REAR CAMBER

[riddy_95]

Okay guys,

So I recently upgraded to STi pink springs which dropped about 15mm iirc. I also upgraded to Enkei Rso5RR's 18 x 9 with 235's so its got very little stretch.

I've read this thread but didn't make too much sense to me as I'm new to cambering.

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=31330&p=418718&hilit=camber#p418718

I've noticed that I've already got abit of camber just by going sti springs. I want a little bit more camber. Nothing crazy, just a touch of camber.

Can I adjust this on oem camber bolts or do I have to purchase some sort of kit?

Do i have to buy camber Bolts and camber arms to do this?

Thanks,

Ridvan

[bigBADbenny]

Depending on how low you are the WL eccentric bushes for the rear upper arm should be enough.
If you're really low you may run out of toe which is where the WL kta124 kit would help.

[BillyCorgi]

his also might cover your question
viewtopic.php?f=19&t=14750

This covers the installation of the Whiteline kit
http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.p ... fb2b5&

[andy_mac]

Truhart and Hardrace also make upper camber arms that'll give more adjustment than the offset bushings give. Just don't get the toe adjustability you get from replacing both the lower arms like the whiteline kit does.

[riddy_95]

Ben,

I have just bought the KCA399 kit from MRT. Seems like an option for abit of camber without going over budget and looking too cambered. So thank you for your advice on that.

Peter,

I have also had a look at that legacygt thread, seems like a bit of a bugger to get that old bushes out aye?

Thanks for the helpful information.

Andy, Thank you for the alternatives however they are abit pricey and overkill for what I plan to do with my car lol.
Can't afford to chew tyres at this stage

[andy_mac]

Sweet as, does your car have aluminium trailing arms and upper arms?

The old ones aren't too bad to get out, did mine the same way as that how to. Just used an oxy-acetylene welder to heat it up a bit which really helped breaking the bushes loose.

[bigBADbenny]

I have my old iron rear upper arms with the bushes already pushed out if you'd like a 30 minute install...
A pair of 17mm iirc ring spanners is handy to have

It's a ton easier to do this on ADM cars, US peeps have to contend with salted roads and rusted bolts.

I maxed mine out for -3 degrees or so to beat rub with 8.5 +35 on a wagon, but its harsh on tyres so I'll be dialling it back to -1 and rolling the guards even more, next tyre change and alignment

The general idea with more stock rim offset is to use them to fix the negative increase in static camber that comes from lowering...

[riddy_95]

Here are the results.

The good:
Cheap alternative
Not tooooo hard to install

The bad:
The wheel shop won't align the damn camber because apparently it's too hard to get to the bushings
I'm stuck with uneven camber and +1mm of toe on both the rear wheels. Left maxed out so he pulled the right to +1mm to balance it out.

20151207_163734_resized.jpg (62.18 KiB) Viewed 5044 times

20151128_173321_resized.jpg (196.72 KiB) Viewed 5044 times

[bigBADbenny]

Hardly, just pull your wheel off, loosen the nut on the eccentric bolt and roll the bolt with vice grips, if using eg an allen key in the holes won't suffice.

But you'll probably run out of toe in to help save your rear tyres from camber wear.
Anyhow I'm going through the same thing atm, my local tyre shop is also intolerant of non standard alignments so I'm doing the basics myself using the string alignment technique.

In the process I discovered that the forward eccentric washers on the rear toe adjusters get out of sync with the rear fixed washers on the bolts.
Removing them and peening the holes flat and using lots of grease on reinstallation helps.
Those washers are an inferference fit on the bolt and if the forward washer slips, making the adjustment fails as the bolt isn't turning as it should, eg it twists in its slot.

AVO rear braces seem to exacerbate the possibility of this happening so I removed the rear rear braces till its sorted alignment-wise.
I'm not putting new tyres on till I'm happy, which means string alignments, then getting it checked on the laser alignment rig and repeat.

Once I do get new tyres I'll use my verniers on a regular basis to keep an eye on tyre wear and make appropriate adjustments to the alignment.
I'm yet to adjust the Perrin rear camber arms but the strategy may be to use them to adjust my rear track slightly to give back a range of toe adjustment, or just get the KTA124 kit

What's the exact spec of your Enkeis?
My advice is to run near stock camber using the WL bolts, roll the guards if required, and hope your range of toe is enough to keep the tyres happy...

[bigBADbenny]

18x9 +40 is the new 18x8.5 +35

[riddy_95]

Hardly, just pull your wheel off, loosen the nut on the eccentric bolt and roll the bolt with vice grips, if using eg an allen key in the holes won't suffice.

