Tuning my 07 sti (manual) 0-100?

[bigBADbenny]

Take a peek at the pretune checklist in my sig.
Useful info there.

Its a good idea to keep an eye on your investment, buy or borrow a Tactrix and use it regularly to health check your car with a weekly or fortnightly Learning View and the occasional log.

And Id be looking into getting your ECU unlocked assuming it is and running an open source tune. Once again eg Matt can help you out with that.

It sounds like the car is properly engineered and once you know where its at eg IDC etc, you could use a defcon 1 tune, E85 etc temporarily to do that 1/4 mile time. Or just enjoy it.

[Sean82]

Getting a 1600kg car to go 5sec or under is going to take around 300kw aka $$$ if you want to keep it as a reliable daily. There's also going to be quite a lot of downtime for tuning etc.
a good exhaust, a good tune, and if your budget allows a bigger turbo, like the VF52 that many here have done, will certainly improve things. It might turn ou to be what you are looking for.

My Forester did 0-100 on E85 in 4.2 and on 98 in 4.6. It's a 1650kg car with my lard ass and at least half a tank in it.
This was VF52 and supporting mods on an unopened donk.
It's all in the launch.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

[alexeiwoody]

its not boost that lifts the heads but the cylinder pressure so this is more ignition timing issue.

if your car is been worked on by mrt you might want to rethink this.... imo

getting under 12 I think is going to be more that 250 atm tbh im thinking around 300awkw

Gotya.. thanks for the tip!
Everyone gave me sh*t when MSR tuned mine at 19psi.. good to know.. now i just have to hope that someone as reputable as MSR is aware of the cylinder pressure youre talking about!

MSR builds engines and tunes rally cars...from my experience blokes with that level of knowledge are aware of things beyond what will ever be discussed publicly on this forum.

[KiDo_Tuning]

its not boost that lifts the heads but the cylinder pressure so this is more ignition timing issue.

if your car is been worked on by mrt you might want to rethink this.... imo

getting under 12 I think is going to be more that 250 atm tbh im thinking around 300awkw

Gotya.. thanks for the tip!
Everyone gave me sh*t when MSR tuned mine at 19psi.. good to know.. now i just have to hope that someone as reputable as MSR is aware of the cylinder pressure youre talking about!

MSR builds engines and tunes rally cars...from my experience blokes with that level of knowledge are aware of things beyond what will ever be discussed publicly on this forum.

Anyone who ever did their Mechanical Apprenticeship is aware of it.

Big boost does not mean big cylinder pressure, sometimes letting the turbine hotside flow actually increases VE and they can sometimes make even more torque on less boost though(see Sh4wry's result on 15.4psi peak boost Vs 19psi) giving less cylinder pressure as the exhaust valve can flow air

[KiDo_Tuning]

As for 0-100 times

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQEUFMIANFE
Stock peak 13.2 boost just a lot earlier in the rev range in a stock car

[<GB>]

Anyone who ever did their Mechanical Apprenticeship is aware of it.

Big boost does not mean big cylinder pressure, sometimes letting the turbine hotside flow actually increases VE and they can sometimes make even more torque on less boost though(see Sh4wry's result on 15.4psi peak boost Vs 19psi) giving less cylinder pressure as the exhaust valve can flow air

I don't agree on the apprentices knowing.. most are dumb shits I tell ya!! magazine/internet mechanics that mostly do service work...

when you say turbine hotside flow do you mean the back pressure before the turbo causes the decrease in VE? and a bigger rear housing helps boost earlier and make more power and torque when there is lot of back pressure before the turbo?

[kiwigene]

As for 0-100 times

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQEUFMIANFE
Stock peak 13.2 boost just a lot earlier in the rev range in a stock car

Nice! Those 2nd-3rd-4th gear changes are almost imperceptible!

Using the buttons or is that auto shifting?

[alexeiwoody]

As for 0-100 times

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQEUFMIANFE
Stock peak 13.2 boost just a lot earlier in the rev range in a stock car

Nice! Those 2nd-3rd-4th gear changes are almost imperceptible!

