Melbourne meet - coming down from nsw on 28th August

Re: Melbourne meet - coming down from nsw on 28th August

Postby bosc0 » Thu Sep 12, 2013 6:33 am

I am in like Flynn.
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Re: Melbourne meet - coming down from nsw on 28th August

Postby MH3.0R » Thu Sep 12, 2013 6:45 pm

Ok, I will book this one into my calendar.
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Re: Melbourne meet - coming down from nsw on 28th August

Postby bass_straitener » Wed Oct 02, 2013 9:28 pm

dr20t wrote:So I'm back down in Mexico on 2nd October and 17th if you guys are keen for anther catch up?


Did anything get arranged or happen here?
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Re: Melbourne meet - coming down from nsw on 28th August

Postby bosc0 » Thu Oct 03, 2013 6:24 am

I wondered where you were last night Bruce. So did Mindy at Bar20.
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Re: Melbourne meet - coming down from nsw on 28th August

Postby bass_straitener » Thu Oct 03, 2013 7:35 am

bosc0 wrote:I wondered where you were last night Bruce. So did Mindy at Bar20.


I was with Dan picking up my car. :D

https://www.facebook.com/DansGarageDetailing
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Re: Melbourne meet - coming down from nsw on 28th August

Postby C-Shell » Thu Oct 03, 2013 4:34 pm

bass_straitener wrote:
bosc0 wrote:I wondered where you were last night Bruce. So did Mindy at Bar20.


I was with Dan picking up my car. :D

https://www.facebook.com/DansGarageDetailing


:O super jealous! How did it come up?
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Re: Melbourne meet - coming down from nsw on 28th August

Postby bass_straitener » Thu Oct 03, 2013 4:44 pm

C-Shell wrote:
:O super jealous! How did it come up?


Turned out really well. Considering the paint is original and 23 years old I'm impressed by both the car's paint quality and Dan's great work.

There's about 50 pics showing before and after on Dan's Facebook site but here's a few I took in the driveway this morning before work. Just some iPhone pics for the guys at work.
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Re: Melbourne meet - coming down from nsw on 28th August

Postby Monkey » Thu Oct 03, 2013 5:06 pm

Came up really nice - I checked out the FB links.
Approx cost of detail?
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Re: Melbourne meet - coming down from nsw on 28th August

Postby bass_straitener » Thu Oct 03, 2013 5:52 pm

Monkey wrote:Came up really nice - I checked out the FB links.
Approx cost of detail?


Thanks David.

Dan definitely knows his stuff.

I've sent you a PM with regards cost.
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Re: Melbourne meet - coming down from nsw on 28th August

Postby jakey » Thu Oct 03, 2013 6:42 pm

bass_straitener wrote:
Monkey wrote:Came up really nice - I checked out the FB links.
Approx cost of detail?


Thanks David.

Dan definitely knows his stuff.

I've sent you a PM with regards cost.



Shoot him an e-mail too he will explain everything in great 'detail'. :lol:

dansgaragedetailing@gmail.com

EDIT: to save you getting the same response:

DAN wrote:My first recommendation would be to undergo a minimum full day external detail to get the car to the point where it becomes a simple job to maintain from then on. This involves decontaminating the clear coat and then removing/minimising existing paint defects (swirls/water marks/bird poo etchings/holograms etc). Restoring a nice smooth surface, and effectively wiping the slate clean (as much as possible). It doesn't matter if it's a new car as many new cars can have a lot of surface contamination from rail travel and also from sitting in factory yards etc.

The general process is for this is:

1) Wash/Decontamination Stage

- Wash to remove prior waxes/polishes -Decontamination of surface. Removal of larger ferrous particles stuck to the paint and wheels (brake dust etc) - Claybar to remove remainder of smaller ferrous and non-ferrous surface contaminants

This step makes the paint surface nice and smooth again.

2) Paint Correction Stage

- Taping up of plastics/rubber to protect from polish/compound staining (window surrounds etc). Inspection of now-decontaminated surface for swirling/scratching. - Paint Correction stage. This will take several hours (by far the bulk of time spent) and can involve both rotary and Dual Action (DA) polishers with a combination of different pads and compounds to remove/minimise swirls, scratches and remove holograms in clear coat/paintwork.

This step restores clarity to the paint surface.

3) Glaze

- Inspection of removed swirls/scratches

- Application of glaze and buff

This step enhances clarity and brings out the depth in the paint

4) Wax

- Removal of tape from surrounds. Final inspection before wax - Application of wax layer and finishing polish (by hand) - Final inspection

This step enhances the gloss and slickness of the paint.

This is Stage 1. The cost for this is $XXX, and a full day (drop off to my place in Surrey Hills @ 8:30am. Pickup roughly 5-6pm same day).

At that point, you can leave it at that and continue to maintain the car from there, or you can add paint protection on top of this. I can provide two options in terms of this.

