club.liberty.asn.au

Has anyone used this?
Arrived at Waxit on this week, but I believe it may have been available in the UK earlier(?)
http://www.waxit.com.au/products/scholl ... mpound-1kg

Unfortunately no reviews on Detail Paradise as yet (other than Waxit's own), but if these claims are true it took out sanding marks with 1 polish ($68) / 1 pad ($25) and then a buff with microfibre cloth:
http://www.detailparadise.com.au/showth ... iminishing
Looks the goods based on the job it did with the 10yr old black Honda Accord Euro (pg 5)

I just bought the Das 6 Pro kit with Menzerna polishes from Care Care Products, but wish I'd known about this first!!!!
More $$$$$

My car has really bad scratches - particularly on the bonnet - from a rubber "claybar" wheel which was used on it about a year ago. They were made worse by me as I took it to a carwash a couple of times where I used the brush as the paint was already damaged (and I'm lazy / time poor). I recently bought the Das 6 Pro kit with Menzerna polishes which I've never used, but received advice from a pro detailer that I probably wouldn't get the scratches out with this kit.

So I decided to visit Waxit today at Tullamarine to get some of this stuff as I had a day off. I got the 6" spider pad, Scholl S20 black and some special cleaning and drying towels @ $130.

I decided to do a test on the driver's side corner of the bonnet, about 60cm x 60cm. Being the impatient type, and as it was getting dark around 5pm and I have no decent lighting in the garage, I didn't have time to wash the car first so did a quick wipe with instant detailer and a quick claybar, followed by a dry then 2 x 3 minute passes with the S20 and new pad.

Gotta say the results are pretty good. PS. I've never polished a car before so I expect it to get better as I learn.

BEFORE



FIRST PASS





SECOND PASS








COMPARISON (LEFT POLISHED / RIGHT UNTOUCHED)

Wow, looks great!!! Can be used on metalic paint?

Yep, Subaru's black (Obsidian Black Pearl) is metallic and where I polished brightened it up

Personally your das6 and menzerna items if used correctly could yield better results.
It's very easy to work with subarus soft/shitty paint

Nice work!

I'm not an expert, but I achieved a similar result but using plain ol' Scratch X (wash, dry, claybar with spray detailer, then Scratch X, then wax and polish). Did two rounds of Scratch X with only light circular buffing and it came up a treat.

That was three years ago. Periodic polishing with a basic spray-on wax and microfibre cloth after washing has kept it looking good without needing to re-do it, though it's probably about time I did another claybar now. As long as you stay on top of polishing say, at least once a month at a minimum, the car will feel smooth each time you wash it and in many cases it will look like a polish is not necessary, but do it anyway. Also keep a chamois in the car so you can pad out light rain when you're out and about before it dries and spots.

The Obsidian Black reflects blue and gold fleck brilliantly in the sun when clean and smooth.

Cheers guys. I guess the point of this is to remove the need for fillers and 2-3 stages of polishing, which might take 8+hrs alone?
Plus, this already had a 2 stage polish with a Concours 900 DA machine about a year ago by a friend who has detailed before and didn't get the scratches out. I'm confident this was a good investment and strongly recommend anyone else with damaged paint try it.
Looking forward to doing the whole car this weekend if I have time and will post some proper pics with my DSLR.

Is it a thing to actually use wet n dry to remove deeper scratches, then polish the dulled clearcoat?

Or is the example in the video just to demonstrate the effectiveness of the polish?

Monkey wrote:Cheers guys. I guess the point of this is to remove the need for fillers and 2-3 stages of polishing, which might take 8+hrs alone?
Plus, this already had a 2 stage polish with a Concours 900 DA machine about a year ago by a friend who has detailed before and didn't get the scratches out. I'm confident this was a good investment and strongly recommend anyone else with damaged paint try it.
Looking forward to doing the whole car this weekend if I have time and will post some proper pics with my DSLR.

You'll find that good polishes don't have fillers. If it's all ready had 2 stages of polish and scratches are still there maybe a wrong pad was used.

Try use 50/50 ipa see if you see the scratches back.

There's a reason polishing with correct technique takes time it's because it actually peels abit of the clear coat to remove scratches anything that removes scratches that takes a short amount of time is usually full of fillers to hide it.

Polishers and Swirl Removal Tips -- /DRIVE CLEAN: https://youtu.be/OgSLEVi_SPg

HyRax wrote:Nice work!

I'm not an expert, but I achieved a similar result but using plain ol' Scratch X (wash, dry, claybar with spray detailer, then Scratch X, then wax and polish). Did two rounds of Scratch X with only light circular buffing and it came up a treat.

That was three years ago. Periodic polishing with a basic spray-on wax and microfibre cloth after washing has kept it looking good without needing to re-do it, though it's probably about time I did another claybar now. As long as you stay on top of polishing say, at least once a month at a minimum, the car will feel smooth each time you wash it and in many cases it will look like a polish is not necessary, but do it anyway. Also keep a chamois in the car so you can pad out light rain when you're out and about before it dries and spots.

The Obsidian Black reflects blue and gold fleck brilliantly in the sun when clean and smooth.