But you'll probably run out of toe in to help save your rear tyres from camber wear.
Anyhow I'm going through the same thing atm, my local tyre shop is also intolerant of non standard alignments so I'm doing the basics myself using the string alignment technique.

In the process I discovered that the forward eccentric washers on the rear toe adjusters get out of sync with the rear fixed washers on the bolts.
Removing them and peening the holes flat and using lots of grease on reinstallation helps.
Those washers are an inferference fit on the bolt and if the forward washer slips, making the adjustment fails as the bolt isn't turning as it should, eg it twists in its slot.

AVO rear braces seem to exacerbate the possibility of this happening so I removed the rear rear braces till its sorted alignment-wise.
I'm not putting new tyres on till I'm happy, which means string alignments, then getting it checked on the laser alignment rig and repeat.

Once I do get new tyres I'll use my verniers on a regular basis to keep an eye on tyre wear and make appropriate adjustments to the alignment.
I'm yet to adjust the Perrin rear camber arms but the strategy may be to use them to adjust my rear track slightly to give back a range of toe adjustment, or just get the KTA124 kit

What's the exact spec of your Enkeis?
My advice is to run near stock camber using the WL bolts, roll the guards if required, and hope your range of toe is enough to keep the tyres happy...

hahahaha the bolts were not too bad after all only costs like $80.

I've got 18 x 9 enkei rs05rr's rapped in nexen 235's. Massive upgrade from the original 7.5s but I'm disappointed about the toe.

Have a look at what my front wheel's threw at me today.

20151207_163801_resized.jpg (63.82 KiB) Viewed 5037 times

Can't believe i'm running positive on front left. Must be due to the high k's on the clock..

[bigBADbenny]

Well front camber with stock struts is adjusted at the hub knuckle to strut bolts.
If you get WL camber caster tops you'll have a chance to bring your scrub radius back to neutral or negative.
A full laser alignment should give you an idea if not using a comparator to check stock vs mod profile and poke

image.png (121.04 KiB) Viewed 5034 times

Here's a rough approximation of stock vs your new setup, IMHO running the top mount closer to the center of the car, regardless of your final camber (eg adjusted at the hub) will bring the scrub radius a little closer to neutral.

[andy_mac]

Had the same problem with my allignment guy. They weren't interested in setting up their allignment equipment on the wheel just to pull it back off 2 mins later to get the wheel off.
It can be done with the wheels on by the way. Just a real prick and need the correct sized vice grips to fit. Managed to get under it myself and adjust it since they were being difficult.

Ended up actually buying a set of the Truhart upper arms last night brand new from a guy who'd planned on going wide but never got around to it so got a bit of a bargain there.

[riddy_95]

Nice buy! I'm biting my nails to stop spending as I am a full time uni student lol. Can't afford camber arms or anything fancy. I just checked my clearance betweem the rear rims and the diagonal control arm thingy as well as the strut/spring and it's a hell of a tight fit. Couldn't have gone up to 9.5's without spacers

Yeah that front wheel is a real prick but I'm leaving it as it is because i doubt it will cause any concern at all.

Holy shit that's lot's of poke. I also noticed that my cars getting a hell of a lot dirtier due to poke.

[bigBADbenny]

Truhart rear upper arms?
Had a look couldn't see them on the site.
Do you mean the rear lateral camber arms?
Eg the shorter of the 2 rear lateral arms...

I took my rims off to redo my rear camber.
Eg measured by laser, went home, put it on stands, bungeed my iPhone to the brake disc bell with an inclinometer app running, dialed up another +0.5' or so either side.

I'll try it with the wheels-on trick at the local garage with the steam powered alignment rig.
This is me redoing my toe shortly after doing the camber

image.jpeg (91.53 KiB) Viewed 4944 times

You literally bump the car, belt the tyre (gently lol) with a mallet, then ram the gauge ends into the pockets at the edge of the rim, and read off the toe on the protractor gauge, under a glass lens.
Since this is the rear of the car, backed into the alignment rig, neg toe is read as positive toe and vice versa
Camber is done by flipping the whole device 90'.

There's a head on each side too, of course.
Currently I'm at -1mm total rear toe and RL 1.75' RR 1.5' camber, my aim being to get to less than 1' each side.
I want to save my new tyres and will roll the guards even more if required.

But first I may go up 5mm in back: the aim being 5up plus luggage no worries