club.liberty.asn.au

after all my tracing efforts i have tracked my power loses down to a timing issue, thanks to adam and his trusty pc

any one have any idea's on why

im running 98 BP ult

the Timing is getting retarted to the point where acceleration is really effected

only seems to happen when boost starts to climb and it irons its self out at around 5-6k RPM

My next things to change are Plugs and fuel filter, thou i dont think this will help much , but the old saying is back to the basics when things get tuff.

also TBELT is due in 20k

car has a ECUWREK tune

Is the timing belt all lined up?

how was it before the tune, maybe they've added too much timing, or taken away too much.

Knock sensor. All day.

If the timing belt was out more than a few teeth a) car wont start due to conflict from cam/crank sensors and b) the engine would explode.

To change the sensor you will need a 1/4 drive socket set with a wobble socket. And a hell of alot of patience.

If the sensor is faulty, it WILL pull timing when the Wellington is into it.

Knock sensors log codes though and the engine light would illuminate. I've never seen one become faulty without an engine light.

However, they do need changing as often as the engine oil with Subaru's. Stupid things.

The engine won't 'explode' if the belt was out. It would have trouble starting and it'd run like a dog's arse.

If the belt was out more than 3 teeth on a B4, it would explode.

I've had experience with a faulty knock sensor not showing codes.

If it were out 3 teeth it wouldn't start, it'd be way too far off. I was talking as if it were 1 tooth out.

Knock sensor, really? That's interesting... Did it at least have a history code?

Obviously it wouldnt start if it was 3 teeth out, but if you were on the go and for some reason it slipped more than 2 its game over.

The knock sensor will store a hard fault but i have had first hand experience where the CEL would only come on briefly and not often. Took me a while to diagnose it for the same reason. But when i checked the hard faults it showed up code 22 which is knock sensor. I changed it and hey presto stopped pulling timing like a hooker.

In murfb4's case, i would say there wouldnt be much else apart from something in the tune reacting to a change, timing belt skipping a tooth possibly or the knock sensor kicking the bucket.

Murf, if you have some time and some mechanical skills, try re-fitting the timing belt. It seems very daunting but its actually quite simple, that way you can rule that one out. Its due anyway?

Do that and the knock sensor and see what you come up with, it would be logical to try change the sensor first though.

cars not reading any knock in the logs or pulling any codes,

it just pulls timing hard to about 4500k then hey presto back comes the livily little 2.0 and where off

accelerating feels like a stutter even to the point where u think theres no turbo action happening , boost gauge is reading a solid 16psi , i spoke to the guy who had the car previously to me , and he had no timing or surging issues , so he wasnt any help , the MRT tune was a full custom tune down in 2006 , tunes probebly not my issue

at the moment i can chew 1/4 of a tank in 40kms

i did the plugs yesterday , cleaned the MAP , MAF sensors , changed a couple of shitty vac hoses under the intercooler , still pulling timing ,

my next point of aim is fuel , im running BP ult 98 , and have a walbro pump in her her belly, going to install a Wideband and see if the injectors are doing there job, and fuel pressures

there has to be a completely simply reason for it to run like a cortina

If you can find someone with a Tactrix cable and run a log it will give you a lot more information about what is going on with your timing.

I was checking out those tactrix cables, they any good?

Just change the knock sensor. If its faulty it will do exactly as you have described.

Either that or your car has MRT aids.

loged the car with a tactrix , not showing why the timing is being pulled , may need dealer attention with a 4 gas and subaru diag tool ,

yeah i am suspecting a KNOCK sensor but on the ej20tt the lil barstad right under a shed load of pipes ,

Man up!

Just get a 1/4" drive socket set with a wobble extension and go to town.

If i can do it, anyone can!

They are in a tight spot on B4s.

However it is much more cost effective if you do that rather than get a dealership to diagnose and replace it.

wouldnt it be registering knock on romraider while the timing is being pulled?
im keen to change it but , if the problem presists its anouther 100 bucks , dealership will only be diagnosing not fixing, i can do most things my self , but im to the point where i spend 2 hours changing the knock senor and it doesnt fix i have to dick around for anouther 2 hours finding

i had one guy suggest my injectors might not be atomising the fuel correctly and may need changing,