club.liberty.asn.au

zero_cool wrote:Fuel pumps and me.
Alrighty kidlets, I had a quick search around the forums for a walk through with changing fuel pumps on my Gen4 sedan but my forum master search skills were not so good (always hated PBPBB search)

Can someone offer a quick rundown on the removal of the pump?

In the coming weeks I'm going to be replacing the pump with a DW65C in prep for a re-tune of the H6

A link if there is an existing walk through would be fantastic.

I'm assuming the tanks location is under the back seat?

Remove the baffle on the interior,
remove 2 fuel lines both feed and return,
crack the seal on top of the tank and pull out the entire pump assembly, remove from bracket and refit new pump? being careful not to bend the fuel level sender unit (if it is on the cradle?)

Am I close?

Give me a 90's Laser / Mazda and I could tell you exactly where each component goes / is
but on the scoobys I'm clueless since i've only owned it for less than 2 months.

Thanks in advance

KiDo_Tuning wrote:

zero_cool wrote:Fuel pumps and me.
Alrighty kidlets, I had a quick search around the forums for a walk through with changing fuel pumps on my Gen4 sedan but my forum master search skills were not so good (always hated PBPBB search)

Can someone offer a quick rundown on the removal of the pump?

In the coming weeks I'm going to be replacing the pump with a DW65C in prep for a re-tune of the H6

A link if there is an existing walk through would be fantastic.

I'm assuming the tanks location is under the back seat?

Remove the baffle on the interior,
remove 2 fuel lines both feed and return,
crack the seal on top of the tank and pull out the entire pump assembly, remove from bracket and refit new pump? being careful not to bend the fuel level sender unit (if it is on the cradle?)

Am I close?

Give me a 90's Laser / Mazda and I could tell you exactly where each component goes / is
but on the scoobys I'm clueless since i've only owned it for less than 2 months.

Thanks in advance

Correct on under the rear seat.

Remove the rear seat, it lifts up quite easily once the front clips are freed up(push front of seat towards rear of car to free them)
Remove Fuel Tank Cover with four 10mm bolts
Disconnect the wiring loom
Start car which will remove fuel rail pressure from fuel lines

Undo 3 fuel lines(Pressure, return and ancillary side hose
Remove 8 bolts holding down tank cover
Lift up the unit and twist it to get the fuel level float out

Enjoy the absolute 'pleasure' of removing the old pump from the cradle/filter assembly, there is 2 plastic clips holding stock pump in place. Look at the DW65c and you will see their location
ENSURE YOU HAVE THE BLACK O RING IN PLACE AT TOP OF FUEL PUMP BODY WHEN REFITTING FUEL PUMP TO THE CRADLE!!!!!!

Out6ack wrote:This was bugging me so I removed the DW65 tonight to triple check everything. I also had my laptop handy to display a bloody good downloaded workshop manual that I'd recently bought online -opened at the fuel pump page.
I noticed something within this manual's guide that I hadn't seen mentioned in either Club Lib's or NASIOC's walk through on the subject -both of which I solely referred to for my guidance during initial install.

The 4 o-rings are 2 different sizes (2X7mm + 2X8mm internal diameter) and MUST be installed to their correct locations or you might suffer pressure retention issues ..like I did.

I'm not to proud to raise my hand and say 'I Phukked Up!' in this instance.

I had overlooked the 1mm diameter difference between these o-rings and didn't have them located in their correct position. The walkthroughs I mentioned were very helpful and excellent guidance, but please be aware for future reference that this critical o-ring diameter and placement location is not mentioned in either guide.

So here tis..

Place a 7mm ring on the BLACK connector.
Place an 8mm ring on the WHITE connector.

image.jpg (64.99 KiB) Viewed 12080 times

Place an 8mm ring on the DW65c pump. (This is where you can put the additional 2nd ring.)
Align the 4 slots on the pump spacer sleeve with the 4 ribs within the basket. (Well, I did anyway..)

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Place 7mm ring on lower BLACK connector that feeds to the base of the basket.

image.jpg (58.39 KiB) Viewed 12080 times

Done.

And umm yeah, priming problem tested ...and confirmed SOLVED.
Starts up quickly whether primed or not.

**I can only speak of my own findings, but strongly suggest to anyone having priming/starting/pressure issues to quickly check the correct placement of these o-rings.**

I'll be the one in the corner with a Dunce hat on..


Jay.

dr20t wrote:The hardest part is prying the top part of the cradle from the bottom bucket, due to the five clips holding it in which need to be simultaneously depressed to allow it to come free.

The rest is easy

kiwigene wrote:For you guys that have done the fuel pump/filter change, what grease did you use on the o-rings?

I assume it has to be fuel and ethanol resistant.

I see from the NASIOC thread there is something called Pro Circuit Seal and O-ring Grease PC-03 which came with the DW65c.
But my replacement fuel pump didn't come with any grease.

Is there a type/brand of grease you can get from SuperCheap/Repco which is equivalent?