Option 1 (Sealant-Based Paint Protection), includes all of the above plus the following which goes down prior to the wax layer:

- Initial layer of paint protection compound. Leave to cure/bond for min 8hrs - Second layer of paint protection compound. Leave to cure again for min 6hrs - Buff off, then proceed to step 4

This is an additional day (two days total) and an additional $XXX ($XXX total)

Option 2 (Ceramic Polymer based Paint Protection - Opti-Coat), includes all of Stage 1 plus the following instead of the polish and wax layers:

- Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) wipe down to remove any polish oils remaining on the paint surface as a result of the paint correction process

- Demineralised water wipe down to remove any residue left by the IPA. This leave a crystal clear paint surface, allowing for both maximum clarity and maximum opportunity for the Ceramic Polymer to bond with the paintwork

- Application of Ceramic Polymer layer - Inspecting finish and leveling out any high spots in the surface of the Ceramic Polymer - Allow to bond and cure overnight

This is two days total and $XXX

In terms of which option to go for, it’s dependent on what sort of flexibility you’re after and how you plan to look after your car

For the Stage 1 only, you rely on the wax to provide your clear coat protection as well as your gloss. This basically means that you have to commit to a fairly strict regimen of re-applying the wax layer every month in order to maintain the protective layer (most waxes only have a life of about 1 month max once applied to the car. When water stops beading, you know the wax is gone and the clear coat is unprotected). If you’re someone who washes your own car once a week or so and doesn’t have any issue with applying a wax once a month, then you could get away with this option.

Paint Protection on top of this gives you additional protection.

For the Option 1 Paint Protection (Sealant-based), the wax changes from a protectant AND gloss role, to mainly just a gloss role. Meaning that you can be more flexible with your wax regime as you rely on the paint protection to provide your protectant layer and the wax is mainly there to provide extra gloss when you want it. If the wax wears off, you don’t have to rush to put it back on as the paint protection is there to protect the clear coat. Sealant-based Paint protection on its own will generally last 6-12 months depending on how the car is washed, and how it’s stored etc. It will then eventually wear away, sacrificing itself to protect your clear coat until it requires re-application.

The Option 2 Paint Protection (Ceramic Polymer), adds a semi-permanent protection layer to the car's paint/clearcoat. It's much stronger than typical clearcoat, and resists etching (bird poo, acid rain etc), and also swirl marks better than the standard factory clear coat. It's not indestructible, however it's lifespan is generally 3 years+ if correctly cared for. This style of paint protection isn't designed as a sacrificial layer like the Sealant based paint protection is. It is meant to provide a semi-permanent layer that resists this sort of damage. So it won’t dissipate after 8-12 months and require re-application like the Sealant Based paint protection does.

I also can ceramic polymer coat wheels. This makes them easier to wash, with brake dust much less likely to etch into the wheel's clear coat and require heavy polishing to remove. 95% of caked on brake dust is removed with a high pressure hose. The remainder is easily disposed of with a light wash with a mitt or sponge. Like the car's paint surface, the wheels display a freshly waxed look when washed and dried. Costs associated with this are $XXX per wheel for wheel faces only. Or, if the wheels are supplied to me off the car, I can coat the faces and inner barrels for $XX per wheel.

Full write-ups on some of my detailing work is here:
http://www.detailparadise.com.au/forumd ... -Detailing


With regard to available dates, my weekend dates are currently fairly heavily booked until the end of August, however I am now able to offer Mon/Tues appointments which can be organised much earlier if you wanted.

Let me know if you want any further info or would like to look at booking a date etc.

Regards,


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Re: Melbourne meet - coming down from nsw on 28th August

Postby MH3.0R » Thu Oct 03, 2013 8:22 pm

Wow !!! Talk about off topic! This is about as far as you can go left of the topic.... :offtopic:
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Re: Melbourne meet - coming down from nsw on 28th August

Postby bosc0 » Fri Oct 04, 2013 6:43 am

MH3.0R wrote:Wow !!! Talk about off topic! This is about as far as you can go left of the topic.... :offtopic:


What if i were to say something like..... the make up artist in the new Smurfs movie owns a crosseyed mouse.
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Re: Melbourne meet - coming down from nsw on 28th August

Postby dr20t » Fri Oct 04, 2013 12:20 pm

Does the mouse put out
Addicted to corn juice....

My FrankenStien build thread here: viewtopic.php?t=14137
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Re: Melbourne meet - coming down from nsw on 28th August

Postby bosc0 » Fri Oct 04, 2013 12:53 pm

Do you know a mouse that doesn't?
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Re: Melbourne meet - coming down from nsw on 28th August

Postby bass_straitener » Fri Oct 04, 2013 2:41 pm

bosc0 wrote:Do you know a mouse that doesn't?


Maybe DangerMouse as he did have a sidekick Penfold who most viewers thought was his mole. Though in fact he was a hamster. Sad really....
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