club.liberty.asn.au

owen1r wrote:Got my hands on a dual action polisher, would some 105 with multiple passes finished off with 205 be suitable. I have lots of swirls and some deeper scrathes but nothing too serious.

Also would touching up my paint chipa properly then sanding them back before polishing my car be a good idea?

Cheers

Depends on what dual action you got, what pads your using?

Just touch them up, don't wet sand them.

PC 7424XP.

I've been told 'hex logic' or something else, would anyone recommend any?

Hi all,

After reading through the 32 pages of this thread I went straight to Hamish via his FB page with some questions to scrub up my GTB. Rather than keep his info to myself, thought I would share with everyone, hope it's useful for some:

Q: I have the plastic rear bumper guard on the wagon that has been in the sun its whole life and faded out, plus I want to bring up the rest of the black plastics, what is the best product?
A: For the plastic the best long term product is cquartz dlux
Outcome: Haven't got there yet, but watched a youtube video of a guy who did his old car in the US, it looks amazing. I will be using on the headlights as well as per Hamish's suggestion (given I wont be Opticoating)

Q: My windows have never been looked after, covered in water marks (like your shower would be if rarely cleaned from new), engrained well and truly into the glass, what can I clean them up with?
A: Try steel wool 0000 and water for glass. If its etched badly you need cerium oxide. Glass polishing isn't fun.
Outcome: OMG this is NOT fun! Polished, steel wooled (I did both dry and wet, didnt seem to make much difference) and some of the windows STILL wont come up to clear. Cerium Oxide is next. It did however make a massive difference, and the initial polish probably could have been sufficient for some, but I still wasn't happy.

Q: What basic polishes to get my car back up to a newer looking standard (it's not got swirls, is just a bit dull)
A: Contact waxit for some advice, I like Scholl
Outcome: Waxit recommended Scholl S3 Gold as the cut with a white scholl pad, and S30+ with a black scholl pad for finish.

Q: Any other products I should get while buying online?
A: Perl for the tyres, and waffle weave drying towel.
Outcome: Got the Perl, haven't used it yet, and the waffle weave was a no brainer after every forum I have read made some form of recommendation.

I also asked waxit for some advice re hand vs DA polisher
A: While a DA will do a better job, the amount I intend on polishing after the initial clean up [like once a year, and the paint isn't that bad], they suggested I would be ok with the puck pads to do by hand.

So, now the fun part of cquartz, and then clay bar, cut, polish, and wax!
I will be doing:
Cquartz all plastics (as recommended to do first by guys waxit)
Clay bar (using Bowdens Fine Clay Bar and Bowdens Body Detail) (have used this on spots behind number plates, works fine)
S3 Gold with white puck pad
S30+ with black puck pad
Bowdens Own Auto Body Wax (two coats)

As you all know, this takes a while if you can't get to it in one day, so I will be back with some pics when I am finally done! Going to do sort of panel by panel as I get the time.

+1 on the scholl concepts products

would probably recommend using Poorboy's black hole glaze (or white diamond if you have a light coloured car) to fill up some of the finer scratches and swirls that you will probably miss out by using the hand pucks only. then use your favourite sealant to protect the glaze from fading away after a few washes. you could also try CarPro's Hydro2 which is a touch-free silica based sealant, very easy to apply and although i haven't completed my full trial, the initial results are good.

good luck, post some pics of the results

CAAD7 - Looks like you are in a very similar boat to me and my car, but I might be just a step or 2 ahead.
I had my plastic bumper guard treated with cquartz dlux and it came up looking brand new. This was only a couple weeks ago, so I can't really speak to the longevity of it, but by all accounts it's pretty well permanent.

I thought I had taken care of the water spots on my windows with a rotary polisher and the hardest buffing pad I've ever used, but about 3 months on now I'm seeing some slight marks in some lights. Hopefully they will clean up easier this time around, but I don't envy you with that job ahead of you

I have been using Menzerna polishes to get it tidied up (panel by panel like you are), but I've heard so many good reports on Scholl that I'll be switching over

I have never really used many glazes, but I had a detailer look over my car with a paint depth gauge, and a couple spots were a bit thin, so I've been following up after polishing with Prima Amigo (glaze) and then using a sealant (I'm using Nanolex) on top. I'm not sure how the glaze affects the sealants bond, but it's held up the last few weeks at least

Once the whole car is done (taking forever as I only get a couple free hours a week), I'd like to get a more permanent paint coating (opti-coat probably)

Nice post!

Hey all, is there a car shampoo/wash that is good in a bucket and good in a foam lance? At the moment im using Autoglym Bodywork Shampoo/Conditioner http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/autoglym/bodywork_shampoo_conditioner but have run out so i was going to put an order in for more and thought there might be something better.
Cheers

Tim_ wrote:Hey all, is there a car shampoo/wash that is good in a bucket and good in a foam lance? At the moment im using Autoglym Bodywork Shampoo/Conditioner http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/autoglym/bodywork_shampoo_conditioner but have run out so i was going to put an order in for more and thought there might be something better.
Cheers

optimum car shampoo works great in both foam lance and in the bucket

senator wrote:

Tim_ wrote:Hey all, is there a car shampoo/wash that is good in a bucket and good in a foam lance? At the moment im using Autoglym Bodywork Shampoo/Conditioner http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/autoglym/bodywork_shampoo_conditioner but have run out so i was going to put an order in for more and thought there might be something better.
Cheers

optimum car shampoo works great in both foam lance and in the bucket

+1

senator wrote:optimum car shampoo works great in both foam lance and in the bucket

Thanks

dle wrote:+1 on the scholl concepts products

would probably recommend using Poorboy's black hole glaze (or white diamond if you have a light coloured car) to fill up some of the finer scratches and swirls that you will probably miss out by using the hand pucks only. then use your favourite sealant to protect the glaze from fading away after a few washes. you could also try CarPro's Hydro2 which is a touch-free silica based sealant, very easy to apply and although i haven't completed my full trial, the initial results are good.

good luck, post some pics of the results

I finally got around to getting the car out into the sun and taking some pics. They are pretty average at 5mp on my phone, reduced so I could post them here. Hand polished and waxed as per my post above. Still going on the Cquartz on some of the black. Very happy with how it turned out given my amateur-ness. Still not happy with the windows. These pics taken 5mths after polishing, and it hasn't been waxed again yet. Thanks to Hamish for answering my questions.

Lookin good mate

Hi,

I recently bought a very low KM MY07 spec B, it is in very good condition on all exterior/interior bar the steering wheel which seems to be dirty/worn. What is the best way to restore it?

thanks

My car isn't in the best condition when it comes to paint, for some reason the bonnet has a purple tinge. Anyways, my car does have a bit of bad touch ups by the previous owner, ones that look like a frozen blob of acrylic paint, along with a hand full of scratches all around; I bought some armourall cream cut/polish, would that be ideal to get rid of all the scratches and kind of level out the touch ups? Note that I will be doing it by hand (because I can't afford a buffer).