Using the buttons or is that auto shifting?

That would be the auto shifting, as it shifts at the redline every time. Would be near impossible to time that well manually

But he tried manually shifting at the end of 2nd - that's why is skips into 3 and straight into 4. Asin the auto began to shift, he didn't realize clicked to shift and it had to shift again.

3rd gear is good to 170km/hr

[KiDo_Tuning]

Anyone who ever did their Mechanical Apprenticeship is aware of it.

Big boost does not mean big cylinder pressure, sometimes letting the turbine hotside flow actually increases VE and they can sometimes make even more torque on less boost though(see Sh4wry's result on 15.4psi peak boost Vs 19psi) giving less cylinder pressure as the exhaust valve can flow air

I don't agree on the apprentices knowing.. most are dumb shits I tell ya!! magazine/internet mechanics that mostly do service work...

when you say turbine hotside flow do you mean the back pressure before the turbo causes the decrease in VE? and a bigger rear housing helps boost earlier and make more power and torque when there is lot of back pressure before the turbo?

I should rephrase, they are all taught it but it depends on the ones who absorb the information but that is like any industry... the elecricians who dont absorb the information dont remain part of the gene pool for long.

The wastegate flap being held shut trying to raise boost, with a VF exhaust turbine wheel having to push gas out a hole the size of a 50c piece, means your choking up the engine. So by opening the WG flap earlier, your getting more exhaust gas out of the cylinder and letting the turbo FLOW more air into the cylinder and thus pushing exhaust gas out. There is a VE logging profile in RomRaider available, essentially working out where g/rev(airflow past the intake valve) drops off despite more boost. Since most tuners still use full throttle at the end of the pedal travel, it gives a bigger 'hit' of torque as there is minimal flow/lots of turbulence under partial throttle which looks impressive on a dyno since it is the mechanical equivalent of a fat kid jumping onto one end of a seesaw.

[<GB>]

i get ya, so it really happens with small turbos? cause im wondering if my rear housing holding me back but its hard to test the back pressure before the turbo and I also have a evc like dr20t

[Sean82]

As for 0-100 times

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQEUFMIANFE
Stock peak 13.2 boost just a lot earlier in the rev range in a stock car

what turbo? TD04???

[bigBADbenny]

This VE logger profile?
http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=9168

no, this one!
http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopi ... 788#p66788

[KiDo_Tuning]

As for 0-100 times

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQEUFMIANFE
Stock peak 13.2 boost just a lot earlier in the rev range in a stock car

what turbo? TD04???

TD04 Auto XT was faster and since it has more 'in gear' torque with the short shifted first gear running more boost then it bloody well should be quick.

11:1 AFR's at 2g/rev in 1st gear is not good for a low rpm sprint away from the line. No torque but good for fueling up a turbo to get it eventually on to boost to get the car moving...

[KiDo_Tuning]

As for 0-100 times

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQEUFMIANFE
Stock peak 13.2 boost just a lot earlier in the rev range in a stock car

Nice! Those 2nd-3rd-4th gear changes are almost imperceptible!

Using the buttons or is that auto shifting?

That would be the auto shifting, as it shifts at the redline every time. Would be near impossible to time that well manually

But he tried manually shifting at the end of 2nd - that's why is skips into 3 and straight into 4. Asin the auto began to shift, he didn't realize clicked to shift and it had to shift again.

3rd gear is good to 170km/hr

That is manual shift, you can hear the paddle click plus it shows the gears. GenV is easier to get perfect shifts but latest GenIV stuff has perfect shifts nearly every time now.

You could tune the auto to short shift your first gear to eradicate your FLKC you are getting as well

[KiDo_Tuning]

i get ya, so it really happens with small turbos? cause im wondering if my rear housing holding me back but its hard to test the back pressure before the turbo and I also have a evc like dr20t

Mostly but an incorrectly sized turbo of any kind is not good. I know of people removing the front O2 sensor to check pressure by screwing a bung in

Boost creep is a good sign of wrong housing. EVC stabilises it but say you had a boost Tee and had creep on that then you know something is wrong