Aircon

[rada0469]

Hi folks, hope this is the right section to ask about this, apologies if it isn't. I have recently purchased a 07Lib GT and the aircon seems much colder on the passenger side than drivers despite being set to same temp. Any ideas? The air isn't as cold as I would like even on the coldest setting, but not having owned a vehicle like this before I have nothing to compare it to. Any advice appreciated.

[bigBADbenny]

I'm no expert either but maybe get it regassed for starters...
Then see if both sides are capable of same temp.
I'm guessing you've spotted the dual temp controls...?
Are you referring to all vents or just the fronts?

[chris12]

Noticing the same thing in my 07 GT which I just purchased too.

Even with just the fan on at 18 degrees it can feel warm. It was around 30 in Melbourne the other day, had it on 18, AC, AUTO and it didnt feel cold enough (felt warm). Compared to my old Lib anyway, it didnt feel very cold where the AC was excellent. Might need regassing? Not sure.

@BBB I believe the GT doesnt get vents at the rear of the car either, for what its worth.

[bigBADbenny]

Sounds like gassing is the fix then...

Due to the design of the heater, they will blow warm when the aircon is off too.
Meaning if you're cruisn in hot weather w/windows and roof open you may need aircon to keep your feet from cooking!

MY07 ( '06, April — '07, June ) has rear aircon vents under the front seats.
MY08+ ( '07, April — ) has rear aircon vents in the rear of the center console where the MY07 has fold out cup holders.

https://www.google.com.au/#q=site:forum ... aircon+gas

HVAC self test:
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=414&start=0
https://www.google.com/search?q=AUTO+an ... 3Aofficial

I'll attempt to locate it in the factory service manual.

[bigBADbenny]

2008 Legacy Outback HVAC SYSTEM (AUTO A/C) (DIAGNOSTICS) PDF attached.
This in an extraction from the full HVAC section.
Near enough as I could get.
I dont have access to the 2007 manual right now but ill dig it up on the w/e

[rada0469]

Gents, I had given up on this thread, Chris and Benny awesome to get your replies! Benny you think its likely to need regassing? Is that usual with 50k on the clock? Perth weather is so damn hot, but its such that I cannot drive the car when outside temps are above 32. Sad to say I drive my old commonwhore whose AC seems to be functioning far better despite it being 12 years old. Yes I noted the dual zone, but the drivers side is pretty much 8-10 degrees hotter than what it says on the dial. I don't suppose a bigger/upgraded radiator would help?

[bigBADbenny]

Get it regassed for sure!

[chris12]

Yep, get it regassed. After getting mine regassed its as you would expect.

Chances are you might have a leak of some sort, but they'll be able to tell you that whilst being regassed. Mine didn't have a leak though, so I was happy.

[bigBADbenny]

Chris where did you get it regassed?

[chris12]

W & W Auto Electrical in Moorabbin.

[ICE_BM]

Hijacking this old thread, seems to be a good place to follow-on from:
(mine MY08 3RB)
Does anyone know if the diagnostic modes can show the evaporator coil temperature, or some other way to see this via OBD2?
Agree with the above posts (and many other refs) that the drivers side vents run hotter than the passenger side (I have dual zone system).
I have done the "maintenance" on the blend door actuators, which can be confused for the water gurgling noise. The driver side actuator is quite painful to access.
The gurgling noise is the actuator "searching" for position, and while it is behaving like this the AC does not work too well.
While watching the actuators work after refitting, I observed that the only way to get the blend door to go to fully cold position is to set the temp control to 18 (minimum), as soon as you go 18.5 the actuator moves off the end stop, which mixes ion some warm air.
Note that there is only one evaporator coil (the source of coldness), so my dumbed-down analysis is that if the passenger side is colder, then hot air is leaking past some flap that should be fully closed.

Now, my system might actually need regassing, but if I can read the evap coil temperature I will have a good idea if that part of the system is good or below par.
Don't need to spend money on AC service if the problem is actually the air mixing system inside the car.

Any tips or advice on this would be gratefully received, as it sounds like a pretty common problem.

PS: anyone without the rear seat air vents should not feel like they are missing out, I have them and they are without doubt the biggest waste of space, I can blow harder than those vents with my mouth... the pissy little tubes that run through the console are also picking up plenty of heat from the tunnel making them even less effective.

[Benny56]

Hi,
I have been investigating the same problem. My system is a single auto AC. Thankfully the mode actuator is only on the LH passenger side and I have observed it sometimes 'hunting' and making the percolator sound. The air mix actuator operates smoothly eventually if you go to like 28 deg and moves off the closed position but seems to return to the closed position OK. Can the mode actuator somehow affect the air mix? Can anyone confirm? I cannot see any external linkage from the mode actuator. Get really warm air through vents when AC switched off and AC struggles when switched on.
Can the internal air mix flap have sealing problems?

Any input is appreciated,
Benny56