have all power window buttons auto

[Mr. Meanie]

I have purchased a DEI530T from eBay, but have not installed it yet.

I'm still deciding on which Autowindow unit to get. Not sure if I'll get the standard one, or the temperature control / venting one.

In any case, I won't be installing it for at least another month, as I'm away for work.

When I do, there will be lots of pics

[Mr. Meanie]

OK, I've finally installed the DEI530T, and it's working perfectly.
I now have auto up and down for driver and passenger windows

I did order, and pay for an Autowindow unit, unfortunately there was an error on their site and they never got the order...
Paypal refunded me the money and I emailed Autowindow asking what happened.

I then ordered a couple of PAC Audio TR7 units as described in this thread here ---> http://www.tundratalk.net/forums/tundra ... n-how.html
Just after I had ordered the new parts, Autowindow got back to me, saying they had fixed the error and asked if I would like to order again...

Anyway, here's how to take the door trim off: http://iagresearch.com.au/index.php?opt ... iew&gid=44

And here's what the inside of the door looks like:


I followed instructions found here : http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.p ... 62585.html

"Before you begin you will need the following:
15 foot lengths (more if you are doing two modules) of 14AWG Blue, 14AWG Green, 20AWG Brown, and 20AWG White. (you can use any colors, but these match the 530T module wires)
Heat shrink tubing
Solder gun/solder (Crimp connectors or wire nuts would also work)
Electrical tape
Wire tap to connect the battery line coming off the fuse panel (I forget the size)
Wire cutters & wire strippers
Appropriate tools to take apart the car

Here is what I did when installing a DEI 530T module:
Note: Subaru is 'Type A' in the 530T manual.

Disconnect the car battery.

Place the module under the dash and connect the three ground wires (H1/1, H1/5, & H1/6) together with an O-lug and fasten it down with a chassis bolt.

I tapped the battery line coming off the fuse panel for the always-on +12 volts needed for the 530T (H1/4). The +12 wire at the fuse panel is thick RED wire located near the bottom of the fuse panel.

Now you will need to remove the door panel and run the four wires listed above into the door (this is the hardest part).

Locate the wire harness that plugs into the window motor (Blue/Red, and Blue/Green) and cut both wires leaving room to attach your new ones.

Attach the BLUE wire to the Blue/Red wire and the GREEN wire to the Blue/Green wire on the motor side. Attach the BROWN wire to the Blue/Red wire and the WHITE to the Blue/Green wire on the switch side. (Repeat the above three steps for the passenger door)

Now attach your wires to the 530T module under the dash. The driver’s side is a direct color to color match (H1/3 – Blue, H1/2 – Green, H2/1 – Brown, and H2/2 – White. The passenger side wires are the same color but have a black stripe in them (H1/8 – Blue/Black, H1/7 – Green/Black, H2/6 – Brown/Black, and H2/7 – White/Black).

Put your door panels back together.

There will be three wires not connected to the 530T module. Two of the wires are used for the AutoWindow (H2/3 and H2/4). The third wire is not used (H2/5 – Gray)."

Here's a pic of the wires, the two that are separated are the ones to cut:


Now I just have to work out how to wire in the TR7 units...

[Brunsy3.0]

yeah nice

question: when you removed the door trims did you disconnect the power windows before you removed it or is there enough wiring to disconnect it afterwards?

are you happy with the auto windows thus far?

[Mr. Meanie]

I disconnected the plugs to power windows and the red light as I lifted the trim away.
It's quite light, so is very easy to do.

I'm happy with the "one touch" up and down for driver and passenger window so far.
The passenger window now works just like the driver window always did.

I haven't quite got the "auto" thing happening yet. I've wired in the TR7's, but it isn't working quite right.
When I press unlock twice (when doors are locked and windows up) the doors unlock and the windows roll down about 20mm.
The opposite happens when I hit lock twice.

Maybe the "pulse" out of the TR7 is not enough to trigger the DET to make the window go all the way?

[mynameisdaniel]

Could it be these TR7 things have a 'vent' function? Some units do, it just cracks the windows for you to let hot air out.

[Mr. Meanie]

No "vent" function as such. They actually have about 15 or so different programmable functions. I just have to work out which one to use.
In fact, I'm sure it would be of use to you in your project

[mynameisdaniel]

Just looked into it, could be a handy little unit thanks

If you get it to work I'll probably go this route too, seems a lot cheaper than the autowindow module. My understanding is the signal you send to the DET modules tells it whether to go auto or not. My thinking is the pulse might be too long, so it skips the auto feature and goes to manual, then when it thinks the button is released it stops the window.

Nice door sills by the way

[Mr. Meanie]

I actually think the Autowindow module would be cheaper. I had to but two TR7's plus shipping and it ended up costing almost $100..

Pulse too long hey? Could be. I'm using "feature 14" which is the pulse to pulse output.
I wonder if there is a way to make the pulse shorter???

If not, I suppose I could use the pulse to timed output. I'll just make the output last for the amount of time it takes to wind the windows up or down

[mynameisdaniel]

Two TR7s? Couldn't you just join the output of one TR7 to both the signal wires of your DET units? I'm guessing you have two DET units for all 4 windows?

Not sure about the adjustment but the unlatch feature might also be suitable as I'd imagine that only gives a quick pulse output... I'd be careful of the timed output in case the window was half way down, don't want to overburn the motors, or does it keep the original cut outs once already down?

I'd probably give installing one for the sunroof tilt a shot too!

[Mr. Meanie]

I've only got one DEI unit, connected to both front windows.

I'm pretty sure the DEI needs separate inputs for both up and down, hence using 2 TR7's.

[Hotwire]

I think there's certainly a safety issue here. No car manufacturer would want "auto up" on windows that children could play with.

Not true.
My Legnum VR4 has auto up/down on all 4 windows from the factory, i.e. 4 position switch like the drivers auto on the Libertys - and I love it!

[Rome_BRZ]

I think there's certainly a safety issue here. No car manufacturer would want "auto up" on windows that children could play with.

Not true.
My Legnum VR4 has auto up/down on all 4 windows from the factory, i.e. 4 position switch like the drivers auto on the Libertys - and I love it!

So does my dad's bmw

[Ric]

Must depend on how good the auto stop is if it finds an arm sticking out the window

[Rome_BRZ]

Must depend on how good the auto stop is if it finds an arm sticking out the window

Haha it has a safety mechanism, as soon as it feels pressure it goes back down

[s2za]

i wish they were actually more controllable.. its irritating trying to get the drivers one at the exact height where it can both cool your down and not be too windy in your face.

I know this is an old thread and fairly off topic but if u have the drivers window and the rear window open the same amount you're cooled but have no wind in your face. I have all windows open at all times and my hair doesn't get messed up