club.liberty.asn.au

I am stunned by the times you fellows have been achieving with your vehicles. I had a 2006 GT auto tuned by STI which I had a MRT XC kit fitted to and could only achieve 15.1 sec @ 99 mph. Regardless on how I tried to launch the car, I could not improve the 0-60ft times which were around 2.6sec. I stalled the auto up to around 2,000rpm and it still wouldn't launch. The dyno results had the engine producing 176kw@aw. I was hoping for high 13s or 14 sec flat which would have seen me keep the car but after spending $11,000 to achieve the same time as a standard Holden or Falcon six cylinder, I put it back to standard and sold it. How do you get the autos to launch?

the cuple of times im lauched my auto running 200kw. ive dropped it from around 3,500. what turbo did they upgrade you to on the XC kit as 176 is a little on the low side if they have fitted an aftermarket turbo.

Maddog wrote: How do you get the autos to launch?

You don't waste your money at MRT, that's how.

+1 to the above

A stock tb Sti should do at the very worst a low 14 even if driven off the line.

Something was up with your car or your driving if you could only get a fifteen.

Taylor what do you mean drop it at 3500.

I'm hoping you're not doing what it sounds like your doing

Mick

No I am not dropping it from N into D at 3,500. Haha :p.
Im on the brakes until I'm ready, then flattening the right foot.
Have only done it a cuple of times to see how the car reacts, That's not how I drive.

Well thank God for that.

I also highly doubt you're getting to 3500 before take off with a stock convertor.

The best I've ever done is 3100 and that was extremely hard to do

Oh really? Whys that? Mine goes higher than 3,500. Is it not meant to?
Mine begins to slow alot around 3,200 and slowly goes up from there.
Does that mean mines busted?

word on the wire is that S&J use a turbo from an STI WRX to drop it into the Liberty's as a "custom turbo solution". They just change something on it so it fits in the Libs. S&J is a rip, I got quoted about 10K for the XC kit.

t.renshaw34 wrote:Oh really? Whys that? Mine goes higher than 3,500. Is it not meant to?
Mine begins to slow alot around 3,200 and slowly goes up from there.
Does that mean mines busted?

No it's just physically impossible. The lock up happens at 3200 rpm and unless u have extremely strong left leg clamping force I don't see how you can be tramping that brake pedal hard enough to keep it from moving at 3500rpm!

At the risk of sounding like a douche, I leg press 450kg and still can't hold the pedal hard enough to launch later than 3100!

And the short answer to whether your box is stuffed is probably not but if you keep doing that without a trans cooler it will be !

Mick

I was thinking about going to the Willowbank T'n'T tomorrow night, but it might be a bit too hot. Forecast is for a min of 22, if it was anything like last night forget it. I didn't see the temp gauge drop below 28 degrees cruising around last night.
Had the car on the dyno again yesterday, made about 10 kw more at the wheels with the same power curve, feels a lot more potent on my private test track.

Oh, and Dr20t, if you can leg press 450kgs you should be able to sprint the 1/4 mile in about the same time as your car.

The MRT XC kit came with a VF24 Turbo which MRT say is slightly modified. I had plenty of problems with the initial installation which was carried out by Mercury Motorsport. The vehicle had nothing until 4,000rpm and would change down 2 gears at every slight raise on the highway. I took it back and told them about the performance but they said they just installed the kit go and see MRT. I got intouch with MRT and told them the story and they said I had to get it looked at by Mercury. To shorten the story, I got no where with either. I spoke to Brett Middleton at MRT as Mercury was their Brisbane agent but still got nowhere. I finally took it to Michael Gavin @ OPMsport in Toowoomba and he was brilliant. a quick look identified that the actuator rod on the turbo was jammed and the actuator was stuffed. these were changed and I finally had a car that had some power down at 2,000rpm. I tried going back to the standard turbo for a while and looked at modifying the auto but it was all too expensive so I sold it and bought a BMW335, installed a Vishnu procede for $1,000 and it run 12.9sec in street trim. A few more mods later and it is now doing 12.4 sec. All up I have spent half the money on the mods on the BMW compared with what was spent on the Subaru.

dr20t wrote:

t.renshaw34 wrote:Oh really? Whys that? Mine goes higher than 3,500. Is it not meant to?
Mine begins to slow alot around 3,200 and slowly goes up from there.
Does that mean mines busted?

No it's just physically impossible. The lock up happens at 3200 rpm and unless u have extremely strong left leg clamping force I don't see how you can be tramping that brake pedal hard enough to keep it from moving at 3500rpm!

At the risk of sounding like a douche, I leg press 450kg and still can't hold the pedal hard enough to launch later than 3100!

And the short answer to whether your box is stuffed is probably not but if you keep doing that without a trans cooler it will be !

Mick

Have to agree with Mick on this one, I too have tried stalling it up a few times to do 0-100, and whilst i've never really totally focused on the tacho i'm pretty sure i can't hold it beyond 3000, I find she moves just before the neddle hits 3000rpm.

On another note I haven't done a qtr mile run but my 0-100 times according to my ecu datascan have been between 5.7 - 5.9 secs depending on how well I launch

Update on the 5eat stall convertor - this is taken from the service manual:

I have skipped the first 7 steps - but this is essentially the procedure to test your stall convertor lock up. Please note that this may be detrimental to your box so please only try this at your own risk


Move the manual linkage to ensure it operates
properly, and then set “2nd on manual mode”.
9) While forcibly depressing the foot brake pedal,
gradually depress the accelerator pedal until the
engine operates at full throttle.
10) When the engine speed is stabilized, quickly
record that speed and release the accelerator pedal.
11) Shift the select lever to “N” range, and cool
down the engine by idling it for more than one
minute.
12) Perform the procedure for “R” range in the
same way as “2nd on manual mode”.
NOTE:
• Do not continue the stall test for MORE THAN
FIVE SECONDS at a time (from fully closed throttle
to fully open throttle until stall speed reading). Engine
oil and ATF to deteriorate and the clutch and
brake to be adversely affected.
• Be sure to cool down the engine for at least one
minute with the select lever set in “P” or “N” range
and with the idle speed lower than 1,200 rpm after
performing stall test.
• If the stall speed is higher than the specified
range, attempt to finish the stall test in as short a
time as possible, in order to prevent the automatic
transmission from sustaining damage.
Stall speed (at sea level):
TURBO MODEL
3,100 — 3,500 rpm
NON-TURBO MODEL
2,400 — 2,800 rpm

How much can the standard auto take before it begins to destroy itself. Does anyone know of any software changes that can be made to quicken up the shift changes.

14.6 stock manual 3.0rb