Another central remote locking issue

by **Mr Bagus** » Sun Jan 01, 2012 5:19 pm

My 8 year old 2.5i had the classic symptoms of the dreaded central remote locking syndrome. It worked only sometimes, with the drivers door lock the main problem. Before I could get to the motor in that door, the whole remote system stopped completely. I took apart the actuator and cleaned the housing area and worm drive, and flushed the motor out with degreaser as shown in the forums.

Re-assembled and still the same - nothing works. I checked with the previously working remote key as well, and tested both batteries - were new and reading fully charged.

Ordered a motor from ebay from U.S. Checked the fuse no. 8 in the main fuse box - fine.

What could be the problem that stops all the other door locks working? Where is the receiver for the key remote, and can they easily (cheaply) be replaced?

Thanks in advance! Happy New Year!

by **Ric** » Sun Jan 01, 2012 10:05 pm

I think the receiver is embedded in the BIU (body integrated unit), so it's not easilly replaceable.
What was the actual voltage you measured on the batteries? Was that with a button pressed?

Do the locks work ok using the manual lock/unlock switch inside the car? If yes, the motors are fine.

by **Mr Bagus** » Mon Jan 02, 2012 12:44 pm

Hi Ric,

Thanks for the help. Measured 3.2V remote key battery and 3.1V when press button. All door locks work except driver's door when manual lock switch used. The remote used to work with all locks except driver door, but now absolutely nothing - no hazard lights flash, or anything - no noise from near steering column when using remote - only when flicking manual lock switch.
Looks like it must the system that receives the signal and makes the motors work. Just found out in the workshop manual that there is a receiver for the remote behind the glovebox. Guess I will need to try and test it as don't want to touch the BIU itself if possible - I can imagine what I could mess up!

Will check when I get time and let everyone know.

If anyone has done this, please let me know.

Thanks!

by **champ** » Tue Jan 03, 2012 8:23 am

You mentioned all doors worked before, did you know for sure it worked our assumed it worked? Is it the factory-fitted central locking system or an after-market one? I'm asking because I know some systems only unlock the driver's door, and you'll need to press the remote again to unlock the other doors.

by **Mr Bagus** » Tue Jan 03, 2012 8:55 pm

Yeah,

All worked before with one press - factory remote locking. Now the whole thing is like dead - tried spare key with new battery with same results. Checked workshop manual and next step is to check if error code on BIU - will ask the mechanic to run an error check on it when the car next serviced. This will tell if BIU or the remote control receiver unit is faulty......will keep you all updated, meanwhile going retro and using the key for the door!

by **youngy69** » Thu Jan 12, 2012 9:17 pm

No offence but most generic readers wont pick up BIU faults,saying that even if you go to a dealer the ssm wont pick up rke faults.Try re programming the rke 1st.
Cheers

by **seanmau5** » Tue Jan 24, 2012 11:34 pm

I worked out the other day that if a door isn't closed properly the car won't lock or unlock at all (my dad's Berlina goes bonkers with the horn if a door is ajar while trying to lock, whereas the Subaru just does nothing).

Could it possibly be that one of the pressure switches in the door jambs is faulty that tells the computer that all doors are closed??

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

by **Ric** » Tue Jan 24, 2012 11:56 pm

The interior light would stay on if that was the case.

by **seanmau5** » Wed Jan 25, 2012 12:02 am

Ric wrote:The interior light would stay on if that was the case.

This is true.. :oops:

didn't even think of it!

by **Mr Bagus** » Sat Mar 03, 2012 4:36 pm

Well,

Had my car serviced by the guys at Forestville Subaru specialists - great job - cost less than dealer, and fixed small but vital things without asking and at minimal cost - leaking tyre with nail, scratched windscreen which can't be seen now, and.......new battery in remote key.

When I used the remote all except the drivers door worked perfectly, so no worries - I will just put in the new motor from Ebay with old armature as per the forum info.

When I tried, bright orange flash in the motor area of actuator, and then seemed only could unlock all doors except driver's. When door put back together, now all doors lock and unlock, BUT the driver door locks when the others unlock and the driver door unlocks when all the others lock! WTF!

Any ideas?

by **Ric** » Sat Mar 03, 2012 4:49 pm

Mr Bagus wrote:When I tried, bright orange flash in the motor area of actuator, and then seemed only could unlock all doors except driver's. When door put back together, now all doors lock and unlock, BUT the driver door locks when the others unlock and the driver door unlocks when all the others lock! WTF!

Sure sounds like the two wires going to the actuator have been swapped somewhere.

by **Mr Bagus** » Sat Mar 03, 2012 4:54 pm

Thanks Ric,

Just re-assembled the actuator and re-attached the wiring as it was - when I had the problem, I tried to reverse the plug to the actuator motor, but it wouldn't allow it. Do you reckon I should try and physically change the wires into that plug?

by **Ric** » Sat Mar 03, 2012 5:14 pm

Possibly a US motor is intended for the other side, and works the other way.
Yes, I'd expect you can just swap the wires to make it work correctly.

by **Mr Bagus** » Sat Mar 03, 2012 5:20 pm

Sweet,

Reckon you are right - will have to cut and solder but should be perfect after that.....will let everyone know how I go.

Thanks again!

by **Mr Bagus** » Sat Mar 03, 2012 6:02 pm

Cut and soldered opposite wires...now works as good as new! Finally!!