In theory once you polish properly you never have to do it again or very very rarely at best if you look after and wash your ca properly .

Polish takes some clear coat away so if you keep polishing you won't have any left one day. That's why detailers use paint depth gauge to see what they have to work with

spanku690 wrote:

HyRax wrote:Nice work!

I'm not an expert, but I achieved a similar result but using plain ol' Scratch X (wash, dry, claybar with spray detailer, then Scratch X, then wax and polish). Did two rounds of Scratch X with only light circular buffing and it came up a treat.

That was three years ago. Periodic polishing with a basic spray-on wax and microfibre cloth after washing has kept it looking good without needing to re-do it, though it's probably about time I did another claybar now. As long as you stay on top of polishing say, at least once a month at a minimum, the car will feel smooth each time you wash it and in many cases it will look like a polish is not necessary, but do it anyway. Also keep a chamois in the car so you can pad out light rain when you're out and about before it dries and spots.

The Obsidian Black reflects blue and gold fleck brilliantly in the sun when clean and smooth.

Drying your car after driving on the rain with a chamois is very wrong your scratching your car is what your doing


In theory once you polish properly you never have to do it again or very very rarely at best if you look after and wash your ca properly .

Polish takes some clear coat away so if you keep polishing you won't have any left one day. That's why detailers use paint depth gauge to see what they have to work with

With the chamois, I pad the car dry, not wipe it.

I can appreciate that abrasives like ScratchX are removing a small layer of the clear coat (because that's exactly what they are designed to do), and that we use wax to maintain and protect that going forward, but general polishing does the same damage?

I view polish (eg: waxes, FW1, detailer spray, etc) as a product that you put on, allow to dry to a certain point and then when you wipe it down with the microfibre cloth, you are leveling out (polishing) what you spayed on, in effect a temporary filler providing your smoother appearance until it weathers off again.

Genuinely intrigued.

HyRax wrote:With the chamois, I pad the car dry, not wipe it.

I can appreciate that abrasives like ScratchX are removing a small layer of the clear coat (because that's exactly what they are designed to do), and that we use wax to maintain and protect that going forward, but general polishing does the same damage?

I view polish (eg: waxes, FW1, detailer spray, etc) as a product that you put on, allow to dry to a certain point and then when you wipe it down with the microfibre cloth, you are leveling out (polishing) what you spayed on, in effect a temporary filler providing your smoother appearance until it weathers off again.

Genuinely intrigued.

Abrasive like scratche x is full of fillers hiding scratches unless you use a da or similar it dosent fix anything just masks it

You said polish once a month which is a big no no. polish waxes detail spray are all completely different things. You don't allow polish to dry.

Im gathering you think polish is only a temporary fix?

This might help you
964 Turbo S: Polishing Techniques: https://youtu.be/Znl4cfEfah0

spanku690 wrote:Abrasive like scratche x is full of fillers hiding scratches unless you use a da or similar it dosent fix anything just masks it

You said polish once a month which is a big no no. polish waxes detail spray are all completely different things. You don't allow polish to dry.

Im gathering you think polish is only a temporary fix?

Like I said, I'm no expert and am probably not using the correct terminology. I used the term "polish" as being something you spray on and then wipe/buff down as something to maintain the appearance of the car. My original belief is that spray-on product weathers away hence a need to re-apply it periodically.

I think you are referring to the physical action of "polishing" being an abrasive action, which without something in between the car and your cloth I guess would be an abrasive thing to do each month.

As for ScratchX, it does mention on the product that it contains microabrasives in it with the sole purpose of wearing away a small layer of the clearcoat. It doesn't mention anything about fillers (as I would then fully expect all the original scratches to make a very visible appearance again within months if it was just filling them).

spanku690 wrote:This might help you
964 Turbo S: Polishing Techniques: https://youtu.be/Znl4cfEfah0

Will check it out, thanks.

HyRax wrote:

spanku690 wrote:Abrasive like scratche x is full of fillers hiding scratches unless you use a da or similar it dosent fix anything just masks it

You said polish once a month which is a big no no. polish waxes detail spray are all completely different things. You don't allow polish to dry.

Im gathering you think polish is only a temporary fix?

Like I said, I'm no expert and am probably not using the correct terminology. I used the term "polish" as being something you spray on and then wipe/buff down as something to maintain the appearance of the car. My original belief is that spray-on product weathers away hence a need to re-apply it periodically.

I think you are referring to the physical action of "polishing" being an abrasive action, which without something in between the car and your cloth I guess would be an abrasive thing to do each month.

As for ScratchX, it does mention on the product that it contains microabrasives in it with the sole purpose of wearing away a small layer of the clearcoat. It doesn't mention anything about fillers (as I would then fully expect all the original scratches to make a very visible appearance again within months if it was just filling them).

spanku690 wrote:This might help you
964 Turbo S: Polishing Techniques: https://youtu.be/Znl4cfEfah0

Will check it out, thanks.

Yeah I think we're on different pages , check out that link I sent you he's got good videos

Are you applying scatch x by hand? If so you won't take any clear away.. You'll need a da or something similar to actually correct something applying by hand will only mask it .

Whole different subject again paint correction

http://howto.carcareproducts.com.au/200 ... correction