club.liberty.asn.au

Fair enough. Funny thing is mine hasn't faded in and out since I posted I was having same problems. Would be good to fix it before it gets to bad.

Interesting. It does seem to be something, even in other models, that eventually goes.

So...its below 10'c this morning on the Sunny Coast, which is colder than normal for here. Jump in the Outback which was parked outside, and the LCD screen works. I just noticed it ticking away the fuel economy while I was sitting at the lights.

It'll be interesting this afternoon after sitting in the sun at work and getting some heat into it whether it still works. Generally points to a bad solder joint or similar. Good to know it isn't bad wiring or a completely dead unit. Its nice and bright, so not sure if this will relate to yours Mat04. Yours may have bad caps if its going dull. Toyota Soarers which have a complete LCD dash suffer from dullness due to bad caps. Replace a dozen or so and its like new.

I'll investigate more. Cheers.

Went out at lunch time to try it...kinda warm in the cabin, and it doesnt work anymore. Gave it a few love taps, and still nothing. Seems its the temp the effects it. Typical bad solder point somewhere. I'm more keen to pull it out now.

People say pull from the bottom; do I need any tools, or just get a hold of the vent surround and pull it off. Sure would hate to break it

m1keb1ggs wrote:People say pull from the bottom; do I need any tools, or just get a hold of the vent surround and pull it off. Sure would hate to break it

Pages 4090 and 4533 of the workshop manual. I've attached a quick cut & paste of those two pages.

Thats perfect mate. Thank you

..Come to think of it, I do have the workshop manual PDF from eBay around here somewhere, guess its in there

Hello, I try to fix that trip-computer. I foun two burned zener diodes - ZD1 and ZD2. Do anyone knows for which voltage are those two zeners?Can somebody measure the voltage ot kathodes ow those two zeners? Thanks in advance.

Usually just soldering the dry joints will do the trick.

I have a buddy in qld that has a test bench and can refurb these clocks, I’ll ask him

As above, my contact said to resolder/reflow it.

The specific details are in here:
https://www.google.com.au/search?biw=49 ... 1nwT9fOPRM

Actually, in this thread:
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=28658

I resoldered all SMD components,but not work. After that I start measure all active components transistors, diodes IC1 etc. I found IC1 is dead, TR3 - dead, ZD1 and ZD2 - dead. IC1 is a volgate detector, can work without IC2, TR3 is NPN transistor, I changed him.ZD1 is marked with A4, ZD2 is C2,but didn't found for which voltage are they.I need to know voltage to change them with proper zener diodes.

Sure, I have a spare working clock here, a 12V power supply and a multimeter.

Can you send a hi res pic of what items and how to test them?

There is a picture, where I marked two zener diodes - ZD1 and ZD2. cathodes are marked with black circle. The voltage need to measure between cathode of the zener and the ground ( pin,marked with 10 on the PCB at the right end of th PCB on that picture ). Thanks in advance!!!!!!!!

Gotcha! Back later

Got it at last, I brought the spare clock bare circuit board to the car, plugged it in and got these pics for you.

Thank you very much. It means that ZD1 is for 5,6 Volts and ZD2 is for 2,2 Volts.Thanks again!!!!