or lead to HG failure.

So I've refrained from driving the car (as much as I'd like to) and had a look at the user manual and the engine bay. Upon checking the coolant it was marginally below the "cold low" level. But more interesting is that the cap for the coolant doesn't stay on, it's kind of just sitting on top and won't tighten. I have a feeling it may even be from a different car.

So I think my next step (unless suggested otherwise) is to replace the coolant and 'burp' the system. Locating a working cap would be ideal too.

What coolant should I use, and is there any specific method to burping a subaru? Has anyone had similar experiences, or has a different suggestion as to what could be causing the sound? Some sources online suggest something related to air conditioning.
Thanks.

Describe water swishing??
Is it a cyclic "Swooshing" noise that repeats? Or is it a constant gurgling sound?

It sort of sounds like water is falling, it's easy to hear when you start the car, then it makes small sounds at idle. When revving the sound is easier to hear, as if you're squeezing a water bottle and making it flow faster.

EDIT: more of a trickling sound

It is hard to advise as we are not hearing the sounds you hear, so "Good Luck"

Your vehicle's air conditioning system will make a waterfall "wooshing" sound if the refrigerant charge is getting on the low side.
The sound will be like a woosh and then like water running and will commence a few seconds after the compressor clutch engages and may run for 15 odd seconds.
If the sound is coincident with the compressor clutch, then this may be a suspect.

Simple, run you vehicle with the A/C OFF.
If your issue stops then ?

If your issue remains, then this may be eliminated and you may move on.
Again, good luck!

Hope its of some use, i had the same problem in my Post face gen 4 2.5i wagon,
burped the system, no more gurgling or swishing noises



This procedure takes about 20 minutes and can keep you from making a simple thing complicated. This part is called a no-spill funnel and eliminates the need for burping when you follow the right fill procedures. Any tech worth his salt will tell you to use one. Thousands of Subarus needlessly overheat because the internet worshipping owner made a simple thing complicated.

With the engine cold...

1.) Insert the no spill funnel into the radiator cap opening, NOT THE RESERVOIR (Insert User-Stupidity clause here).

2.) Fill your coolant system with 50/50 water/coolant up to the BOTTOM of the no spill funnel.

3.) Turn your engine on and let it warm up.

4.) You'll see the coolant start to rise in a few minutes to the point where it almost overflows, but it shouldn't (much, if at all).

5.) The coolant level drops when the thermostat opens (YES IT IS HOT. Repeat user-stupidity clause here.)

6.) Pour in a little more coolant after the level drops, again to the bottom of the no-spill funnel. You now have coolant circulating in the motor AND the radiator. That doesn't happen until the coolant level rises and falls in the no spill funnel.

7.) Burp the upper rad hose a bit and give the car some throttle. This speeds up the water pump impeller a bit and chases out the last of the bubbles. You may have to do this a couple of times. Don't get impatient and cap it with little bubbles. Wait a bit while the car runs and they'll all dissipate.

8.) When you see the coolant churning and not bubbling, remove the no-spill funnel and put on your radiator cap. You might spill an ounce or two on the ground when this is done correctly.

*******DO NOT TURN THE CAR OFF BEFORE FINISHING THIS PROCEDURE. YOU WILL GET SCALDED!!!!********

^

Air in the cooling system, common problem.

In all cases raise the front of the car with ramps or stands.
Heater running on full hot.
If turbo put the funnel in the turbo coolant tank reservoir filler, it's higher than the rad.

Here's another approach to radiator cooling system flushing, burping, bleed, bleeding m I found on a BMW site, I'll be trying this method next time
http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=58368

I had a similar problem with my old BP Liberty. The SF Forestor comes with a bleed valve installed for just this issue. It's a 5 min job to cut a heater hose and install this in a high point. The part itself is about $20 and you should be able to get it at any Subie dealer or workshop.