Just thought I would add to the empirical pool of data to help anyone looking for some potentially predictable gains (even though sample size is only 1, so technically a case study
) of switching to a FMIC from a good (I assume-MRT) TMIC set up.The car was initially tuned with a TMIC (MRT) after a vf34 TS convserion with pod filter mounted on the end of the air flow meter housing (hyperflow housing). The FMIC kit (cxracing unit) was fitted a week later together with shifting the pod down inside the guard - the car was just re-dyno'd. Same tuner, same dyno, 23 degrees on TMIC tune, 21 degrees FMIC tune- approx 4 weeks apart.
Between 3500rpm and approx 5000rpm 10awkw improvement with FMIC. 2awkw peak power improvement with the FMIC.
Note the cxracing quality of the ali piping is pretty crap (ie no seal incorporated in flange bolting to turbo=leaks, multiple holes in BOV flange=leaks, flanges not machined flat=leaks, clamps included were cheap). In relation to the 2.0L model, the unit does not come anywhere close to being a bolt up (note they do not claim to fit- I just saw a post-facelift member fit one and thought the differences couldn't be that big
- ignorance is not bliss). For it to fit I had to get all piping cut and shut. I am not sure if sourcing a long narrow IC (eg AVO unit) and then getting custom piping done from the get go would work out cheaper or at least better than going with the cx+rework needed.It cost me about $1100 including cost of kit and re-doing piping +$250 for a new tiny battery, so about $1350 all up and this is based on fitting it myself.
For those interested in fitting one to a 2.0L model, there is a fair bit involved in getting to to fit (at least this unit): had to cut out fog lights, make new mesh surrounds, trim and hammer body panels, modify plastic inner frame behind bumper, bend brake lines, trim bumper, and get a new small battery. The tiny battery is awesome because it allows for the piping to be redirected from between the radiator and engine on std set up to going straight off IC and up inside guard and around battery, which is a much cooler post IC set up and also saved about 40cm off total length of IC piping.
If anyone is interested, let me know and I can put up some photos for reference.
The car is being dyno'd again in a week or so due to an ecu swap, so I am planning to insulate the post IC piping and possibly the CAI as well to see if this makes a measurable difference based on an autosport article I read (claimed 10 degrees coler intake air temp after insulating IC plumbing). I have felt the piping leading in to the throttle body after a 10-minute thrash and it is hot to touch, so is the piping running next to the engine, so I am just curious to see if it records any minute change. More doing this to minimise heat soak during daily driving (I have read all the opinions re air travelling to fast under WOT to make a diff etc, but I kind of think it is pretty stupid to have 1.2m of hot IC piping after the IC!).
So, overall, for possibly a similar or slightly more expensive option if buying everything new, the FMIC option yields significant gains and may be worth the fiddly mods and repeated removal of bumper etc to get it to fit!