TheFirstEskimo wrote:Guessing your car hasn't had a custom tune to take advantage of the mods?
Yes I have, both times.
The old rule of thumb was to subtract your approx 30kw from you Hub power to give you ATW power. This "seems" to reign true in the Gen 4's, but is in no way accurate that's for sure.
Why would you subtract 30kw for atw if power is already measured at the wheel hub?
After all this, I may just be reading my results incorrectly because that seems to be a really low result overall. Would anyone like to take a look at the results?
I would've expected more power with a custom tune & basic mods based on results others have gotten. Could be a simple as the dyno you were on reads low
As I said, what I have stated is an old rule of thumb that in the past has reigned true with the Gen 4's. Heck, I've had people suggest to remove 40kw from the Hub readings! On a hub dyno, you remove the variable of the wheels & tyres. As mentioned in a previous post, things like tyre pressures, rolling radius, etc can effect the ATW's reading thus why your Hub power is different to ATW's power.
As an example, my ute got 343hp (Approx 252kw) at the hubs after a tune & few bits & pieces... It base lined at 290hp, so I was happy with the gain & the car drives a heap better... If I was to apply that "rule of thumb" it would mean I have approx 222kw ATW's, which, based on others results, is about right. However, if I applied the same thing to my base reading, it doesn't make sense as a standard SS Auto produces around 190-200kw ATW's... Use this stuff as a guide
Bottomline is, don't get too rapped up in all these figures. If the car goes / feels better then that is all that matters