club.liberty.asn.au

bigBADbenny wrote:As regards AVCS I need to do the solenoids DIY: it's really easy if you can twist a spanner/bend stuff.

What about break stuff? If so I'm all over it.

Well you sorta look at it and think "how teh fuq?"...

Then you remove a few bits: battery, oil filler neck, SFB, loosen the turbo water tank, bend the driver side fuel rail guard out about 30 degrees and you're done.
Slot those OCV's in...
The guard just bends back into place. No drama. 1 hour tops.

I reckon I could do that no problems Ben. Need your guide up though.

I have removed the oil filler neck before it takes like 5 minutes tops.
SFB = Short fat bit = TMIC to throttle body?

Come over and I'll give you a helping hand!
You ordering solenoids, cleaning yours or recycling ours?
SFB is between the MAF velocity stack/intake tube and the inlet tube.

I'm doing nothing, I just want to see the install guide.

Before getting a serious tune these would also be recommended

- new spark plugs (can cause issues with tactrix logging if old)
-new fuel filter, for consistent and maximised results ($65 from USA)
-new/clean air filter, just not filthy
-battery not ancient (5 years is ancient), can cause logging/tactrix connection problems

If while "write to ecu" flashing the ecu fails - do not turn ignition off, as benny said. Instead try to flash the tune again. If a "test write" flash fails - it's safe to turn ignition off, if needed, as nothing was changed.

Lastly - if your finished tune causes any issues like boost spikes or funny noises or knock showing up on LV - tell your tuner! It's all fixable and should be addressed Asap. Allow for a bit of driving, say a week or two, to judge a tune - problems may appear where before there were none. Hence why dyno+road tunes are superior - they should take a while and address everryyyyyyything.

Sorry if I repeated some stuff benny

alexeiwoody wrote:-battery not ancient (5 years is ancient), can cause logging/tactrix connection problems

What is a good replacement battery? Would prefer one that is black too, hate seeing bright yellow batteries in engine bays.

alexeiwoody wrote:Before getting a serious tune these would also be recommended

- new spark plugs (can cause issues with tactrix logging if old)
-new fuel filter, for consistent and maximised results ($65 from USA)
-new/clean air filter, just not filthy
-battery not ancient (5 years is ancient), can cause logging/tactrix connection problems

If while "write to ecu" flashing the ecu fails - do not turn ignition off, as benny said. Instead try to flash the tune again. If a "test write" flash fails - it's safe to turn ignition off, if needed, as nothing was changed.

Lastly - if your finished tune causes any issues like boost spikes or funny noises or knock showing up on LV - tell your tuner! It's all fixable and should be addressed Asap. Allow for a bit of driving, say a week or two, to judge a tune - problems may appear where before there were none. Hence why dyno+road tunes are superior - they should take a while and address everryyyyyyything.

Sorry if I repeated some stuff benny

It's all gold! THANKS
I want to let the input and advice pile up then add it all to the OP.
I want more feedback on O2 sensors and etc.
And still need to split info for Auto/Manual & Turbo/NA...

bigBADbenny wrote:And still need to split info for NA...

Check your car isn't a Hitachi ECU....

I had a blue racv one - 600 cca - v good size

Upgraded to a Century I think - 620cca - the best/most expensive autobarn had, probably overkill and it's bright yellow lol

The shop staff know their stuff, and a book with recommended batteries for our cars, they have black also for those who's cars always look like they've just come from a photo shoot

Addition: when logging our turbo autos - a 3rd gear pull requires you to go to 170km/hr. Be careful (and check brakes/weather/tires) where you do that shit

chaotic2050 wrote:

bigBADbenny wrote:And still need to split info for NA...

Check your car isn't a Hitachi ECU....

Step 1 for n/a engines - get a forced induction system installed. Very important.

alexeiwoody wrote:

chaotic2050 wrote:

bigBADbenny wrote:And still need to split info for NA...

Check your car isn't a Hitachi ECU....

Step 1 for n/a engines - get a forced induction system installed. Very important.

and I would say step 1 for auto turbo would be to sell up and get a manual. even more important

If an auto gear box is good enough for Pagani and Ferrari - then it's good enough for me

OP updated a little

VERY interesting read Benny and everyone else thats contributed!!
The pre-tune checklist is about 6 months too late for me though
Luckily i fluked most of that list and replaced filters, checked hoses etc. I did make the mistake of doing an oil change before my first tune... whoops!!

Not sure if this is the right thread for it, but youve mentioned a few times Ben that you have personal targets of what you consider safe tune levels. I know you said our tuners should be working to those but if we're doing all this logging and monitoring, we should probably have a basic idea of what some safe levels are. Ive tried searching it a few times and failed, so if there is a thread on this already im sorry but cant find it

EDIT - i just realised this is an old thread and ive got no excuses for not seeing it before my tune!!