Pic of Broken endlink

by **overl0ad** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 9:37 pm

just thought i'd post this pic of the endlink of someone's car i know.

city driving by a woman.

by **EJ25** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 9:44 pm

this is a noob question, but what happens when its broken, still drivable? or need immediate replacement.. etc what are the usual causes for them to break etc.

by **overl0ad** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 9:51 pm

drivable, just don't be taking corners hard.

as the pic shows, it's a plastic bit pressed into the metal housing.

breaks due to fatigue or just can't handle the load.

just have a check when you guys get a chance.

by **Gir** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 10:20 pm

Always best to build in a quick safe break(weak) point in. Otherwise you'd end up with much more costly and damaging breaks - See Items like broken RSB mounts for example...

by **tangcla** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 10:22 pm

Driveable, but handling will be adversely affected - it's like disconnecting your swaybar. You'll get more body roll and more understeer, if it's the rear link that's gone - more oversteer if it's the front.

by **tangcla** » Wed Apr 30, 2008 10:23 pm

Gir wrote:Always best to build in a quick safe break(weak) point in. Otherwise you'd end up with much more costly and damaging breaks - See Items like broken RSB mounts for example...

Orrrrrrr you could get uprated sway bar mounts

by **overl0ad** » Thu May 01, 2008 7:45 am

IF avo actually remembers taht they need to order you one and that IF they order the correct one.

:P:P

by **sooobi** » Thu May 01, 2008 8:15 am

so.... replace with genuine items every 5 years? what wbout alloy links? do they mean having to upgrade mounting points? someone (fatcat? over on fozliberty) was whinging about noisey replacement links - that weren't even that old and wore out.. what's the best ones for longevity?
\
perrin? noltec?

OP what car was that and doesn't it look quite rusty anyway? 1990 and done 485,000 k's?

edit: looks like a gen 3, rx or heritage?

by **tangcla** » Thu May 01, 2008 8:19 am

AVO ones are alloy and still retain a spherical bearing, so they're not that noisy.

Anything 'solid' will be noisy.

by **sooobi** » Thu May 01, 2008 8:20 am

tangcla wrote:AVO ones are alloy and still retain a spherical bearing, so they're not that noisy.

Anything 'solid' will be noisy.

Not noisy as in nvh, noisy as in f*cked - need replacing.

by **senator** » Thu May 01, 2008 10:05 am

guys it is just me but does this car have a rust issue?

Interesting to know how the old the car is to be that condition

by **overl0ad** » Thu May 01, 2008 10:19 am

the one like AVO and perrin moke more noise, and there have been cases where the actual bearing shatters.

which is why the ones with the polyutherine (i can't spell...) is a good middle ground between strength, NVH and lifespan.

older car, so not surprsing that it has some surface rust.

by **tangcla** » Thu May 01, 2008 10:27 am

The polyurethane ones would be noisier as they are solid mounts.
AVO ones don't induce NVH. They are similar to the OEM ones, but made in metal, and have a stiffer bushing.

by **overl0ad** » Thu May 01, 2008 12:01 pm

sorry, but how can metal (steel in this case) possibly transfer less vibration than urethane? you invent new law of physics!!! w00t!!!

solid busings

not solid bushes.

by **sooobi** » Thu May 01, 2008 1:03 pm

What are those in the second pic? Are they the ones to get?? Do oem ones have an issue if replaced within some years?

Cheers OL

Pic of Broken endlink

Pic of Broken endlink

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