club.liberty.asn.au

just thought i'd post this pic of the endlink of someone's car i know.

city driving by a woman.

this is a noob question, but what happens when its broken, still drivable? or need immediate replacement.. etc what are the usual causes for them to break etc.

drivable, just don't be taking corners hard.

as the pic shows, it's a plastic bit pressed into the metal housing.

breaks due to fatigue or just can't handle the load.

just have a check when you guys get a chance.

Always best to build in a quick safe break(weak) point in. Otherwise you'd end up with much more costly and damaging breaks - See Items like broken RSB mounts for example...

Driveable, but handling will be adversely affected - it's like disconnecting your swaybar. You'll get more body roll and more understeer, if it's the rear link that's gone - more oversteer if it's the front.

Gir wrote:Always best to build in a quick safe break(weak) point in. Otherwise you'd end up with much more costly and damaging breaks - See Items like broken RSB mounts for example...

Orrrrrrr you could get uprated sway bar mounts

IF avo actually remembers taht they need to order you one and that IF they order the correct one.

:P:P

so.... replace with genuine items every 5 years? what wbout alloy links? do they mean having to upgrade mounting points? someone (fatcat? over on fozliberty) was whinging about noisey replacement links - that weren't even that old and wore out.. what's the best ones for longevity?
\
perrin? noltec?


OP what car was that and doesn't it look quite rusty anyway? 1990 and done 485,000 k's?

edit: looks like a gen 3, rx or heritage?

AVO ones are alloy and still retain a spherical bearing, so they're not that noisy.

Anything 'solid' will be noisy.

tangcla wrote:AVO ones are alloy and still retain a spherical bearing, so they're not that noisy.

Anything 'solid' will be noisy.

Not noisy as in nvh, noisy as in f*cked - need replacing.

guys it is just me but does this car have a rust issue?

Interesting to know how the old the car is to be that condition

the one like AVO and perrin moke more noise, and there have been cases where the actual bearing shatters.

which is why the ones with the polyutherine (i can't spell...) is a good middle ground between strength, NVH and lifespan.


older car, so not surprsing that it has some surface rust.

The polyurethane ones would be noisier as they are solid mounts.
AVO ones don't induce NVH. They are similar to the OEM ones, but made in metal, and have a stiffer bushing.

sorry, but how can metal (steel in this case) possibly transfer less vibration than urethane? you invent new law of physics!!! w00t!!!

solid busings





not solid bushes.

What are those in the second pic? Are they the ones to get?? Do oem ones have an issue if replaced within some years?

Cheers OL